XMetal and hacksparrow, you guys got it! I’ll include jdm714’s information on the ASCII Answer (Optical) in the first post. :tup:
EDIT: And done! Added in jdm714’s info and a bit of info on what to expect when you’re hunting for an optical joystick.
Nice find by the way meus, and local to boot! I can tell right off the bat that you’ve got one with the translucent gray ASCII shaft cover as well. Those things are very nice indeed. Good stuff! :tup:
Ikagi-chan, I updated my Post with Katakana for the other ASCII.
Good stuff jdm714! I updated the first post with your newly edited post. Thanks for the additional katakana! :tup:
man im bored i need more sticks to buy.
So here is close up of my brand new flash1 that come from japan today all complete plus mine ascii optical too.
http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt2/meus/IMG_1266.jpg
http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt2/meus/IMG_1270.jpg
holy crap meus, excellent close ups. can you take close of pic of dustwasher too 
it doesnt come with mounting plate?
No there isnt mounting plate for it. Also pic of the dustwasher.
Hah! Great haul meus. And thanks for the close up images of the Sanwa FLASH 1! By the way, it’s not pictured in the above images, but I really dig those Namcos and the ASCII/Sammy Guilty Gear X2 stick you posted in the “Check out my new arcade stick” thread! :lovin:
Finally received my ASCII … ( USPS walked my ASCII from Canada to Florida… i mean seriously … they took there sweet time getting here… ) wired it up for my TE and then noticed the gate doesnt sit right… like it wouldnt snap down all the way. I took it apart and I see the rubber ring and the clear plastic one. When I take the plastic one out the gate snaps in fine and all is right in the world… but if i leave it in place i cant get it to seat properly … NOW … my question is… how integral is that clear plastic washer/ring thing…
Hmm…Did you take it out of the case or was it already removed? Just asking b/c if it was removed, the original owner may have taken apart the joystick. Anyway , you need at least the rubber ring in there . Otherwise the PCB will not fit flush. Try it with the plastic both above the rubber ring and below.
Well i was away from the forum a long time. Just came back to check the tech part again, and found this post. I bought two p360 back in 99 or 00 when gametime was closing for the fare price of $25 each. Personally i use only one of them, and so far never had a problem. I came back to argentina and sold the other one to a friend of mine, but i think he burn it one day by miss conecting the positive with the negative and vice versa by mistake. Now he is crying about it.
Now about the issue with the voltage, I modified my joystick to play on DC, and PS. The firs problem i had was how to switch from pcb to pcb, and i solved it by using a plug with 15 conections. On the DC i use the voltage from the pcb directly, but for the PS i use four AA batteries. Rechargable of course so they last longer. That way i get 6v and i think it is better than 3.3v.
Now for the people that want to modify their optical joysticks, i think we should explain how they work. From what i studied on my p360 the actuator when it is in neutral it is blocking all the four rays of light. If you move it to the left, the actuator is going to let a ray of light to hit the sensor, and that is the signal to the left. Now if you make the actuator fatter you will increase the dead zone. So if you want it more sensitive you have to make the actuator thiner. Perhaps i am mistaken about how the p360 works, but in my p360 if you want it to work only as a for way you flip the actuator and it is fatter.
So far my p360 works perfectly and love it. I take care good care of it every time i use it, and if i use it with the PS pcb i always disconnect the batteries afterwards.
Sorry posted twice by accident
The plastic ring has to be above the rubber ring. The plastic ring should NEVER come into contact with the solder points on the ASCII Answer (Optical) PCB. Only the rubber side should. beastSPL, it does take a bit more force than normal to snap the gate on the ASCII joysticks. They’re great quality, but their parts need a bit of “breaking in” so to speak. Hell, the first time I tried, I couldn’t even remove the damn gate, it was held in so tight by the friction! :xeye:
So, in short, layered from top to bottom should be:
I’d recommend that if you have a seriously hard time getting things to hold together to retrofit everything except for the black plastic base with Sanwa parts, especially the gate, spring cover, actuator, and bearing (the hemispherical white plastic pivot). The shaft and the E-clip you don’t have to worry about so much since they’re literally clones of the Sanwa JLF.
Batteries are a great way to get the voltage an optical joystick needs. But, there’s definitely an easier way to go about getting a consistent +5V to your joystick!
Check out that step-up converter. It can take in basically any input voltage up to +6V and output either a consistent +3.3V or a consistent +5V. To get it to work with +5V, you’ll have to pick up a 100k Ohm resistor, but that’s a minor expenditure. Batteries are a great alternative to this, but this way, you don’t have to worry about having to unhook any batteries. You just plug in and unplug when not in use! :tup:
Sorry Beast didnt know about that. I did notice when i was about to ship it out to u the gate didnt want to go in all the way. So i didnt want to force it. I got it like that. I had tested the Ascii stick, everything was working fine and good to go.
Also im sorry for the late shipping to ur place, it never should have been that late to arrive at ur place. But im happy u got it also i think i know why the gate doesnt want to snap in place. The metal pins on ur optical might be little too long. Thats why the octo-gate doesnt fit properly. U might want to get scraper metal an scrap little on top of the metal.
For me it may be the solder pins that is little long. Here is pic of what im trying to say.
http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt2/meus/IMG_0763.jpg
Those 16 solder pins might be the cause of ur gate not fitting in propely
thanks guys! I think Meus is on to something as when i was looking at it the solder points were a bit tall … Im currently running the PCB and base with JLF shaft and actuator with a LS-55 spring and sanwa square gate. and im currently running it without the plastic ring… ima take pictures tomorrow when i get home from work as its pretty late right now. i was just excited to get it in the TE and mess around with it. thanks again guys!
IM 100 % its the solder pins heads that are long on ur optical…
i wouldnt have this problem if i had a Flash 1 … hahah
the flash uses the ribber ring aswell, but its not needed like the ascii.
lol i was just joking but yea … wouldnt mind having a Flash still …
ill def. snap some pictures of before and afters… i just need to find my metal file …
haha, you’re in the same position as I was. I got an ascii and ended up getting a flash too( though still no dust washer…somebody help me out here!) but I’m still waiting for voltech to get his new cases done so I have something to put it in.
I even had the same problem with my ascii and run it without the plastic ring.