Nope, sorry. I’ll have to defer to someone else since I’ve never felt the need to do it. I just use six face buttons on my stick plus Guide and Start.
I also get that CG isn’t necessary. The reason I’m lamely obsessing over it is for dual modding with a PS1 PCB. You can see my humble little thread on that here. I was trying to put together a list of CG controllers for anyone who wanted to do this themselves.
That’s actually what I planned on doing with my stick… only I’ll be using Toodles’ UPCB for PS3 instead of a PS2 pad.
Wireless for my 360 and wired for my friends’ PS3s :bgrin:
No worries about the CG thing though… I’d do the same thing. Hell the time that it saves in the long run from mindless repetative processes is well worth the inquisition now…
I think I found something on the triggers… but I’ll have to ask Toodles for some more info…
Here’s the Photo:
And the note Via “RDC” from “Xbox-Scene”
*NOTE: Actual soldering for the LT and RT spots is on the opposite side of the board. If you’re going to attach an extra button to duplicate one of the Triggers, you use LT1 and LT2, or RT1 and RT2 respectively. The reason LT3/RT3 is there and marked is ONLY for those making an Arcade stick or wishing to remove the Triggers from the board for whatever reason. If the Trigger IS removed a 10k Resistor MUST be installed from LT1 to LT3 or RT1 to RT3. Any common variety 10k 1/4w will do just fine. This is to keep the controller “thinking” that a Trigger is installed and “off”, not pulled. Removing it without installing the 10k Resistor will cause it to act up in some cases, the new button either will not work or will not return to the “off” posistion when released. Pressing the new button you’re installing between 1 and 2 will duplicate the “on”, pulled effect of the Trigger. Also note that you WILL loose the Analog function on the new Trigger button, it will either be on or off, no middle ground like you can achieve by pulling the Trigger partly in. This does not change the way the Trigger acts if it’s left installed, it will still be Analog when you use it.
So it looks like I’d need to pull the triggers completely off the PCB, then solder a resister from RT1 to RT3, then solder the signal coming from RT3?
Sounds easier than it should be for some reason :wtf:
ghaleon, that info is greatness if it works out. I’m currently trying to get the LT and RT working on the Madcats Retro Arcade for a dual PCB mod. They each have their own little screws that activate the buttons and directons when turned…but if it’s placed at a certain angle it seems to work correctly… BUT when I dual PCB it, the L1 and L2 for the PS2 pcb start acting up as if the RT and LT were ground wires or some such.
Hopefully what you found is a fix for this or does anyone know some 360 trigger secrets that can help out? I’d really like to not lose RT and LT.
Hopefully this works because I had the same idea for a dual PCB in mind…
It seems like if the resister trick works it’s the right idea for turning the multi sensitive trigger into a plain old signal/no-signal like we want it to be. Then after that it’s just a matter of finding the right signal output for the button… The note above leads me to belive its labeled RT3 but I’m not 100% sure… it wouldn’t be hard to test though.
I’m going to see if I can’t grab the right resistor at Radioshack tomorrow afternoon and give it a test in the evening…
anybody ever worked with one of those:
http://www.cyberport.de/mall/1/pic/bild4/it1088657B07-158_400.JPG
it’s a wired xbox 360 pad by BigBen. since those madcatz pads are so hard to get, maybe this is a good choice, too?
anybody knows if this is common ground and/or easily hackable?
didn’t find a PCB diagram on slagcoin.
^ Haven’t seen that one before. I wired a couple of buttons on my pad from yesterday and confirmed that it is common ground. So at least there’s a pad you can still buy retail that is (thanks Mad Catz).
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/8645/madcatzpadqv9.jpg
The ground to the right of up worked fine. Here’s my crappy diagram from yesterday.
did you install this pad and have it work already? cause…i have the exact same pad and all my readings were the exact opposite of yours…
See if yours is 2007 on the back of the shell versus 2008. Mine is a 2008 and it was all kinds of different from the 2007 version on Slagcoin.
I’m going to wire it up fully today and will post back when it’s done.
i just bought it last week, it looks exactly like yours–different from the slagcoin website diagram. put a multi meter to it and everything…now i don’t even want to bother trying to put it in my joystick cause it might not work! wtf! gonna test it again. tossed the casing so i can’t say if it’s 2007 or 2008, but everything on the pcb is exactly the same.
did you plug it in and test it with a multimeter? or did you test it without plugging it in, we tested without plugging it in.
I’m testing it plugged in via USB to Windows. Make sure your PCB is identical to my mine. I should have this wired by the end of the day and will let you know if I’m a moron.
That pad has the funky triggers. If you plan on using the triggers follow the guide posted here… http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=169203
Sorry if this has been asked somewhere (I’m sure it has) but does anyone have a link to a guide on how to hack a duelshock 2?
Thanks.
Sweet I was able to install the resistors and my 360 board is all soldered up. I tested it on the pc and 360, everything works great! - Thanks Toodles
Here’s some pics that might help other people see what it looks like
Tried wiring the trigger last night and it seems to be perfect! :tup:
Just a slight change from the note above though.
Use the diagram I found via RDC at the top of the page for referance, then wire a resistor (I used a 4.7K 1/2 and it worked fine) between points LT1 and LT3/RT1 and RT3 then wire the button with one end going to LT2/RT2 and the other going to LT1/RT1
…The “/” just means “or…” you dont actually wire all the way across the board for the LT/RT thing… you just do the same thing for both sides. 
Seemed to work for me, but it was late and I only wired that one button… but yeah any other combination really makes all hell break loose on the board…
Anyone know if the Tekken 5 pcb is a common ground?
Yup, it is.
if ur gonna desolder the thumbstick pots, u can save on the resistor work and use the original pot sections and set them to neutral. Hot glue the centers so they don’t move.
Here I moved one to the other side of the pcb.
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/8148/360pot1bzg3.jpg
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/360pot1bzg3.jpg/1/w512.png
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4442/360pot1asg6.jpg
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/360pot1asg6.jpg/1/w431.png
Funny you guys should mention this… I gutted an old Saturn controller and replaced the IC inside with wires soldered to a 15-pin male connector. I then took several controllers for other game systems (Super NES, Nintendo 64, 3DO, Xbox 360, and GameCube) and soldered wires to the copper pads, then soldered 15-pin female connectors to the wires. The result is a modular Saturn controller that I can use on five different systems… or six if you count the Wii!
I’ve found that the Mad Catz Arcade Stick works well for Xbox 360 controller projects, since the pads are huge and all the buttons are connected to a single ground. Here’s a little diagram I created using that controller, which may help you with your own projects.
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr154/ArugulaZ/madcatzconnections.png
Wow man…I was having problems with the triggers on the same PCB and a visual guide like this is EXACTLY what I needed! I wish I could rep the hell out of you, such perfect timing. Going to try connecting the resistors tomorrow! Thanks!
I finally got my Mad Catz pad (above) wired up. It played nicely with a PS1 DS H Controller so it’s definitely common ground. I used my diagram so I’m pretty sure NewGen and I have different versions.
So from what I can gather the Mad Catz Arcade and the Gamestop rebranded Mad Catz pads are common ground as long as they are the pointy handle variety.
Thanks for the pointers on the triggers. I just wire six buttons but I’ll look into those if it changes in the future.
