I can see why you will keep the case , it is a master piece of engineering.
I Due understand there now a USB 3.0 upgrade kit for it.
I have an Intel HD 4000 in my current computer. I don’t actually use it, but I’ve tested it with AE for fun.
Firstly I turned everything to medium except AA and vsync, both were off. Everything worked pretty good except for sprites, such as when some fireball animations start up or any time E.Ryu is on the screen at all (those flames all around him). It struggled to get 50 fps then and when lots of hits started happening that dipped. I turned it mostly up to high and found that I was getting unstable but still mostly getting 60 fps unless a sprite was on screen.
So I would have been unsatisfied with it had I not had a real GPU. I don’t think the 4400 is much stronger.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
For sure, something with a dedicated graphics card would definitely be able to run these games MUCH better, but this question stems from a very specific situation: I’m on the fence about buying a Surface Pro 2 (say what you want about it, but I think it’s pretty nifty). Obviously, it’s definitely not a real “gaming” unit, but it’d definitely sweeten the deal if SF4 and SFxT (but mainly SF4) could run smoothly on it. Hell, I felt that the toned-down visuals of SSF4 on the 3DS was completely playable, so I’d even be willing to drop the resolution and detail level in favor of gameplay speed and framerate.
I just think the concept of portability would be at its best here: tablet + arcade stick = portable Street Fighter.
For the $900 price tag, I would go for an actual laptop instead of a tablet parading as a laptop.
But that is my own bias.
I really hate Intel integrated graphics too, I got nothing but bad experiences when it comes with theses and gaming. They are perfectly fine for videos, internet and office work
Yeah the newer models are improved, but Intel (the company) never really cared about gaming and do not put it into consideration when they design there graphics hardware.
Okay, my post got deleted.
I was going to say that a tablet would probably have bad battery life, but should still work, and I forgot to mention earlier that turning off particle effects is important for Intel GPUs.
So i tried the parts pickers, what do you guys think?
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/rcaido/saved/2N3A
Unless you’re going to use that i7 for a workstation computer, you could just get an i5 4670K and get the same results, video games today don’t benefit from hyperthreaded quad core processors and if they ever do then by the time that happens then it will be for processors far more powerful than today’s i7s.
You could probably get a 600 or 550 watt power supply instead, unless you are planning SLI or lots of other upgrades in the future.
Its going to be mostly a video editing PC, games is secondary…Is there any other changes? I have very little knowledge w/ PC/building…I just looked at the reviews & added them haha.
If this is for legit work, I’d skip the SSD. They can die after a year or two and you don’t want a client’s two thirds finished product on there when that happens.
You can use DDR3 1866 and will see a performance boost from it, but not much at stock CPU speeds. You’d have to overclock your processor’s bus frequency by a sixth to get best results.
There isn’t much of a reason to get that motherboard, imo. It advertises that is accepts DDR3 1866 but really that’s through overclocking, and every Z87 mobo can do that. Just get one of the cheaper ones:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138380
Actually that isn’t a bad choice of PC parts over all.
As long as his work saved to the 3TB HDD and not the SSD drive even if the SSD drive dies the TD drive would be fine.
Even if rcaido doesn’t go with the SSD, having a second HDD for file storage is a smart move.
You can get away with a cheaper smaller drive for the primary HDD where the OS sits on and the 2nd HDD is larger for video files
What I do to addition of what you have already, have a external back up drive the same size as your larger file storage hdd
If something goes up, all your work is backed up. Rcaido can even get a networked storage drive that automatically backs up all his work once a week, day or what ever he sets it to at a time he not be expected to use his PC (like 2 am)
His case does have a window, so appearance is important to him. Looking at his parts list, he has a black and red color scheme. A blue motherboard wouldn’t fit his color scheme. It might not be worth the extra cost to you, but with a larger budget it’s usually not a huge deal.
If SSD durability is that much of a concern, Two SSDs in RAID1 would almost completely eliminate the possibility of data loss. However, it is also worth noting that at 250gb, a full backup of that SSD could easily fit on the 3TB HDD, and could be done nightly, if need be.
That said, when you deal with large quantities of drives,** failures are expected. ** Whether you have 25 SSDs or 25 HDDs, chances are at least one is going to fail prematurely. SSD’s get more hate because they’re “new” but for all intents and purposes they are more durable than SSDs. In fact, SSD Failure rates under warranty is only 1.5%, compared to a 5% failure rate for HDDs.
But if you want to talk about Data reliability, I must mention that for any data you truly care about, you should have at least three copies, in at least two formats, and at least one should be offsite(often referred to as the 3-2-1 rule). It if isn’t, that data is never “safe.” That means you would probably have the files on your HDD(format one), and then you have it on an external drive(also HDD, still only one format), and then you should back up to “the cloud” (2nd format, and offsite). This would meet all criteria. There’s a bunch of ways to do this, but I find this one easiest. There are a multitude of “cloud storage” services available, and many of which cost no more than a large coffee at starbucks.
So should i change anything from my build? Let me know as im planning to make my order soon. Also, what tools would i need to have? Any advice on what not to do? Thanks so far.
Looks legit to me.
I’m not saying a hard drive lives forever, but if I was putting a work computer together then I’d want something more proven, and this computer has two drives, not 50.
rcaido, if you’re going for looks like Yoshi suggested then you can go ahead and get the mobo you picked out. I figured you went for that one because it’s the only mobo on newegg that’s in stock and listed for DDR3 1866, which again every Z87 mobo can do. Other than that I reiterate that the PSU is unnecessary.
You’ll probably just need a phillips screwdriver unless something unusual happens. A friend once got an aftermarket heatsink and had a problem where it was so large it was trying to occupy the same space as his RAM, so we had to remove the plastic on the RAM. This is unusual, though.
Before you start, put your hand on a table or desk or something to ground yourself. You don’t want to shock your components (the static build up, ie walking around with socks on carpet), if you touch your motherboard and feel a slight shock then you have probably ruined the motherboard. While working inside the case, keep your arm touching some metal in the case, this will help keep you from shocking parts. Alternatively, you can go buy an anti-static wristband, I got one from my college’s book store for $3. You still have to ground yourself on a table while putting it on, but after that you don’t have to worry about it.
When applying your heat sink, it will want to add a bracket/plate to your motherboard, so do this part before putting the motherboard in the case. You’ll probably have to put the processor in the motherboard, and then put the heatsink on before you put the motherboard in the case. You have to put some of the thermal paste the heatsink comes with on the processor before applying the heatsink, it’s the little syringe-like tube. DON’T use the whole tube, you just need a little squirt, about two grains of rice worth of paste, they give you way more than you need. After you put the little dab on then put the heatsink on and screw/fasten. EDIT: so in summary, plate on mobo => processor in mobo => dab on processor => heatsink on processor, screwed in
The rest of putting a computer together is pretty easy, if you can put legos together then you can figure out a computer.
Cool thanks for the info, im wondering if i should just wait for Cyber Monday.
There is no such thing as having a Power Supply Unit that is over rated, only those which are under rated.
From my experiences you never want the minimum rated Watt PSU for your system.
Lab bench tests and real world results differ and Power Supply units are only grantee to be 80% efficient (depending who you talk to, for me I rather take the safe bet).
Also as your system heats up your PC components and parts become less and less effective, including your PSU.
So lets say on paper rcaido PC will have a drawl of (for the purpose of this thread going to make up a number) 433 watts. He shouldn’t be looking at a 433 or a 450 watt PSU, he should get at least a 500 watt.
You fine with always having a stronger PSU than what you need, you are in trouble if your PSU is under, that cases system failure and possibly damage to your various PC parts and components.
I usually use the following online calculator to figure your raw watt requirements, the calc here should be used as a rough guide rather than exact messurement.
http://images10.newegg.com/BizIntell/tool/psucalc/index.html?gclid=CLSru83i37oCFdRlOgodkW0AtQ&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords--Branding--Products-_-newegg-power-supply-calculator&ef_id=Un0EqwAABDPnTB0S:20131112172728:s
From that I like add 30 watts and round up to the next biggest PSU that could supply that.
Rcaido’s estimated power drawl according to that calc is 655 W
655 + 30 = 685, round that up to the next biggest PSU and that would be 700.
So a 700 watt PSU is Fine for Rcaido needs, If anything he could go up too a 800 watt PSU as it will not hurt at all.
I had a guy ask me if it was ok to run two 380 watt PSUs to power one computer, now this is a very different situation, but remarkably similar.
Don’t skimp on the PSU, it’s that simple. Everyone has a budget sure, but the PSU is the foundation of your computer, not the mobo, not the cpu. Everything relies on your PSU, this is why people exclusively buy ground-mount cases, this is why PSUs aren’t cheap. You don’t want to compromise an entire system because you skimped out on the most important part.
Agreed. its the PSU not the CPU that is the heart of the PC. its also the last part I will pick out or select for your build just top make sure the PSU is up to snuff.
As you notice with Rcaido’s build I intentionally round up on everything, having a too low/weak of a PSU is like having a weak heart in a person, it can’t take all the stress.
You can have cascading system failures where somehow everything finds a way to fry it self, one after another. And I seen it happen before.
If you scroll back on page 8, you can see in a open case shot of my own PC, that is a 850 watt PSU in a PC that barely needs 600. I had a older PSU that was closer the minimum and I was starting to have issues.
Luckily for me only the PSU died, so I decided for a replacement PSU I decided to get a more beefy unit.
What about stuff upstream of the PSU? Like a UPS or surge protectors?
I’ll admit, I skimped hard on my PSU, but I don’t do any rendering, I don’t do any major video editting.
I code, I game, I went with one of the corsair builder series (it was on sale at the time too), I made sure I had enough for my graphics card, my mobo, my drives.
So when I say skimped I mean: I picked a trusted brand, picked wattage that would handle my system
That’s really the best option if you’re on a tough budget.