Well shit, I’m on it then.
bump*
cant decide the theme of my new stick yet. brazil or nismo themed…hmm
Anniversary stick
Can someone explain… I have a modded anniversary stick with Happ parts. On MY PS2 and xbox it works fine. Yet on other Ps2’s it wont work. Ive checked all my connects and wires they look good. I have 2 of them both modded with Happs. I know Nuby made 2 different anniversary sticks.
They changed the box, wires, and the added lotsa GLUE.
Also would a modded PS2 have any thing to do with it? Mines not modded but when I went to a tourney their PS2 was.
I worked hard on this stick even tho its not from scratch but I made it a six button with new plexi and put the start select on the side. Nice and clean looking.
Play a game that uses lots of rumble. If normal gamepads don’t rumble then you’ve probably blown a fuse. For some reason multi-console sticks like to use that circuit to get power. I had a similar problem with my v12 ps2 and my pelican real arcade joystick. I wound up tracking down the blown fuse and bypassing it instead of replacing it (it’s tiny).
well, I opened this one. Inside it’s ALL SEIMITSU!
the stick is undoubtely a LS56-01. The buttons, I think they are PS-14-G.
However, I’m having some problems with it. I’m using an Innovation adaptor PS/DC. Motions like with sent: laser, fly/unfly is unaccurate. Overall, it’s difficult to hit 2 buttons at once and get a clean response. I switched to a T5 and I didn’t miss a thing! My guesses:
1- the buttons’ solder is broken
2- the PCB is damaged
3- the voltage! it says 3.45V, 10mA, is it ok?
Inside it’s like a Namco Arcade Stick (that little one with yellow buttons) the buttons are soldered directly to a PCB.
What is the exact size of the drillbit to make holes to fit convex buttons?
Is home depot the best place to get them for a low price, i live in canada?
Depends on the brand. Happ is 28mm. Sanwa is 30mm.
NFI what that is in non-metric. But who cares, as only 2 countries in the world still use imperial measurements anyway. And they should really catch up to the rest of the world. :arazz:
For us imperial slowpokes it’s 1 1/8" for Happ and 1 3/16" for sanwa.
Yeah…Metric measurements are much more precise.
how’s the voltage in modded sticks, HRAP and DC Agetec?
ok cool cool, cause i have a official capcom joystick template so it says the same thing for the buttons. I just wanted to confirm it tho, thanks.
Do you guys make your holes after you varnish your wood or before?
Do you guys add any type of special casing to to give your stick somewhat more of a professional look?
I’m making my top board open upwards with hinges, that way i can always see whats going on if nessary, u think thats a alright idea?
Voltage doesn’t matter for sticks unless you’re using optical components that need to be driven by 5V. For standard microswitch buttons and sticks, you don’t need to worry about voltages.
If you do have optical sticks, the best resource I’ve seen for finding 5V sources and wiring into them is this page:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jdpyle1/controls.htm
Do all your drilling and sanding FIRST. Never drill/sand after you’ve painted or varnished. Not to mention that after any drilling a light sand is always recommended.
If you drill after paint/varnish, you can chip the coating, and if it’s still tacky end up with sawdust embedded in the finish. Ugly stuff.
good thing i asked before i did anything. What type of wiring should i ask for to solder?
Also what do u find more convient and more of a professional look, contact paper or plexiglass+artwork?
either 18 - 22 awg hookup wire from RadioShack (solid or stranded)
The latter looks nicer, but contact paper is cheaper if you’re on a budget
seeeeeeeeeeeeeeen Rotendo
now that thats straight how did Capcom get their side surfaces soo nice and professional looking like this link here.http://img.bruktmarked.no/big_30449_sf_hori_mob_topp.jpg
See how their side edges are smooth and roundish like, what is the name of that strip that they use to strap around the edges?
I’m a network admin by trade, so I’ve always got heaps of CAT5 network cable lying around. I usually strip the outer coating off, and use the wire inside. It’s great stuff, easy to solder, and cheap as crap. Plus there’s 8 strands in every bit of cable which is usually available for 20-50c a meter (ie: 8 meters, thanks to their being 8 wires internally). It’s all colour coded too, which makes wire tracing easier when it’s in bunches.
Definitely before, elvia_a_presley explained why.
I Cover my joystick cases in plastic laminate (the stuff on countertops). It comes out super durable and loos very professional.
Here’s my most recent finished stick:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/th_nitestick_058.jpg
I used black laminate from lowe’s on it.
I make all my sticks bottom accessable rather than top accessable. Reason being that There’s not much need to see what’s going on inside unless you plan to change out the PCBs often. It’s more work to make the top a flip up.
For wire I use 22AWG stranded from radio shack. Never had a problem with it. I prefer stranded over solid because stranded has more flexibility.
For artwork, nothing beats custom art and lexan.
The strap is called t-molding.
ey… i need a new stick… i’m likin’ sanwa’s way too much . i’m not the type to do it myself . my ideal stick is like a byrdo.org stick with plastic instead of metal or wood. so i can ding it around and not feel bad. i’ve had like 5 big mas sticks. so i’m tired of lugging anything around. help a brotha out? like tell me if any of you guys can do that for me and toss me a price.
Very very nice, i like the effort you put int your work. So all the black surfaces are Laminate, or did you mean the top board which you used to protect your artwork?
Sorry, and how did you get that red strip to go around your top board, thats EXACTLY what i need as well.
I’m currently wanting to build my own stick. I was wondering what are the sites that I may order sanwa buttons and sticks from?