I see… Btw good game awhile back. Hit me up for a rematch if you want.
I know how you feel… I spent $40 with 2 chips buying at separate times and on other small things. and the countless hours or testing and retesting and rewiring everything to make sure I didn’t slip up somewhere. for a while I thought it might be my ps2. afraid that I blown something or even worse, the optical. I tried several different ways of wiring it (v column, both vcc on imp, vcc on xbox 360 pcb, all vcc line on MC cthulhu. even burn the vcc on the bottom of the board (thank goodness I don’t need it to make the board work) with the constant soldering and desoldering. in the end. I got nothing. the closest I got was RJ45 vcc/ground straight to step-up and from step-up to MC cthulhu and everything else from. it works for a bit but ultimately fails. I might go back to USB setup myself. but it’s ugly. I’m planning on using a Din 9 breakaway cable setup. the other end having 2 cables.
this draws WAY too much power to work between the pcb and optical board. it does output 4.9-5v, but the incoming voltage drops to ~1.5v from 2.9v. i didn’t bother hooking up anything to it because the ps2 stopped communicating with the stick from lack of power.
For someone who wants an ASCII optical. $128.69 + shipping.
You can couple that with Bing (8%) and FW cashback and it’s a decent price for a complete/boxed ASCII.
~Paik
EDIT: for those of you not in the know, Bing and FW (Fatwallet) info as follows:
Bing.com is Microsoft’s search engine and let’s you get 8% back on Buy-it-now ebay purchases. It gives you cashback at a bunch of other online stores too. You have to sign up first (free).
Basically you go to bing.com and search for something you want like PS3 and at the top you’ll see sponsored links and one is typically ebay. You click the link and it’ll direct you to eBay. From there you just buy something with buy-it-now and then pay with Paypal (you must pay with paypal). Then Bing will give you 8% back into your Paypal account. Sometimes immediately sometimes after a certain waiting period (typically 30-60 days).
FW is fatwallet.com which also offers cashback but much smaller. It’s a site to check for deals. You can double up on the Bing (8%) + FW cashback (1%) on ebay for a total of 9%. Anyway, there’s a whole ebay/FW cashback tutorial here:
I’ve ordered my p360 for my next project. Debating on using the joytron pcb or the Chimp and hacking a 360 pad. I’ve never played with one (at least not knowingly), so I’s like to see how it feels and plays compared to a happ competition. If I like it I may have to do some retrofitting. Anybody know the mounting depth of one of these things?
good looking out Paik!! def. a great buy for a complete i think… if it was the capcom version i might have jumped on it…
BTW … just out of confirmation … the ASCII Dreamcast pcb is common ground yea?
Yes, it is.
Hey guys, are there any good guides around these parts for how to install Ascii/Flash1’s? I just want to make sure everything’s in order before I start tinkering with the internals of my stick.
I’m using a TE 360 PCB and an MC Cthulu, if that helps. I know something about VCC and 5V, and… yeah that’s about it :lol:
You just install it(flash) as you would a normal JLF. You draw the “5v” power from the “VCC” point on the cthulu.
edit: if anyone has a genuine Flash1 sticker Id pay up to 30 bucks shipped.
I posted about this a couple pages back but it was completely ignored. Here’s to trying again.
Has anyone tried out the Ultrastik 360? It’s looks like an optical JLW and looks like to be a solid optical option for those of us that don’t want to fork out 100+ bucks.
the only difference between hooking up an optical and a regular joystick is the addition of connecting voltage to it. VCC just means the common power available, or 5v or 3v on ps2.
on a flash you would just need to hook up the extra 3-pin power connector to the VCC spot on the MC cthulu and connect the regular joystick harness from the TE to the 5-pin output connector.
for the ascii, jdm has a diagram floating around somewhere that show what wire is for what.
EDIT: that ultimac 360 stick is for mame and useless for consoles or real arcade hardware.
Never used an ultrastick or even heard spoken of. Ive seen the website before. Buy it, take it apart and give us a review!
I didn’t know you guys know about it.
Laugh.
I had only linked to it three times.
One the original, one some time, and once yesterday.
beastSPL has saved my image and linked to this Thread on Page 3.
I’m going to link mine again here.
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/1058/madcatzasciiwire.png
Dreamcast has colors going Green, Brown, Gray, Yellow.
PlayStation has the colors going Green, Orange, Blue, Yellow.
The colors are different, but they are the same as diagrammed.
And for some reason, it always follows after Post of masturfader.
Laugh.
Sweet, thanks you guys! My wife’s picking this bad boy up from the Post Office tonight. Can’t wait to drop this in my TE!
jdm, yeah you’re right, you had posted this in the thread. I knew I’d seen it around but I couldn’t remember where, didn’t have to look far 
Ikagi-chan, it might be a good idea to add jdm’s diagram to the first post. Really easy to find that way.
will the optical stick from the black ascii fit in the mad catz sfiv stick?
:looney: i like the look and the feel of the ascii so much better…
http://www23.atwiki.jp/ac_stick/?plugin=ref&serial=204
http://cache.gawker.com/assets/images/gizmodo/2009/02/IMG_7474.jpg
It mounts just like a Sanwa JLF.
I hear ya Annihilationscape. I’ll do that ASAP. :tup:
i have to say, espgaluda with an optical is god tier.
why cant there a joystick made that I dont have to calibrate. ever time i did that, it would be messed up
yes it will, but you’ll need to take the shaft from the madcatz se joystick and put it in the ascii stick.
after that, you’ll have to remove the mounting plate from the se joystick and put it on the ascii stick, then mount it back on your se.
finally, you’ll have to wire the ascii stick to the circuit board.