threi, check out this thread. It’s a thread on dual pcbs and it should answer most of your questions.
The reason the power needs to be shared is so that one controller acknowledges the other is off. Otherwise the controllers would interfere with each other. Something like that.
Hi everyone,
I was just poking around my new PS3 TE getting ready to do a dual mod on it when I noticed this empty spot for a chip on the pcb. It’s exactly the same size as those xbox chips found on madcatz 360 pads. Kinda makes you wonder about it.
It’s on top near the middle of the pcb.
http://www.defconsoft.co.uk/hardware/controllers/asciiware-arcade-stick/
If anybody has this stick, can you please identify what the directionals are on it. I tore out the wiring to the switches a long time ago. Plus the kanji indicates that it was colors, so I don’t know what the directionals are.
hey guys, i’m doing my first padhack and i wanted to make sure i can link the grounds from buttons and joystick to the one ground on the PSOne Dual Shock M PCB (http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram6.jpg) using the solderless method. If so, what would be the best way to link the 3 wires together? thanks for helping a noob
So I was wondering, I hear the Xbox 360’s Arcade Gamestick is really easy to use for dual-modding, since the triggers are actual buttons on it, and thus it’s real simple to get the trigger button functions without the need for a trigger hack.
I’m talking about this thing: http://www.amazon.com/Madcatz-Arcade-GameStick-Xbox-360/dp/B000MCHETQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=videogames&qid=1265244155&sr=8-1
Does anyone know if this thing is easy to work with? Easier than a standard pad? Would it fit in a stick the same way as a pad’s PCB, space-wise? Thanks in advance.
I hacked one of those last week as my second ever project (first was the classic controller for Wii), and it was pretty easy to hack. The pads to solder to are relatively big, and like you said, you don’t have to do as much with the triggers as you do on normal pads. My biggest problem was removing the analog stick housing from the pcb. I’m not good enough with the braid yet to remove enough solder to take the thing off, so I just dremeled off as much as I could and left the rest on.
Is this stick realistically moddable? I’ve seen someone in my area selling it on craigslist for cheap.
I need some help, guys.
Back in the days Jesster posted a small diagram for the Wii classic controller which reverses the L- and R-triggers and make them work for a custom stick.
Sadly as you can see in his post from yesteryear his photocucket account is no longer active and the picture therefor gone for the time being.
Does anyone still have that diagram? Or even better: a small picture (photo) of said solution?
After so much time I finally have the free time I needed to start making my custom stick. I don’t want that time to be wasted for nothing 
I probably should have posted this in here instead of new thread.
Hi.
Totally noobish question, that may well be answered in here somewhere, but the thread’s 150 pages long!!
A USB cable has 4 internal wires, right?
In which case, can I simply snip the USB plug from a cable and wire it to a female 4 pin DIN chasis mount? Obviously with the intention of snipping one plug of the USB cable that connects the stick to the computer/PS3 and wire it to a 4 pin DIN plug…
Cheers for your time
EDIT: For clarity…
Cthulhu -> USB cable wired to 4 pin DIN chassis mount ->USB with one end wired to a 4 pin DIN plug -> PC/PS3
No they are not in my opinion feasibly moddable. The base is about an inch thick, the buttons holes are not 30mm. It would be easier to just make a case than to mod that.
That can work fine.
Thank you very much, jdm 
No. The PCB is pretty good though. I already found the directionals through trial and error. But no, it’s not worth modding it because everything in it is slanted. Aside from that, I thought it was uncomfortable to play on.
is the reason that i can only find reference to 1 or two people who have tried dual modding with a gamecube controller (without much useful info either, apart from slagcoin website and the help from nice fellow SRK’rs) because in fact the controller does not have a common ground. Mine is hooked up fine, but the ground for L R and Z is different to that of the direction and the buttons, when linked up, none of the buttons work…any ideas, help, links or flames, fuk it ill take all
I’ve just mod a V3 with a madcatz 4716, i chopped of the mic jack on it.
Everything is working fine except the Xbox thinks there’s a mic on the stick, so i can’t map my wireless mic to player 1.
what can i do to neutralize this ?
thanks 
WHOOPS, I guess you can. Read this excellent post:
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=113675&p=8349614&viewfull=1#post8349614
so basically, you have to keep it on the board no matter what right ?
aw damn.
EDIT: thanks for the quick answer.
Toodles! if you could give me one gem of wisdom…can you tell me off the top of your head if the gamecube controller is common ground. i think L R and Z are on a different ground. the pink one on slagcoins diagram…im not sure i can hook them up with the other buttons on my SE sharing the same ground…thanking u in advance
ps my directions and A B Y X are all hooked up and working.
