The Optical Joystick Discussion

Hmmm…That’s pretty neat I won’t lie. I didn’t actually know about all this stuff until you told me! :rofl:

I just took a gander at some information about the stick. It would seem like the sensors work similarly to the SUZO Inductive joysticks where it uses magnetic fields to sense directions. If so, you’re certainly not going to have to worry about it dying that fast. The SUZO Inductive was made quite a while ago and a lot of them are still kicking around. All things considered, I’m fairly surprised at how cheap the Ultra Stik 360 is. That would certainly be an interesting project to pick up. Now the only problem is finding a case deep enough to mount it, though it looks like most cases that can fit American-style parts can fit this too.

sorry for bumping an old thread but i too would like some more info on the Ultrastik 360. Like, for example. Does it work on Consoles?

I’m not quite an expert on the subject since I have not used one, but yes, it will work on console fightsticks.

fuck it, i went ahead and ordered the Ultrastik 360 and all of its accessories that go with it. Ill give it a full test thru and review for all those curious about the stick sometime next week.

CUTWEST, be sure to post up and let us all know how it is! I’m actually very curious how it is since it looks like it’s a fairly easy mount for most joysticks. But, that may just me sucking at measuring things visually. Best of luck to your quest my friend!

Just got my Ultrastik 360 in the mail today.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc5/CUTWEST/100_0320.jpg

And first things first. Yes, this stick does work on consoles. Well, i should say really that this stick works on the PS3 Since i dont have an xbox 360 to test it on at the moment so im not sure if it works on that system or not. But i can confirm 100% that this stick does work on the PS3.

As for the feel of this stick it feels really smooth. This stick is modeled after the JLF so it shares a lot of its characteristics as well as some parts being compatible with one another. The analog controls on this thing are godlike. VERY precise (as it should be) and accurate.

and as far as measurements and mounting goes, If you can mount and JFL or a Happ/IL Comp you can mount this stick. This stick is about the same size as a happ\iL comp so again, If you can mount that stick into your case you shouldn’t have any problems with this one.

everything else about this stick that i want to say has already been said here:
http://retroblast.arcadecontrols.com/reviews/Ultimarc_Ultrastick_0925006-01.html

And here is the website where i purchased this stick and all of its accesories.
http://www.arcadeemulator.net/

If anyone has any questions what so ever about the stick please let me know.
peace.

Nice to hear a review from an SRK member! Sounds like a good stick overall if it’s within your budget.

Unless it has an MS security chip, it wont work on the 360.

The next thing that needs to be done off course is a comparison test with a Sanwa flash.

The analog part won’t work on a 360, but you can still wire it to a PCB just like any other joystick and use it in the 8-way or 4-way modes.

Is there any PCB that supports analog motions from this? I mean, wouldn’t it be possible to use it in analog mode on a console too?

Is there any sort of analog output from the Ultrastik? If not, then no, not really.

From what I can tell (cursory glance at the product info page), it can only output analogue data over USB – the auxiliary pins used to hook it up as a 4/8-way stick are digital only outputs. So in order to get the analog sensor data out of the stick, you’d have to A) tap into the stick’s PCB, bypassing the USB chip they use to get to the sensor data directly (or maybe there’s a secondary ADC chip that’s in there, and you could tap the communication bus), or B) make a USB host (or OTG) device that can read it as a computer would. This second method would likely introduce some latency to the readings, just because of the conversions and such.

Once you have that data, you need to feed the analogue signals to a 360 controller PCB (basically, output two appropriate voltages within the analogue stick’s X/Y ranges). The whole thing’s a bit of a headache, quite frankly.

At that point, it may just be easier to find and use a Seimitsu LS-64. It’s pricey, but I can only assume it’s easier to work with since I believe you can tap into the analog output directly. Of course, I have yet to see any documentation on how the thing actually works. I could be wrong, but I highly doubt anyone here on SRK’s done something with it (maybe jdm714?). That thing is mighty expensive and HUGE.

I agree, looks like a lot of work.

Can you chain more than one of the U360s together?

What of the LS-64? Another analog stick, but then you’d have to use a 360 or PS3 PCB I’m assuming correct? No way to do analog with boards like the Chutulu I’m assuming.

While the the Cthulhu can send analog data, it does not directly accept analog input, only digital. You can probably install an LS-64 with the use of an X360 or a PS3 PCB, but you’ll need some hefty batteries if you’re going to do that. You can’t power the LS-64 off of the X360 or PS3 PCB’s power alone. According to the spec sheet from AkihabaraShop, the thing requires +10V (!). That’s quite a lot; I don’t think any joystick of practical size would be able to use one of these things.

As for the U360, I can’t answer that; CUTWEST is the guy you want to talk to about those.

That’s a lot of volts! Clearly it’s not designed to be used in consoles or over USB :P. How many milliamps is it pulling though?

You got me. I don’t even know if that information sheet says anything about them. But if you’re interested, you can check it out at akihabarashop.jp.

I havent used one, so I could be entirely off base, but that LS-64 looks like a joystick hooked up to X/Y potentiometers just like a pad. There’s no reason I can you couldn’t reasily remove the analog stick from a pad and swap it in. The 10v is likely a maximum voltage it can safely handle, but Im bet most cabinets run them at 5v or less.

Exactly. Couple pots just need a reference voltage (conveniently provided for you by that third pin on the built in potentiometers’ footprints that everyone always ignores) and you SHOULD be good. It looks like it comes pre-wired in a specific (kinda strange) fashion, with the two pots linked together somehow or something (just looking at some Japanese datasheet, so I’m taking guesses), but the picture makes it look like it should be easy to tap into the terminals of the pot itself. It does list a draw of .1W @ 10V, which I think is just them being lazy and only using one digit of precision for the wattage.

U360 is amazing
you can adjust all
diagonal, engage, change direction on every cell.
and funny thing - previous diagonals before straight direction - impossible on normal stick

I use inductive hub on JLW (JP ver.) stick have shorter throw and better dynamic than j-stick (JLW ver. US/Euro)

U360 theoretically work only on PC
but run on PS3 with some problems
**U360 must be programmed on digital mode!!! **
**defult is analog mode, run this stick on PC and use Ultra 8way digital map (**without sticky cell, never use sticki cell - breaks many move)

U360 have only 8 buttons X, O, square, triangle, L1, L2, R1, R2
but 8 button work how shift you get next 9,10,11,12,13,14,15
and…
shift+X=start
shift+square= select
no home button :confused:

on game you can’t use 8buttons if you need start and select but it is not a big problem
for 65$ you get very good (or better) alternative optical stick with interface
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/5453/graphic1uj.png

and still work on output mode how normal inductive/optical stick, use Cthulhu and +5V.
output mode support is only digital!
all work fine!
http://www.ultimarc.com/ultrastik_inst.html

thanks Cutwest and Kowal, i wondered if it worked on ps3 but did not have the funds to blindly jump.