If you shorten it on the PCB side, make sure to secure the cord so that when it’s tugged, it is not pulling directly on the soldered connections to the PCB. Shortening on the PCB side would remove the stress relief rubber that secures the cable to the controller casing. Do something like hot glue the cable somewhere upstream of the solder joints, and tie a knot in the cable (just inside the controller casing) to prevent cable tugs from stressing the solder joints.
You could also shorten in the middle of the cable and use some heat-shrink tubing to cover the gap, or cut off the USB plug and replace it with a new connector and hood (but then you lose the breakaway bit). I don’t know how viable it is to disassemble the breakaway end and resolder there.
Edit: Ha, I was basing this on shortening the cord for the controller itself, not using the PCB in something else. Nevermind.
Why exactly do you need to shorten this cord?
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I just ordered a case from B15 and im using one of those jacks neuterik (probably spelt wrong) on the back of the case so I dont nee all that cord rolled up in the case. So I wont need the breakaway end. There is a pic below of how I need the cable to end up as.
Is it easy to replace the end ? Im really worried about re-soldering it to the board as those points are tiny, I had tried to repair a pbc that the cord had pulled of the board and I ended up wrecking the pcb.
Maybe the doing the connection in the middle would be easiest?
I guess I could use a barrier strip would be really easy to, that would work?
Oh, I see what you mean. In that case I’d just desolder the MadCatz cable from the PCB and save it for another purpose, and take a short pre-made USB cable, cut it to the desired length, and solder it on.
If you’re particularly worried about soldering to the PCB, you could always just roll up the cable and tie it inside. I wouldn’t say it’s much easier to solder the wires back together when cutting in the middle, or putting on a new USB connector, but at least you’d get a second chance to try again I suppose.
I have a prehacked PS1 DS (late version) PCB.
I chaining my ground around to all of the buttons and I have a question about the ground on the joystick.
*****Im using a Sanwa JLF and I need to know if I only need to connect a ground chain to the ground on the wireharness(black wire) or do I need to run a ground to each of the directions?
Someone told me I needed a ground for each of my microswitches , but that didnt seem right. Thats where my confusion is coming from.
All of the microswitches do need to be grounded, but if you have the version of the JLF that has a harness, they are already grounded together, and you only need to connect the black wire from the wire harness to PCB ground.
I need a pcb for xbox 360 all buttons and triggers . Can anyone recommend a pad , besides the madcatz fightpads? The only 1 I know is the 4716 pcb but I dont want to do all that crap to get the triggers to work. I ordered a fight-pad but it has not shown up, so I want to go buy one tomorrow .
Does anyone know if the new Mortal Kombat sticks have common ground boards? I’ve been trying to figure it out for quite some time now, and I’d like to know so that I can choose which version to buy. Any help would be appreciated.
I like this pad because it has a small pcb, and enough buttons (10), and it’s so cheap.
Does any one know if this pad has a single ground for directions?
Can any one post a photo of its pcb?
That’s all. Sorry about my english.
I’ll be waiting for answers.
Ok have a few questions bout an xbox360 padhack so here goes
I have the newer 2009 madcatz xbox 360 controller, can I use the 2008 diagram?
On a late wired MS 360 pad, I only heed one wire going to the common and it daisy chains to the
other like colored neutrals, right?
If the last statement is correct what is the ground for?
If I can use it it doesn’t show points for the triggers where r they?
The only way to get the triggers to work is with a resistor right? if not how do I do it?
Is there a tutorial on how to wire the analogs to work? If so where I’ve looked but cant find one?
what would be the easiest PCB to padhack?
I have been looking at this thread for over an hour now, and think I can answer some of these questions but would like some conformation on these things. Thanks everybody.
You will have to do trigger inversion to get the analogs to work. Look for the Sticky thread"Info, Tutorials, read here first" for upas’s tutorial.
It is worth the extra $25 to just use a Madcatz Fightpad than to try to track down the proper IC invertor chip and solder a prototype board for trigger inversion. Sometimes even if you do it right, the analogs randomly trigger anyways.
Where can i get a tutorial on taking the SF4 fight pad PCB and installing a USB feed through so i can have a detachable cable? Working with a XB360 pad. Should i just take the plunge and get a ChimpSMD from Lizard Lick?
Can anybody tell me if there is an alternate solder point for the guide button on a madcatz fightpad? The reason I ask is when I soldered mine it pulled of and took some of the trace , I soldered it to the normal point on the front aswell as the little dot right above that it wont seem to work anywhere. Is there a place to do the guide button from the back? I need my guide button to send replays to all the dummies that message me after I kick them when thier connection drops to one bar, lol
I don’t know how useful this would be, but have you tried hooking your pad up to your PC and then testing by touching your ground wire to any points that you can trace back to the guide button? I was using Windows 7 and a PDP pad and mapped out my controller that way. I don’t recall which button was the guide, but I think it was button 9 or 11. I can check once I get home if you’re going to try that method, assuming the pad you’re using is a common ground pad.
