The agetec pcbs or the madcatz pcbs are the way to go.
Any signal diagrams available? (like the ones on slagcoin)
For the Agetec:
http://www.instructables.com/id/SBWDXI0F54HJ3MQ/
For the madcatz I believe it looks very similar to the official. Should be easy to figure out.
Thank you!
luckyday thank you for the help, everything went pretty smooth, i just finished up soldering my first pad hack and now iâm feeling greedy and want to try the triggers. any chance you could help me out by answer a few more questions.
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set triggers to neutral, what does this mean? slagcoin has it on his diagram and i have no clue what it means or how to do it?
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LC and RC? is this left center and right center? do i need these, my guess is that theyâre the L thumbstick button, and R thumbstick button. but iâm pulling that out of my ass.
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since LT, and RT donât have to be inverted can i just wire it like so
again thanks for your help.
I know the PS3 madcatz pads are to be avoided but how bad quality are they? Do the boards just outright fail? Are they non-common? I just wanna see if it is at all possbile to work with. They are a dime a dozen at the local frys. With the Ctulu no longer available assembled the options for a PS3 pcb just got much more difficult.
It means to rotate the little wheels in the trigger pots so that theyâre in the neutral position, so the controller doesnât think theyâre being pressed.
And yeah, it should work wiring it that way.
luckyday once again thank you, you were very helpful and i donât think i would of been able to do this padhack with out your help. i just have one last question the rumble motors can i just snip them? or should i leave them? and if i do snip do i have to do anything with them or can i just leave the wires cut and hanging from the board?
once again thanks for your help.
Yeah, just snip the wires.
The Cthulhu is still available assembled, itâs no longer available UN-assembled now.
luckday once again, thank you.
woops i meant unassembled, iâd rather not sped $20 extra when i know how to solder.
âŚjust wanted to drop a thank you into this thread for all the info & contributors here and many and multiple thanks to slagcoin and RDC @ xboxscene for the amazing tutorials/info/diagrams. :smokin:
FINALLY got my hacking groove, last 360 wireless pad knocked out in no time with a flawless victory. 
Pics to come when I get the artworks finishedâŚ:rock:
Can anyone post some pictures of psx and xbox 360 pcbs with their analog sticks removed and replaced with resistors? I canât visualize what to do in slagcoinâs site.
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=471958
RDC posted that pic strictly as an example, the resistors should be 10K though.
My desoldering skills were not that great however and I fucked up 2 pads removing the analog sticks, triggers werenât so bad since there are just 3 points to desolder per side unlike the 14 per side for the analog.
you need a solder sucker⌠the analog sticks shouldnt be that hard to remove
Honestly, I donât see the point of removing the analog sticks. Your buttons are thicker than the total height of the PCB and analog sticks. So if you have enough space for buttons, you should have enough space for the analog sticks.
Only time Iâve seen it useful is when someone bent the pins of the switches on the back of the buttons to create and ultra slim case.
Thanks for the pictures versis addict. Modding an Hori Ex 2 for a friend. His pcb is busted so I replaced it with an 360 pcb so I need to make room for a proper fit.
hey all, great thread.
Iâm guessing my TE stick is on itâs way out soon if some of the issues it has keeps up. What would be a good 360 controller to purchase thatâs common ground? Should I look for the madcatz 4716 (gamestop version?) or will any madcatz pos do? lol
are you sure? Everything I have read tells me i need a hex inverter. Or do you only need it to make everything CG (which I need as I am making a dual PCB stick)?