Hey outk@sT ive been using slagcoin, but theres little/no info on the trigger problem i have 
ive seen various posts about using transistor and such, but i really need a STOP BEING AN IDIOT DO THIS! guide
Dude, I can relate⌠seriously.
What problem are you having with the triggers?
I know you have to wire in a resistor to fool the xbox into thinking that the trigger is not active, but once you do that, you can wire it up just like all the other buttons.
i understand that LC LT and RC RT are to do with the triggers. and the triggers still use the purple grounds, one each i believe. but i dont know where the resistor goes with regards to the c and t points.
i believe it would go something likeâŚ
At least i think thats how it is, but im not 100% sure on the resistor, or if the triggers need to be left on, or how you set them to neutral?
Is setting a trigger to neutral just hot glueing it in place so it cant move and then by passing it with the resistor setup?
WHO KNOWS, find out next time on âWhen Outk@st posts!â
I donât think the post you linked is the same as FutureRyanâs pad since he has a xbox360 pad and you link him to a xbox1 pad. I think what you are looking for is hereâŚ
http://www.joystickvault.com/showphoto.php?photo=451&cat=507
Bad news is that its not common ground pad.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/SFAC%20Mod/3.jpg
"Actual soldering for the LT and RT spots is on the opposite side of the board. If youâre going to attach an extra button to duplicate one of the Triggers, you use LT1 and LT2, or RT1 and RT2 respectively. The reason LT3/RT3 is there and marked is ONLY for those making an Arcade stick or wishing to remove the Triggers from the board for whatever reason. If the Trigger IS removed a 10k Resistor MUST be installed from LT1 to LT3 or RT1 to RT3. Any common variety 10k 1/4w will do just fine. This is to keep the controller âthinkingâ that a Trigger is installed and âoffâ, not pulled. Removing it without installing the 10k Resistor will cause it to act up in some cases, the new button either will not work or will not return to the âoffâ posistion when released. Pressing the new button youâre installing between 1 and 2 will duplicate the âonâ, pulled effect of the Trigger. Also note that you WILL loose the Analog function on the new Trigger button, it will either be on or off, no middle ground like you can achieve by pulling the Trigger partly in. This does not change the way the Trigger acts if itâs left installed, it will still be Analog when you use it."
Quoted directly from:http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=581887
lol, title of that thread was " Pelican Universal pcb + Xbox 360 pcb" - my bad.
So i can make a button between RT 1 and RT 2, completely ignore rt3. and glue my triggers and leave them on.
no extra resistors or any extra shit, they just need to have their own grounds which are on the board anyway?
:EDIT:
no wait hold on, that says making a button between 1 and 2? no ground needed? just a wire from each to the button which will join the points?
SUPER EDIT:
I THINK I FINALLY UNDERSTAND THE DIAGRAM ON SLAGCOIN
The RC and LC are right click and left click, THOSE MUST BE THE THUMB CLICKS !!
the RT and LT are the trigger points that need to be linked to the ground to make a circuit⌠maybe?
i mean look at the diagram, LT and RT match up with the points at RT1 and LT1 on the diagram you showed, the text states the solder points are on the other side of the board⌠which is exactly right for the RT1 and LT1, and they link (colour coded) to the grounds. Im going to test this when i crawl out of bed tomorrow, its 5:25 am here now so im off to bed⌠lest i pop the 360 pad open and give this a go in windows?
now youâre confusing the hell outta meâŚ
LC and RC are the input you get when you depress the analog sticks, yes.
right problem solved
looking at the slag coin diagram. it really is as simple as it looks.
looking at the front of the pcb
Join LT to a pink ground
and join RT to a ping ground
thats it
glue the triggers on the back in place. any extra circuitry is a avoided and thats it.
job fucking done. all my electrical planning is now complete, thanks to your outkast, i can go sleep and wait for my wood to arrive 
:edit:
to clarify : it seems all the problems people have with the triggers threw me into a state of worry, except all of these people seems to want to remove the triggers, im fine, my box is based on the Tournament Edition so its huge. also i thought for the longest time RC and LC were to do with the triggers - lol fail.
thanks again
Thank you Zombie CT and Outk@st for helping me! The diagram at joystick vault was the right one. I wish the pelican had common ground cuz Ive never fooled with multiple grounds. Ive only done 1 stick and that was kinda sketchy even with the mad catz. Ill cross my fingers with and hold my breath.
Thanks again!
So Iâve done quite a bit of reading on padhacking and need some clarifications. Iâm planning to dual pcb mod w/toggle switch on my VSHG with toodles PS3 PCB and a Mad Catz retro arcade stick. I want to be able to have access to all the buttons except the analog sticks for both PCBs.
1 - The LT and RT on the Mad Catz retro stick pcb only require 10k ohm resistors to convert analog to digital signal and a diode to not cause the PS3 input to go bonkers (y/n?).
2 - Are the LT and RT on a common ground as the rest of the buttons? or will I have to hook up a certain ground from the 360 PCB directly to the L2 and R2 buttons on the VSHG?
3 - Will I be able to use the headset port on the Mad Catz PCB when switched to 360 mode? I plan on getting an 2.5mm extension cable to connect to the headset.
4 - Should I bother with removing the analog thumbsticks and replacing them with resistors? I hear some people have problems with them.
Sorry for all the questions if all this has been asked before
- maybe :). There is a pull up resistor on the Cthulhu that will do the job if you connect the middle trigger pin to one of the Cthulhu buttons. A diode shouldnât be needed, but I could be wrong. Go ahead and buy some; theyâre cheap, but donât install them without a good reason.
I want to be very clear now; I canât help you do the dual mod. Youâll be tempted to PM or otherwise ask me questions about it; donât. Make sure the Cthulhu works first, but once you know it does, my responsibility ends. Your dual mod can be done and isnât really that hard, but I canât be of help. Itâs hard enough supporting my own board; my board + others would just suck.
- They are active low, so they should be super easy to connect to a Cthulhu and have everything working.
- Yup.
- Nope. You should only do that if you absolutely no room in your stick; if you had no room in your stick, then the retro stick wouldnât be an option; that thing is huge.
So what exactly are LC and RC for? Are they needed for anything?
And soldering the LB and RB buttons are the same procedure as the rest of the buttons despite them being on the back, correct? Just solder to the blue points, and hook up to daisy chain ground, right?
WOW, will attempt this tonight practice my soldering on a old old old 360 controller.
Still a bit confused on the LC and RCâŚ
LC and RC are L3 and R3, the clicks when you push the analogue stic down. uses the same common ground as all the other buttons.
yeah thats right 
I barely used my stick. I know some old soul calibur and a lil mvc2. But I wasnt too fond of square gate back then. In windows i see it triggering the diagonals a lil wrong. some ups are up/right, etc. so I ordered a jlf to play it safe
Yup put in the order. 6 sanwas 30s, jlf, a bubble top, an octagon gate for lolz and some .110 quick disconnects. I figure ill save money and just use 2 of the agetec buttons for back and xbox guide. I guess ill have to cut the traces on the stick again and solder up some grounds for this pad again.
No access to a dremel currently, but I enjoy doing things the hard way. What do I do? I measure across the holes now and should be 28mm? thats the diameter? I can just file 1mm around then? And what prevents the buttons from being able to be spun around? The sanwas also use those lil slots?
Also anytips on custom art? I seen a photoshop template but whats the best way to get art on there? can I just laminate a pic and stick it over the metal?
Iâm wondering whether I would get a JLF-TP-8T or an JLF-TP-8YT, i think the only difference is which way the wire harness is pointing when mounted?
Yep, thatâs the only difference, which doesnât really matter since youâll be wiring the harness up yourself instead of hooking it up to an existing harness in a cab. Iâd go ahead and get the jlf with no mounting plate if youâre going to be mounting it in an Agetec, it saves a couple dollars and a TON of headache, those screws are NOT easy to get out.
The Sanwa snap-ins have four little nubs that make for a very snug fit and prevent them from being spun around, youâd need a pair of pliers or something to try and spin them. If youâre filing by hand, theyâre not going anywhere, youâll be sick of filing long before you make the holes too large⌠
Yea Ive hurt my hands making holes by hand in rockband pcbs. I also learned bunching up a plastic bag in your hand is great to keep your palm from being destroyed.
As for the no mounting plate, where is that option? I saw on lizardlick he had mounting plates separate for $6 and I saw when researching alot of people having trouble removing it. I was really hoping I could ask to not have it and save 4 or 5 bucks. Does lizardlick have that option or would I have to email something like that as a request?
What readings should we have when we get it all wired up and plugged to the computer. I am using the Microsoft visualization software to show the triggers and they are going all the way up and all the way down for one and different for the next. I used the live retro stick PCB for my stick.