I have two sfac joysticks and a stand built for them to sit on. They have been used continuously for almost two yrs now… One of them still works perfectly, however the joystick on the second one is very sticky. Is there a quick fix for this or do i need to replace the bat entirely?
Also occasionally the leads will pop off the buttons… they can put back on but i haven’t figured out a way to crimp them down tight… any suggestions?
great thread i particularly like looking at everyones custom sticks… they are abosultely f*ing amazing.
Yup you need to cut it exactly to size. so when you put it in its tight in the recess. If done properly you can even use snapins without fear of your lexan/acrylic moving.
Also if you use metal or ply for your top panel it will be flatter than wood, this helps too.
Stupid question, is it possible to take the ‘wiring’ of a HRAP1 and re-wire with a PS1 dual shock controller, you know so I can play games on the computer with it and all that?
Yo, I don’t normally asks questions in my own thread, but I just finished a generic Agetec -> PSX mod. Everything works great, but for buttons 1 and 4 (jab/short) They are beginning to stick and I have to open up my agetec to push out the top button and pull up on the white square like spring thingy to move it again. I can’t press the two buttons too hard or else they get stuck. It’s not a cleaning issue or the button is sticky issue, it’s the white square shit that is pressed down into the black housing that holds the nc/no (connects to the mini white harness that gets stuck. Any suggestions? I can’t even tap them lightly. I tried prying the little black harness thing open to look for spring inside or something else but I couldn’t get to and was afraid that if I tried to hard it’ll break…
The buttons are probably at the end of their life cycle. If at all possible, replace with real sanwa buttons. Here’s a good source for buttons and he ships quick: http://stores.ebay.com/plm171_ARCADE-PARTS_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ98918QQftidZ2QQtZkm
Because the buttons don’t have a traditional spring like Happ buttons (they have the white rubber things you mentioned; much like the rubber “springs” in game pads), they wear out over time. And it’s also the reason they’re so sensitive too.
I definitely recommend replacing with sanwa buttons if you’re using the stock buttons.
There’s nothing wrong with asking questions in your own thread! We’re all here to help and learn. :rock:
I’ve heard the HRAPs are ok for converters. But even if they aren’t, Original/CFJ HRAPs use wires with quick disconnects, so some shenannigans with a soldering iron should be able to make it work with Dual Shocks.
I’ve got an HRAP (supposedly) coming to me in the mail soon, so I’ll keep ya updated. If it doesn’t lag like crazy on the SmartJoy, it should be good to go.
I’ve had my HRAP1 for two years now (I think) and it’s always lagged on converters. I’m not one to touch the inner workings of it either (I’d likely fuck it up) and I’m basically trying to ween myself off of pad all together, hence my asking.
If soldering would alleivate the problem then all the better, please keep me updated.
Wow, I can’t believe they’d go that far to achieve a flawless finish. That’s just crazy. I guess you’d use a ply panel for screw-ins and a metal one for snap-ins. No harm in trying, if it fails just bolt the lexan down.
If you have a router just use the stock metal plate with a flush trim bit and a spacer and you’ll get an exact copy. No sanding needed.
Cut the lexan to rough shape. It’s a good idea to use a backer of 1/2" MDF to give the lexan support as it’s normally very flexible. Secure the 2 together with double sided heavy duty carpet tape. The easiest way to roughcut the blank is to trace the metal plate on the lexan/MDF and then use a jigsaw to cut close to the line but not touching. The reason for this is that you’ll get a much cleaner cut if the router doesn’t have much material to remove.
Double stick tape a piece of 1/2" (or 3/4" or whatever you have) MDF to the roughcut on the MDF side (underneath). This piece should be close to the roughcut size but smaller so the routerbit has no contact with it.
Double stick tape the metal plate to the piece you just taped on.
Put another piece of MDF like in step 2 on the metal plate.
Your sandwich is complete. Go pour a glass of code red and enjoy your sandwich.
J/K
This is what your sandwich should look like.
In order:
Lexan
MDF stiffener
Undersized spacer
Metal Plate
Undersized spacer.
Here’s the reason for each layer.
This is the lexan. The piece you are shaping.
MDF stiffener. No need this to prevent mangling your lexan.
Undersized spacer. Because the metal plate is so thin, you need some space for the flush trim bit’s bearing to properly ride against it.
Metal Plate. Call it the master template. This is what the flush trim bit’s bearing rides against to cut the MDF/Lexan blank above.
Another undersized spacer. So the bottom of the router bit doesn’t hit your workbench/table.
Now, how to do it.
Securely clamp the sandwich to a workbench or table. Use 2 clamps.
Set the router bit’s depth so the bearing rides on the metal plate. Try to position it so that the metal plate is riding against the center of the bearing. Less chance for a screwup this way.
Start at the front edge of the blank to the right of the first clamp and rout around counter-clockwise.
When you get to the other side (the left clamp), you’ll have to reposition and reclamp the blank to the table. Since all the layers are double taped together, you don’t have to worry about your lexan moving.
Finish the cut, remembering to rout in a counterclockwise direction always.
Thanks. That was what I was afraid of… replacing the damn buttons. With EVO around the corner, I’ll have to settle to use my modded Pelican arcade for 3S instead of my Pl-Agetec-tion (Plaguetection, whatever lol)
He more than likely used A series solderless hack or some pads also don’t need to be wired. For examples some PCBs have wires coming directly off the PCB and go to the buttons (especially arcade style sticks like Xbox Reflex). So you could just splice some wires, or just cut the wires leading to the buttons and just crimp QDs on the end of them.
