*The "padhacking" thread*

yes the PS1 Digital is common ground. Go ahead and double up.

Michael

can someone point me towards pcb hack diagram for ā€œLogitech Chillstreamā€ controller for the PS3?

Thanks!

Toodles it works great I just tested it on my 360. I got the 4.7 k ohm, Thanks so much. I just have a few other questions. Can I use the screw terminals or do I have to use the [A-H] and [1-9] points on the board to connect to the 360 board? Also do I need a toggle switch if I want to use just one usb cable. I wanted to use the cable from the PS3 board.

You can use the screw terminals if you’d like. For some reason using the unlabelled holes for dualing seems cleaner in my mind, that a way you can still easily change the button arrangement if you wish, but, there is no technical reason against using the screw terminals. If that’s easiest for you, go to town.

Yes, you need a toggle if you’re going to use a single USB cable. It is highly recommended that you use the cable that came with the 360 pad; they are LONG and good quality cables, and the quick pull end is kind of nice.

However, if you really really really MUST use the USB jack on the Cthulhu as your only outgoing USB cable, you can, but you have the get kinky. Look at the top of the board just behind the USB jack. You’ll see the columns and rows of through holes. You’ll see the spacing between row 1 and row 2 is thicker than the spacing between row 2 and row 3. If you look close, you’ll see a light colored greed trace connected each column of row 2 to the column above it. Cut that trace for column D and column E. Solder a length of wire to row 1 column D; that goes to your DPDT switch and is D-, the white wire. Solder a length of wire to row 1 column E; that go to your DPDT switch and is D+, the green wire. These two are your wires going from the board to your DPDT switch; they connect to the OUTSIDE two pins of the switch, and the white and green wires from the 360 pad go to the OTHER outisde two pins. The INSIDE two pins should be connected to wires and come BACK to the Cthulhu board, to be soldered to row 2 columns D and E (white/D- to row 2 column D, and green/D+ to row 2 column E).

Whatever console is selected, the USB wires will go through the switch to the row 2 points, which are still connected to the USB jack. By cutting the trace between row 1 and row 2, you prevent the Cthulhu chip’s USB wires from interfering when the 360 is selected.

I’m sure this’s been asked before, but can someone clarify the which connections of a ps1 dual shock pad use the different voltage grounds(7.7v vs. 3.3 v), & if theres any particular reasoning why? thanks

Use the 3.3v. The other is meant specifically for rumble motors, and isn’t present on some converters.

I’m sure this has been asked but I ran a search and didn’t come up with anything…

I’ve wired numerous PS1 and Dualshock pads but I just got a 360 and I’m going to be wiring a pcb for a new stick… I have no idea what the hell to do about the triggers though.

Been on slagcoin’s site and I’m pretty sure I have a new version wireless 360 controller… (just got it yesterday) but I don’t understand how I would go about wiring the triggers to buttons, seems like it’s going to be rather difficult.

Also, quick one… My friend has a SF anniversary stick that only works for the PS2, if he wanted it to work for the PS3 the easiest thing to do would to get toodles’ UPCB board and just put in additional wires from the buttons to UPCB right? (essentially 2 PCB’s in it then)

Just wanted to verify this before spending money. Please correct me if I’m wrong:

1. Common Ground
2. Not Common Ground?
3. Not Common Ground
4. Possibly Common Ground

Did we get a confirmation on that last pad that VOLTECH has?

Just leave them alone unless you’re feeling adventurous. You’ll have 6 buttons from ABXY LB and RB.

This isn’t very pad-hacky, but you could get a PS2-PS3 adapter that supports the SFA stick.

Do you plan on using them for buttons? If not you can just leave them(probably good to put some hot glue over them so they don’t move) at all.

if i used an official 360 pad, can i desolder and completely remove the two triggers, since i dont need them? skimmed through the thread, but didnt see the answer to this, might of missed up. can anyone confirm this for me. thanks.

I bought a Gamestop/Mad Catz pad today thinking it was the one from Slagcoin. It turned out to be slightly different so I worked up a wanna-be Slagcoin diagram for it:

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/4827/madcatz2008sp4.jpg

I’m about 90% sure this is common ground since it’s nearly identical to the other one (2007 vs 2008):

Toodles can you please confirm the common ground when you have a second?

I don’t have one so I can’t verify 100%. I bet that one is probably the newer CG model, the one that has the triggers backwards. If someone else that has used these (Ed_Farias, Zombie CPT, Akuma001?) they could probably confirm that.

Thanks for the link!

And yeah, I was planning on using all the buttons. If it’s absolutly insane and near impossible I’ll think about using 6… but if not I might as well give it a shot right!

Is there something on instructables about wiring the triggers to buttons?

Forgive my ignorance in assuming that you could magically read the PCB. If I can connect a wire to one of those grounds and run it around to all of the buttons and they activate does that mean that it’s common ground? This is all interesting as hell to me but I don’t have a background in electronics.

Connect one wire to a ground spot on the PCB, then daisy chain the wire to 2 or more buttons. Then wire the signal on each of the 2 or more buttons, if it works it should be common ground, if not then you’ll have to wire a ground and a signal to each button.

Long story short, the answer to your question should be yes… lol

I could be wrong, but that’s my understanding :sweat:

Yeah, that’s how I understand it as well. I’m stuck at work for the evening which means I can’t wire up the pad until tomorrow. :tdown:

I just got off work and was planning on trying to wire the 360 pad but I’ve never done one before… kinda anxious about craking open a brand new $50 controller…

Yeah, I’m not even a fan of spending $25 on the Mad Catz pads. I bought a used Microsoft wired pad yesterday for $10 but the face buttons (ABXY) didn’t work and I took it back. I would have liked to wire it but it ended up as gas money instead.

Haha yeah serious!

There just weren’t many common ground wireless controllers though… CG isn’t NEEDED but it definatly makes things a lot less messy and saves a ton of time.

Do you know anything about wiring the triggers?