Hey Jaesen, looking into re-doing my X1 TE2 ps360+/padhack stick with a UFB and an EZMOD. In your FAQ there is mention of getting this setup to work with a Kaimana Khameleon by making a modified mini-usb cable - can you give more details on that? I’m assuming that the mini side of the cable gets plugged into the KK - where does the other end go? Also - slightly off topic - are Khameleon’s still available somewhere, or am I better off with a Kaimana mini? Thanks!
Who’s Jaesen?
You need to make a cable thats a USB mini to the Molex KK 4 pin to replace the USB internconnect included in the kit.
Honestly though, use a mini and just pop the top to update it. The TE2 is too easy to open to not use the Mini… or rather get an LVT3 and be done with it.
The guy I ask questions of when I can’t type 
Thanks, makes sense. I’d need the PS4 LVT3 if I got that route, right? (This one)
Yeah, I assume so. I think Paradise can answer which is the best for the EZ MOD.
The EZ Mod & Brooks UFB combo for my TE2+ works great! Very easy install! Thank you Jasen! Are these 2 boards common ground?
I have a Remora, FGWiget, Uilas LEDs, and Arceyes 3 from some older sticks that I’d like to try to use for the TE2+. But which one!?
I think I can power either LED controller board using the Vcc and push button GND spots on the Brooks UFB or maybe on the EZ Mod USB terminal block. Since the J3 terminal block on the Brooks UFB wasn’t used to wire up my push buttons, I believe and can use it as my “IN” for 1P, 2P, etc for the FGWiget LED controller, “OUT” for 1P, 2P,etc would be wired to the Vcc on the LED (in this case, Uilas). All grounds for LEDs and push buttons would be daisy chained together.
Maybe use this with the Remora using the TES terminals instead of the TE for the kill ground to be accounted for? I had Arceyes 3 hooked up to my Remora and rewired it to work on a TE PS3.
I’d go the LVT3 route but those are rarely ever available. Again, great product!
Thank you so much for helping me get the right part on order. I’m excited to be able to use my stick again!
Yes, EZ MOD and UFB are common ground.
Getting “unknown device” on win 7, when connecting to PC.
Blinking “LED3” light on the EZMOD TE2+ Board.
Modded with brooks UFB, Updated safely to 2.0
Won’t register at all on ps4 either.
Anyone else experienced this issue?
Is the Panthera easy mod kit compatibel with an Atrox for XOne? Own an Atrox and want an multi platform stick. Buying an extra Panthera is not very cheap ;(. By the way does it have Nintendo Switch Support? There is no word over Nintendo in the description. But UFB have Switch support with the newest firmware.
Thx in advance
Not tested at all, so I can’t officially say yes, though it’s unlikely. The UFB supports switch.
Blinking LED3 is correct. It pulses so I know it’s code is working.
There are a ton of threads on the Win7 discussion on the UFB. Please look through them using the search functions of SRK.
As for PS4… Certify you are at the most current FW. If the UFB is working on other systems and it’s being recognized for the updates… Signs point to the PS4.
Hi Jasen,
Thanks for responding.
Combing through everything to try and identify where the issue is, appreciate you clarifying the LED3 Light.
The firmware was successfully updated on the UFB to the current release, I’ll comb through the threads after additional troubleshooting. And post results, gotta say the EZ Mod Kit has been great so far, thanks so much for all your hard work.
I took one for the team and ordered a Panthera EZ mod kit for my xbone atrox. It works with a few notes:
A few face buttons need to be moved around. No big deal.
The pins for the Razer LED on the Atrox are the opposite way on the Panthera. I simply inverted them using jumper cables.
I got the home button to work by putting jumper cables directly to the UFB, but I would like to use the pins on the left. Does anyone know the schematic for these? More specifically I’m looking for a ground pin, a 3 volt pin (to make the led next to the home button light up), and the home button pin. Here’s a pic of what I’m talking about.
So if anyone knows which of those pins are:
GND
Home
3v/vcc
that would be greatly appreciated.
Edit: Nevermind, figured it out. Panthera EZ mod working perfectly with xbone Atrox with a few jumper cables. Every feature works including lock button/LEDs etc:
I’ve managed to install the EZmod on a TES+:
http://i.imgur.com/BuoYZ4Zl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ersbL2Sl.jpg
I had to remove the punch/kick connector (too high), replaced it with a classic pin-header and made my own dupont to JST connectors (and also replace right angle JST for straight ones)
http://i.imgur.com/D7C9S3Zm.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/yMHWQhdm.jpg
Not sure if it was the best way to do it, but it worked. 
I did the same thing at EVO last year… it took a bit of work (which is why I dont recommend it) but it does work. The TES+ EZ MOD coming this fall will make it far easier and cleaner 
Hi Jasen, am I correct to understand that if I were to mod my Killer Instinct TE2 XB1 stick with the EZ Mod + UFB combo, that the installation is exactly the same as the installation video on your TE2 XB1? Finger’s hovering over the “buy” button on Arcadeshock at the moment. 
Its not “exactly” the same… but its pretty close. I didnt do the light board hack in that video.
That being the case, if I wire the LED PCB into the EZ MOD, everything else would work except the button wont light up? I’m okay with that. Or I’ll just bypass the LED board altogether. I just need the KI XB1 stick to work on PS4 and PC, since I’ve sold off the XB1. It should work, right?
If you wire the EZ MOD board and LED Board together, the lights won’t light. Everything else works. The LED board can be lit (only ON or OFF with EZ MOD) if you look a few posts up at the beginning on the “hack” to do it. Its a software controlled item that I didn’t incorporate into the EZ MOD for a variety of reasons, the main being re purposing the HAPTIC button to be something else by jumper.
Roger that. I’m happy enough that the KI stick can be used back again. Missing the LED lights is fine with me.