where do i get the disconnects for the jap buttons? the really small ones.
Woodshop 101 with the Mind Taker: Ghetto Technique
For me it was just easier to place a guide board along the lines that was drawn to cut along of. Just use clamps or nail both boards together. Got pretty much straight lines.
maybe somewhere along the line between the start button and the next button, the ground disconnected. that assuming that your ground ran from each button the the next.
I was just wondering if using .250" Female Quick Disconnects will work on Competition buttons. I’m trying to go solderless on a InterAct Shadowblade and I couldn’t find .187" Quick Disconnects at Fry’s. Speaking of which, if anyone has worked on a Shadowblade: what did you do for the start and select buttons?
I haven’t worked on a Shadowblade, but I owned one for about a week before I sent it back, and I do know it didn’t work withmy Dreamcast through a converter, so if you want to use it on DC you may want to think twice. I don’t know what modifications you’re making, so it may be you’re taking out the part that caused the conflict (i’m assuming it was the programeable/relocateable buttons feature) and it also may be not all controllers work with all controllers, but my instinct would be to avoid the shadowblade if possible.
woody woodpecker
doesnt sanding and painting then clearcoating protect the wood good enough? i mean, the joysticks are in the house not exposed to the elements.did you tell that carpenter exactly what you were doing w/ the wood…because its not exposed to the elements…unless you have termites in your house. but by then, i’d worry about your roof falling on your head before hitting fp too hard breaking your stick…
also…most sticks are made w/ plexi on top further protecting it…i just dont see a problem using different types of wood…i know that particle is more dense compared other types of wood…and it is whats used in arcades, right?
5 years a good life span? Yeah right! I think Particle board takes the cake here.
Also, I have to thank RANDoM_MAI for pointing out
www.levelsix.com because that not only has the PS/2 - USB adapter, but it also has the PS/2 - USB and PS/2 - NGC adapters, which also interest us.
I still gotta say I feel lucky to have gotten my P360 for a mere $25 or so.
woody woodpecker
I’m not about to get into a debate on the subject, because honestly, I don’t care enough about it, but I will give some thoughts on the subject because I’m bored.
If you live in a coastal area, the wood doesn’t have to be exposed to the elements for it to start absorbing ambient moisture.
Sanding and painting then clearcoating to protect the wood is not good enough if the wood is particle board. Particle board is not really a board, it is wood chips and cellulose pressed and glued together using formaldehyde. Because the wood is compressed, over time it will eventually expand. Moisture will speed up this process, but even particle board that is cared for in a dry environment will expand and lose the strength over time.
Real wood is not compressed, or processed using formaldehyde. It will not expand over time.
This is why you can find a 10 year old pressboard acoustic guitar in a pawnshop that has the bridge pulling from the body. The pressboard loses strength over time. Acoustic guitars made from solid sheets of real wood gain value over time because the wood dries out, and becomes stronger if they were taken care of properly.
yes thats true because I have a particle board table and the edges are starting to expand after 7-8 years. Particle boards are really nasty, its hard to get a clean surface sanded on them. Go with real wood or mdf. I think my next stick i will use real wood.
How do you cut plexi glass???
i’m not trying to turn this into a debate… read my post, it was full of questions…i’m just trying to figure this out…
isnt particle the stuff they use in the arcades?or somthing very similar…i’ve seen some destroyed cabinets but are mostly due to the fact that there are way to many idiots playing games messing w/ cabinets…i’ve seen my share of busted cabinets and cracked plexi…blame it on those dumbasses…
but particle is more dense than lets day regular wood, right? corerct me if i’m wrong here.does this affect performance?..has anyone used real wood in a stick, because i’ve always used particle…i buy the $5 sheet and can make about 2 sticks…let me know…i might try using something different my next time around…
I scored it wid a utility knife and snapped it. Worked for me without breaking it. This was really thin plexiglass though (0.09 inches). Lexan is a lot easier to work with since its almost as durable as wood.
THe guy at home depot told me lexan is harder to drill though since its pretty much like bullet proof glass.
Hey guys I just finished my Custom Arcade Stick a couple of months ago and use it all the time. I will up some pictures of it as soon as I can. I would right now but the artwork on the thing isn’t done. It works on DC, PS2, PC (USB), and X-Box. The great thing is the button layout for it is the standard SF format but then has 2 more buttons on the left hand side for NG use. The buttons are all horizontal microswitch and the sticks are Ultimate 8-way arcadesticks. Oh yeah and the bitch is HUGE!!! I mean this thing has a lot of elbow room so no more bumping into your friend. Thanx.
-See Ya!!!
When working on a SONY brand psx stick (no analog) is it neccessary to cut away any kind of connection when soldering unto the buttons or the controller??? Also do I have to cut away the black plastic material on the ground?? thnx in advance
_Jay
Hey Yoshi2k2, just to tell you, it isn’t good to use Sony brand controllers to make your sticks. Hard to hack them because I heard they have multiple grounds and also they cover all their copper wiring points with plastic or rubber to prevent ripping and wearing down of copper. If you want a good controller to hack go to your local EB and get a hold of some PSX 1000s they are only like $3-$5 each and easy as hell to hack. That is what is in my stick and they work great. Also if you need some extra controllers I have some pre-hacked controllers that I would be willing to sell for PS2, just PM me. Thanx.
-See Ya!!!
Yes!!! I finally got my buttons soldered to the crappy DC enforcer circuit board and it works!!! But all i need now is a joystick. Is anyone selling a competition joystick(with mircoswitch’s) and if so how much would it cost including shipping?
If you are gonna buy just one comp. stick, I think the best place to buy is Therealbobroberts.com. I think that’s the website. Check the first couple of pages on this thread. The service is really fast.
I recommend Mad Catz PCBs actually. Mostly just because their shit’s easy to mess with and you’ll get a high quality, transparent, braided lattice cord to go with it.
Today in electronics we starting dissecting the controllers, and soldering wires onto them. So far it’s been easy and when we tested the PCBs and quick-wired sticks in GGXX, they worked well, which pleased us. I don’t know what kind of controller Adam is using, but the first one he tried he fucked up and in anger he straight up broke the PCB, :lol: but that’s because we have like 50 PCBs (what’s one less?). I think he’s using a Sony Dualshock PCB, and I haven’t noticed any rubbery plasticy stuff you (Hellfromabove) speak of. Either way, even if it had that stuff, I doubt it would be difficult to remove. I’m using a Mad Catz Dual Force 2 PCB, and it’s been satisfying thus far. Easy to solder for me.
Does anyone have anything to say about Ultimate Pushbuttons? My friends and I all prefer concave buttons and I was wondering if Ultimates were good. So feedback here would be helpful. I’ll be ordering the rest of our stuff soon, so what is mentioned of the pushbuttons may affect what I purchase. I think we will have few difficulties with this project except woodwork still… and time is always a haunting thing to be aware of. My last day of school is June 4th, so we basically have 8 days to work on the project in class (due to block scheduling). Sounds like not enough time, but these are 88 minute classes, and plus with our school’s homeroom resource periods, we can add an extra 60 mintues or so each gold day (as we call them). Thusly, we have ~1,184 hours of in-class time. So really, I feel we will have enough time to complete all 4 sticks.