Yea you easily can if you grab a battop adapter with it and an aftermarket battop with it. You can add that circle gate to it from the JLF if you add Paradise’s HUGS gate system to it. Again, dunno how well it’d work, but tou can try it I guess.
•So that pcb runs off 3.5V battery. Your 5V optical pcb cold work wired to the pcb’s battery. You’ll have shorter battery life.
•Now you could leave the stick wired and wire into the micro usb for your 5V you just couldn’t play wirelessly
•Introduce your own secondary power source with a 5v/6v rechargeable battery.
So my Flash is buggy. The “up” input does not register as well as it should and diagonal “up-left” and “up-right” have to be pushed really hard and deep.
I checked a ascii optical and it worked flawlessly on the same stick.
Its a crooked IR led. Make sure you know which one is the one that is crooked. Pm me if you do not know how to find the crooked IR led.
But be so fucking careful trying to move it cause you will kill it if you are not.
I still can not find the proper infra red to replace the one that burned out on me. Bummer too.
2 were a lil off, gently bent them back, will test but i just picked up a hori vewlix ps4 i tried putting it there but not sure what to do with the power red single cable?
Optical sticks seem to have a pretty much all out high praise in terms of accuracy and smoothness, but I was wondering if anyone’s tried them and still chosen to use regular microswitches with fighting games?
My Japanese cabs all have regular sticks. I prefer optical sticks, but will admit that they do feel different. Not a lot, but I think if you aren’t used to playing on them it would be an issue. My travel sticks all have regular sanwas. If it is an MvC2 set up, I use all P360 sticks. I guess it just depends. Nowadays I am happy just to have a few people over to game. Standardized controls keeps everyone happy.
The audible (and sometimes tactile) clicks on snap-action microswitches found in most standard joysticks help to establish a rhythm during play that cannot be replicated through use of optical sensor or “silent” Reed switch-based joysticks. That said, you can get used to anything with enough practice (aka getting bodied).
Considering optical sticks are high-end and sometimes hard to come by, I would not feel too bad if you can’t track any of them down. I think it only makes a difference for American style arcade controls, specifically MvC2. That is probably the only group out there searching for them on a regular basis. These new pcbs out there make it easy to power Perfect 360s with a dedicated 5v.
@DirrtyPop
Just google “toodles spark CE” and voila you have a store selling it, it’s supposedly in stock. CE is a revised spark, it has a sensitivity adjust via trimpot , it’s the equivalent of adjusting the “engage” of an array of 4 snap microswitches.
@Pablo_the_Mex
there’s nothing high end about them, they’re simple photo interrupter circuits and they don’t even self compensate but it’s true they’re getting very hard to find these days.
@jopamo it’s no substitute for the particular feel associated with snap switches, but an optical pcb + octogate can give a player a hint of what directions he’s hitting , the price to pay is to ride the gate often . Guessing in the dark and relying 100% on muscle memory ( and a lot of training) would be to play with a pure circular restrictor + optical pcb, a real challenge. The feel gets closer to an analog stick.