sanwa shipped original FLASH1’s kits with octogates
it was an intended option for flash1’s due to this lack of feeback on directions you are “hitting”
Insightful. Still not a fan 
thinking of buying a wico p360 but , does anyone know how this can hook up with a ps1 / ps2 pcb or anything ps1 ps2
You need a DC to DC converter to step the voltage from +3 volts up to +5 volts.
oh right do you know which one of these people used back in the day ?
No I don’t. It was something from a older Toodles Spark thread, optical JLF board that used 5 volts and there issues using it with the PlayStation 1 and 2 as they give controllers only 3.5 volts.
There a 7 volt line but that only used for rubble and certain other unique functions.
I used to have an optical in my jlf, but I switched to silent jlf switches. Just as smooth imo, but not as accurate.
Hey I’m kind of reverse engineering an old Perfect 360 pwb and from what I can tell besides the obvious 4 sets of IR transmitters/photo-detecters (guessing 930 nm) I see 4 bias resistors and what appears to be one of them old school 74 series chips (I’m guessing an inverting schmitt trigger cause putting schmittys in for debounce is always a good idea).
What I’m trying to understand is does this joystick work in reverse logic? The chip is an inverter so that would mean the the optical switch must always been on and the moving the joystick/actuator/light blocker “switches” the directions off (which is inverted by the chip). Someone with more experience probably knows the right answer or maybe I have a really weird design.
this is the new Magenta, not optical, but hall effect, worth checking out
Do anyone have the wiring instruction for the ASCII optical? If so can someone listed it here. Thanks
Any reviews of Hori’s Optical? surprised it’s not as popular at least on this board
Hori’s optical Hayabusa isn’t a stand alone joystick where you can just buy it, it only comes in certain models of the Hori Real arcade pro
Which means you got to gut a Hrap to put the joystick elsewhere.
is there a difference between the levers in the sticks and this one https://arcadeshock.com/collections/joysticks/products/hori-hayabusa-silent-optical-joystick ?
Those optical Hayabusas (along with the matte buttons) are extracted from HRAPs that ArcadeShock gets in.
No that’s why I thought they’d be more popular here seeing is how everyone had a nerd boner for opticals not long ago
ive been thinking about getting one, but im kind of more interested in the magenta.
My Hori Hayabusa Optical Joystick is randomly giving me error inputs during the dragon punch motion. I get up towards causing my character to jump, during the jump the dp input comes out cleanly. I opened it up and blew compressed air over the pcb of the joystick and the problem remains. The error input only happens during the dp motion. It started this month and I’ve never jump by moving forward or backward. I’ve took apart the joystick and checked for dust and it’s clean. What could be causing this?
-I didn’t install the joystick it came with my Hori RAP V silent.
-The error input happens randomly I can’t make it happen at will
-I have inputs turned on in training mode so I can see the unwanted input.
-I’ve owned the arcade stick for 11 months
-I’ve never gotten the jump error during the dp motion in the past.
-I use a three finger grip. My diagonal jumps are done with my thumb from the bottom of the balltop.
if its under warranty then get an exchange
I don’t think I can exchange it, the matte finish on the buttons is completely gone. I think arcadeshock would exchange if it were under the 90 day warranty. I’ve had it for almost a year so I’m think the answer from arcadeshock would be a no.
try contacting hori and inquire about the warranty on their products. im sure they have some sort of rma like process for faulty devices.