I have 8.1 & i think its pretty awesome. I only had 8 for like less then a day so i really dont know what were the changes. I have a 2 touchscreen setup though, i think Win 8/8.1 would be annoying without it.
Hey guys, I want to make plans on building my first pc. I want to have a gaming computer that is able to last for at least 2-3 years before I need to upgrade individual parts. I also want to try to keep it under $1,000 if possible but I am willing to go to $1500. Right now I am looking through pcpartpicker.com and trying to pick parts for a build but I’m feeling a bit lost. I was wondering if anybody would be willing to give some guidance on what to look for?
Get two Titans, you’ll really need the graphic power.
Also, I’m still on win7, because it’s good so why do I need win8? These are the mysteries.
In all seriousness to build a PC you need:
Mobo
CPU
Ram
Graphics Card
PSU (get a good psu, like a tier 1)
Case (ground mounted PSU is a must)
In this day and age you’ll notice that cases and mobos are labelled in such a way that they indicate what CPU chip-series they’re compatible with, so just look for a CPU you want and then go from there.
For the record I strongly believe that everyone should be using an AMD FX-8350 for their CPU. Unless you can reason as to why you need an i7 (like you render shit)
I only have one piece of advice. Go Intel. Seriously.
If that’s your one piece of advice, please keep it to yourself unless you can give some actual good reasoning behind it.
Because at face value, it speaks volumes to myself and others that you don’t know what you are talking about.
In the long run, for most folks I like to say there no real difference between Intel and AMD.
Its a Coke vs Pepsi issue, for the average Joe there no difference. You will have people going to be loyal to one brand or another.
I went with AMD cause the dollar to performance ratio is better (a.k.a. you get more for your money).
Intel does do better at high performance benchmarks, but at a higher dollar value. A good Intel CPU can cost 5 times as more than its AMD equivalent.
Best thing to do is do some of your own homework, we can recomend CPU for you intil were blue in the face, but to make a smart choice you should see what these diffrences are your self.
That said I recommend Tom’s hardware
Once you pick out your CPU, you can pick your mother board, Ram, Video, Case,
I leave the PSU for last as you want your PSU to provide much more Watts than what your system will require.
Hey guys, I’ve got a quick question for everyone. I just bought this but haven’t opened it yet. I was thinking that it might be worth the extra $$$ to get the next model up in the same line. Thoughts? I am going to be doing some light gaming, light video editing, and streaming from it.
I completely agree with you on CPUs, It’s just personal preference in 90% of scenarios, the last 10% of cases depend on what you do, Intel is better at Single-Threaded performance, AMD performs better at Multi-Threaded Performance. That may or may not effect you.
…But I don’t believe that you need a PSU with “excess” wattage. I mean, you don’t necessarily want to run a 430W PC on a 430W PSU, but you don’t need an 850W either. You should get what you think you’ll need for your build. PCPartPicker has a very reliable power calculator, and once it is complete, add about 100W to that, and you should be fine(unless you intend to SLI/Crossfire down the line). It’s better to get a lower power, higher quality PSU, than getting a poor-quality 1000W PSU and putting it in a build that doesn’t need it.
Also, I’ve seen a high quality “750W” PSU push over 1.2KW(and still stable) in a stress test at higher efficiency than a poor quality 1 KW PSU pushed 1 KW, but your mileage may vary. That said, do not try this sort of thing for everyday use. Just because it can provide extra power doesn’t mean you want it to, this was done in a controlled test environment, not with standard components. A supply being rated at 500W means it should be able to provide that much power without issue(and most likely, more, but this voids warranty), but connector availability can also be a factor. Get a PSU rated for a bit more than what you need(a power supply is generally least efficient at full load), but don’t think you should buy a 1.5KW PSU just because you can.
TLDR: Buy quality of power, not quantity.
Also, Pepsi and Coke do not taste the same. Coke is much better.
From what I see, its the same screen, battery, processor , hard drive and OS, only the ram is different.
For gaming you never fully use that 12 gb of ram, so the 16 gb is a waste.
if you are doing light amounts of video I say save the $400.
If you are doing heavy video editing then the upgrade would be reasonable. Ram is valuable in video encoding and time it takes.
I would treat streaming like I would video editing.
Anyways you can just always upgrade the ram in the laptop later on.
Keep the current Laptop, you do not need the more pricier model.
[s]I’m having issues with skullgirls encore, I have a feeling the change in frameskip somehow fucked everything up.
Like trainingmode is unplayable, anyone else having issues?[/s]
Nevermind, I started it again and it magically worked. PC gaming master race indeed.
There is another slight difference… the model he bought has the 765m (2 gig) and the other has 770m (3 gig)
I agree to save the 400… that bump (although not bad) is NOT worth the cost.
I have a problem regarding my pc. It was working fine last night and when I turned it on today, there was no POST beep sound and the video would not display.
I can turn it on using the case power button, but holding the power button does not turn the computer off. It has worked fine in the past but today it is not working. The fans, case LEDs, and motherboard LED all work but the computer itself won’t go further than powering on.
I built this PC in December and I was wondering if I should just buy a new MOBO, CPU, or both? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Reset your bios. If possible test your PSU.
Speaking of new builds, just booted mine for the first time today. My mobo failed me in December and since it was a LGA1366 it would’ve cost me a fortune to find a replacement mobo so it ended up being cheaper to get a new processor and mobo.
New build:
ASRock z87 killer
i7-4770k
8 gigs Mushkin Redline Enhanced (waiting for my friend to get the other sticks of ram for more)
2 SLIed GTX 480’s
It should be nice to upgrade from the i7-920 and gtx 280.
Thanks NSC, resetting the BIOS did the trick
Not to be rude, but next time try google. Especially since you knew there wasn’t any POST beeps you would’ve found the BIOS reset within 10 seconds rather than waiting for my post.
Nah, you’re not being rude, I appreciate the help. I did google search but it gave me different results and I didn’t see one for BIOS reset. Breadboarding , faulty motherboard, and testing the PSU were the ones I frequently saw. I spent like an hour googling but didn’t see anything about resetting the BIOS. Maybe I need to enhance my Google skills.
Ouch man. I stand by it though, it might cost more initially but it’s worth it in the long run. Guess it depends what you use your PC for but I thought this was more enthusiast oriented.
if good reasoning can back up your advice, then by all means share it. How is it worth it in the long run? What would they be better suited for?
Blanket statements are far too often used when talking about computer components, software or brands and more often then not they are made by folks that don’t know any better.
Plenty of enthusiasts use amd in their rigs
I would argue that enthusiasts wouldn’t get the mileage out of intel and thus the price bump would be wasted dollars.