thats not exactly a custom stick…
What exactly is top mounting, and how would you do it? I’m guessing it’s when you mount the joystick from above the top panel instead of underneath it, but i have no idea how that would work without drilling a huge hole.
Any help would be nice.
As you said, the way to do it is to mount from the top of the panel. To do this you must route out an area on the top where the mounting plate would fit into and then secure it into the wood. That’s all top mounting is.
~Paik
Can i solder onto a ps2 pad the same way as on a ps1 pad? I’m just wondering since iirc, ps2 pads are analog.
So how does the mounting plate for the Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT compare with the mounting plate for the Seimitsu LS-32 in size and location of screw holes?
The Sanwa stick I got turned out to be useless after I took it on the plane with me to the UK, so I have to buy either a new Sanwa or a Seimitsu. I’m leaning toward Seimitsu because I generally like harder springs and less throw, but the problem is that I’ve already constructed the stick and everything for the Sanwa. If the Seimitsu base is different enough that it wouldn’t fit in the hole I’ve made in the wood and metal in my stick, then I’ll just go with a Sanwa again. Anyone know whether they’re interchangeable?
If you go to Akihabara Shop and go to Joystick Accessories, you will see all the different mounting plates. Per recently made schematics for every single mounting plate availabe so that will help you out.
The short answer is that JLF and LS32 do not closely match at all.
~Paik
How do you get custom graphics on your stick? Do certain stores offer a screening that can get a picture off my computer onto the wood?
print it on (photo) paper and put it under a plexi / lexan panel 
dunno about your second question though. but it would be cool lol
Are you sure a piecer of computer paper is the size of a stick enclosure? Doesn’t seem like it would be.
RushingMonkey is right. That’s what I do for all my custom sticks. If the face of your stick is bigger than 8.5x11 then you obviously need to get a bigger print at like Kinkos.
~Paik
So how do you keep it looking nice if you have to put holes in it to get the stick/ buttons through?
well, I think the most common method is to use the plexi panel as a blueprint and cut the holes on the artwork with a cutter. the bezels of the buttons cover up the edge of your holes so it’s not a big problem if they don’t look thaaaaat nice.
Thank you!
I didnt want to make a new thread so ill ask here. Is there a list somewhere of the current custom stick makers/sellers? I am purchasing a new stick with my next paycheck and i wanted a custom one made.
Thank you
I actually compiled a list of current builders on another forum (where I am a mod) just a couple of days ago. Go here:
http://www.tekkenzaibatsu.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=95468
Go to Post #2. The first post is information on where to buy game related goods like parts, machines, PCBs, etc. The 2nd post is what you’re looking for.
Also, you can check the SRK Trading Outlet as well here:
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=226
~Paik
I’ve been building sticks for over 10 years now, but I recently started messing with Sanwa parts, and I"m hitting some issues.
Button issues:
First off, I’m using Sanwa 30mm screw types in 3 different type panels. Metal (18 guage steel) MDF 1/2 inch but routed down to a little under 1/4 inch where the buttons mount, and hardwood (high quality Braziallain Teak hardwood flooring) this stuff is super-dense.
No matter how tight I get the plastic nuts (and I"ve tried flipping the nut over) they vibrate loose after about 1-6 hours of playtime. I’m thinking of using some light thread-locking compound or teflon tape. I do want to be able to get this shit back apart at some point. Any suggestions?
I’m using .110 slide on connectors as well, and those are seeming to do the same thing… vibrate loose after intense gaming. Is there a particualr type that works best for sanwas? can you use .187’s? I don’t want to solder them to the terminals…
Joystick issues:
I’m using a Sanwa JLF with an 8 way. I have the wiring haness ground soldered directly to the pad, and I have tried running the button chain ground to the same spot, a different spot, and even adding up to a total of 4 different grounds back to the pad. I"m still getting a glitch. This DOES NOT happen on my old school Happ P360. I’m only playing GGXX/ right now. And this is not a case of me missing the input either. I’m very ‘combo proficient’
Anyway, I’ve noticed it very specifically with HCF and QCF moves. In particular Ky’s Stun Dipper (QCF+Kick, 236K) and Stun Edge (QCF+Slash, 236S) You can also do a full half circle and the input will work fine and well. Anyway, it seems that if you do the input on the exact frame and hit the button at the same frame as the stick passes from 3 to 6 position, it skips the 3, so the input reader at the bottom of the screen in training mode reads 2,6,K, thus Ky does only his 6K. I tried testing this with a full HCF as well. when I did the Kick a touch after 3, I got the move, but again if what felt like just frame the K, the input read 4,2,6,K, insted of the full 41236K.
It seems to skip corners. I’m using a PS original Non-analog Official Sony Pad. The wires aren’t excessively long, in fact, they are very short, only as long as necessary to go from the pad to the button. My wiring work is VERY clean.
If I circle the stick as fast as possible, the input shows me over and over that it’s hitting all directions.
Any experienced builders have any ideas? It’s pissing me off. I prefer Sanwa parts now that I’ve used them, but if I can’t get rid of this glitch, I’m gonna have to go back to P360’s. It actually affects gameplay. I can remember at least 10 times last night in 4 hours of play, not getting a QCF move to come out. Just to see if I could do it once years ago, I tred to see how many fireballs in a row I could throw with Ryu. I quit at 2500. I also quit at 1000 doing Cr. MK xx Fireball, so I highly doubt it’s my playing error. Anyway, really appriciate any thoughts on this one.
Thanks guys!
-Tad
Ok, first off, try sanding the bottom of the materials you listed so the button nuts have something for the teeth to grab onto. Maybe 60 grit. Also, the teflon tape sounds like a decent idea.
For the quick disconnect problem, what kind are you using (brand)? I noticed some of the cheaper ones slip off easier and a quick squeeze with a pair of needle nose pliers will fix that problem. Also, when slipping the QDs onto the tabs, make sure they go all the way down. With the QDs I use the fit is very tight and sometimes requires the use of the pliers again. Here’s the ones I use. They work great.
For the wiring problem, some pics of your setup would help. I’ve made sticks with the sony digital pad without any problems including a couple used with GG/. I don’t believe the length of the wire matters much. Try replacing the pad with a 3rd party and see if it does the same. The SFAC pad is easy to hack and is perfect for non-converter joysticks.
Been making sticks for 10 years? Let’s see some pics. They gotta be looking really good by now.
Peace.
NW
Ok, just got this done, Nite. Go to www.TenKaiGear.com and check the sticks tab at the top. I’ve recently ‘come out of retirement.’ so It’s more fair to say I"ve started doing it 10 years ago, but I’ve been inactive for quite a while. 
I’ve figured out the problem with the QD’s… I didn’t crimp the first set on, rather soldered the wires, with a really old tip. The connectors will not slide all the way down and some of them are just way too loose. The teflon tape is holding pretty well, along with the light sanding you suggested. Thanks so much for that idea. I’m going to order a few hundred of the QD’s you suggested as well.
I just tested the glitch I was having in CVS2. Same thing there as well. Confusing. Only thing I can think of is that the ground chain on the buttons are 18 guage wire, and the ground wire off the pad to the buttons is 24g. I’m too ‘self taught’ to know all the intricacies of how the pads really work and how many amps and volts etc… Anyway, any advice or feedback would be most appreciated.
Is it possible to fit a sanwa without shaft swapping, inside a doa4 hori stick?I think I saw some guy who had done that, but I cant find the link anymore.Anyone can help?
Alpha Kami, I’ll check out the pics and see what I can come up with. I’m not sure if the wire gauge matters much. Maybe though.