Thanks guys! That’s really helpful to see all the information there :).
Having a little issue with this p360 install. Never installed one so I’m not sure what’s wrong. Basically, when I power up the stick, all the directions are pushed at once. Pic is mostly so you guys can see which version it is. I think this is going to be something silly, but I dunno. The stick might be bad. Arcade owner just pulled it out of a dusty bag to put it in his stick. If you need to see something else, let me know.
Where’s the shaft and actuator?
If the actuator is not there, there’s nothing blocking the lights, so it’ll think all directions are activated. (Assuming everything is wired up properly of course)
Took it out so it’d lay on the table for the picture. Thanks though, it did have to do with the actuator. Had it assembled kind of backwards.
Aight, so I got myself some Wico Perfect 360 sticks
I also got 12 Wico Perfect 360 buttons and I have no clue as to how you take out the switches. If you know please tell me.
Going from left to right, the first two sticks, I believe, are Wico sticks with the perfect 360 add on. They both have an adapter so that they mount to the base. The throw seems a little short and there is probably no way to adjust it. I put in some hard springs, cleaned them up, and should be good to go. Was the add on supposed to work with several wico micro switch sticks?
The far right stick is what I believe to be the original wico p360. Unfortunately, there seem to be some missing metal sleeves as I cross checked what I have with what is on Kowal’s site. It feels rough and honestly the whole assembly seems way more fragile than the sticks with p360 add on kit. May just keep as a novelty.
If there is anything I need to know please share. I hope to get these in one of my american cabs. MvC2 all day son.
Holy shit the Wico P360 shits all over the Happ P360. That’s a real man’s stick. No homo.
I just bought a Spark, and using a square gate, I gotta ask: how hard is it to know if you’re hitting 2/4/6/8 directions? Might switch to Octo gate because of it, but it hasn’t come in the mail yet.
The only way i found to increase the throw is to widen the hole on the top base with a dremel or some kind of rotary tool.
Seem to work wonders for p360. However, using this with the microswitch addon instead with the square actuator will cause the stick to hit the corners giving it, literally, a square gate feel. Thats good if you’re into the square gate like feels I guess. Hope that gives you some ideas.
After putting them in my capcom cab, they felt great. Perfect for MvC2. Turned out to be a non-issue, but thanks for the info!
So, if I get the add on kit, which Wico stick should I track down to make the ultimate stick? Just the conical 8-way, a Happ Super? Anyone know?
Sorry for bumping this old thread but I had a few questions regarding optical sticks in general.
The first being, is going optical the way to go? It sounds really badass in the aspect of not only being far more quiet, it has a shorter throw then normal switches.
Here is the thing though…I have no idea on how it feels.
I’m looking at the Rollie Flash PCB, it seems pretty solid with 2 tension springs. Toodles Spark/CE also looks pretty nice with the adjustable sensitivity. Gaming Finger is also making one but little is known about it.
Any kind of feedback would be nice. Thanks in advance.
I thought of something really sick. Imagine if Toodles and Gummownd got together and made an optical stick with a detachable shaft. Has that or something similar already happened? If not, how good an idea would that be?
I don’t see why you can’t use the Link with any optical JLF PCB…
Hmmm, very Interesting, This is giving me all kinds of random ideas. Imagine an auto-detect hitbox arcade controller where the removal of the JLF activates the buttons and the connecting of the JLF turns them off? All this with an optical stick.
necro bump. just a small question, did the original Sanwa FLASH optical jlf’s use the stock JLF spring? or did they provide a spring with different tension?
Both the original FLASH 1 joystick sets as well as the PCB-only upgrade kits came with a heavier spring to make up for the tension lost from having no microswitches. I think both still came with the stock JLF spring, they just included the extra heavier spring if you wanted to use that. This all being said, my unscientific tests have lead me to conclude that the spring Sanwa included was about the same kind of tension as two JLF springs intertwined together. I can’t say exactly how much tension that is, but I think that the 1.5 or 2 lb. replacement JLF springs from Paradise Arcade are the way to go. More on the side of the 2 lb. spring in my opinion.
Is there a way to install it on qanba q4raf? Haven’t seen any info on how to.
The Qanba Q4 Raf should have a standard Sanwa JLF.
So the Toodles Spark or Rollie Flash 1 should install the same as any JLF install
Ok,thanks… I was looking for the 5v port and I was told it was VCC that’s attached to the USB cord was it. I wasn’t sure if it was correct one or not.
Yeah you can tap into the USB’s 5volt like for your optical’s power supply.