not really but ok bro.
I’m gonna redo my MAS stick with Happ competition buttons and a competition joystick, and I have a question about it. Right now everything in there is soldered together, and I could solder it up again after changing everything out, but I want the ability to go in there and switch things around if I ever want to again. The last time I did this (with the SF:AE stick) I used those little connectors and stuck the wires into them and taped them together, which works, but every once in a while something falls out of place. I want it so that things won’t fall apart in there but at the same time I could easily redo things if I ever needed/wanted to. Any suggestions? I’m considering using a hot glue gun to cement the wires into the connectors and just do it like that, which I think would be nice because nothing would fall apart and the glue isn’t as permanent as soldering would be. I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, but does anyone have any advice about this? Would hot glue be a bad idea? If it is, I guess I’ll do the tape thing again, or is there a more secure way to go about it?
I don’t have much faith in hot glue. It’s really no better than tape.
What I like to do is buy partially insulated disconnects and remove the plastic so that they’re uninsulated (because uninsulated are harder to find around here). Then I push the wire all the way through the crimpable part and solder it to the disconnect. Finally, I crimp the disconnect, and then test for movement. If there’s any give at all, I desolder and do it over.
I haven’t had any problems yet…
I took your advice and soldered the wires to the disconnects and then fit the disconnects onto the button thingies, and it works pretty well. Thanks!
What size quickdisconnects do Sanwa pushbuttons take? Also, would it be insane of me to completely rewire a stick if the wiring is a f*cking mess?
Also, what’s the best kind of solder I can use for sticks and where can I get it? I heard something about 90/10 being the best but I can’t find anything like that anywhere.
.187 should work if I remember correctly.
Rewiring to ‘clean’ up the inside has its advantages. You can also label them while you’re at it when it comes to replacing quickdisconnects/microswitches and etc…
you can find various types of solder at your local RadioShack.
I do not know how well that .187 female disconnects will work with Sanwa pushbuttons… While that is the correct size for the Cherry switches used in many Happ parts, .110 is the exact size for Sanwa components. Here is a link to Jameco. They carry damned near everything, and they have no minimum order amount. Or didn’t the last time I ordered, anyway… But that was almost a year ago, now.
As to the solder, I used to use 95/5 or something like that. Then I came across a thread in which Casuli and Shin Ace were discussing the different lead/tin ratios and what was best for electronics. I had found the 95/5 solder to be a huge pain in the ass to work with because it took so long to heat up. I’d burn the shit out of my fingers holding everything in place. And cold joints are harder to avoid as a result of having to hold steady and endure pain for longer. But if you take their advice and use something like 60/40, it will set off much faster and you will avoid both blistered fingers and cold joints.
I now use 63/37 rosin core solder which you can find at any Radio Shack. Using additional flux is a God send, as well, even though the rosin core has some already in it. The additional flux just makes things move so much faster when you want to solder a whole bunch of connections quickly.
Good luck!
Question about painting a wooden case
Question for all you painters out there…I’m in the arduous process of making a custom stick, and was wondering what type of primer and paint you would reccomend to make a glossy white, porcelin or plastic like appearance to a wooden case. I would really like the stick to look like it is one piece of solid material…so I know I’m going to have to use some type of wood filler on any gaps or holes. I heard something about a primer used on cars that actually foams up to fill in any imperfections…what kind of primer and white paint do you experts recommend for the smooth finish I’m looking for? Is there any way besides using a plastic case to minimize the amount of sanding?
This is my first attempt at a stick, so I greatly appreciate any info or help anyone could throw my way.
thanks
BTW: I’m using DarkSide’s Ghost Stick as inspiration…his sticks are flawless… http://www.byrdo.org/images/Arcade%20Stiks/Ghost.jpg
Just use like 2-3 coats of each primer, paint, and finish. I bought my boxes from usedelectronics who used a CNC router to make it so I didn’t have any gaps or imperfections on my box.
I’m pretty new to all of this – how would I go about using flux?
Also, where can I find a guide to proper soldering? Google, for the first time ever, seems to not want to give me a solid result. 
Just apply flux to any area you want solder to flow to. Pretty much flux is extracted from tree sap and it conducts heat and will make the solder flow to where you want it to. As for a guide, I bookmarked this awhile back and I think it’s an excellent guide.
I’m currently in the process of designing my own stick. I was wondering how do you fasten the pcb unto the inside of the enclosure?
I am currently builting my own arcade stick, already got the box cut in the following dimentions:
Top: 8" x 14"
Bottom: 8" x 14"
Left: 8" x 2"
Right: 8" x 2"
Front: 13" x 2"
Rear: 13" x 3"
I mostly play street fighter games (alpha 3, Marvel vs capcom, you name it) so what hoy is recommended? the ultimate, the super, or the competition? Also what is difference between a competition pushbutton and a pushbutton with horizontal microswitch? (they look the same to me, xcept for that gold rim or whatever…)
Something that also concerns me is the circuit board getting damaged, these tutorials don’t mention any hosuing for the board, and with all that button mashing it could get damaged.
I will do the graphics by giving the box a base coat of black, cut out a desing, and painting it white (pimp my ride style) will this look good? or do I have to get some fancy laminated desing done at Kinko’s?
Thanks for your help in the other thread by the way
:karate:
Competition is the way to go
Anyone have a link to an art template for one of those old redoctane boxes?
Sticks to EU
Hi there!
Im looking for some new ac stick. At first i searching for something from HORI ,but i am from Czech Republic (europe union…you now…the best ice hockey players in world…
and HORI doesnt ship here(play-asia,liksang,…) So i search another and found X-Arcade,on soulcalibur.com say a lot ofnpeople that this stick is grae ,but on tekken zaibatu they say that it is garbage. But on both wesites they say me go to tech forums on shoryuken and that there is a lot of people who building custom stick wich is grat and much better thne x-arcade.
So my question is: Who can build some good stick with real arcade parts and mainly … who can send it to EU. If there is somebody please send me private message,i want two of them…
Thanx to all! :tup:
Alright… I have a SF:AE stick and i need a new one, so i was thinking of building my own. Now, i was planning on using an old xbox controller (type S) that i tried to lcd out then never put back together for the pcb. Does anyone know:
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if there is a key to removing the trigger plastic?
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Where the ground is for the buttons?
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How to remove the start and back button things that are on there?
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Um… if it s possible at all?
Also, how should the case be modified to hold the artwork on the top? Does an indentation need to be made? if so, what tools are used in the process?
I need help! So i built a stick earlier this summer and made some jankey box for it… everything worked perfectly until i made a new box for it and moved all the hardware over. I am getting a delay in my 4 (circle) button. Any idea what the problem is? I am using a madcatz board with happs comp buttons. Is there anything short of redoing all the wiring?
On a different note, what alternative do i have instead of a single loops for the entire ground? It makes for a sloppy look.
Thanks for the help!
-GA
Toggleme, I can’t help you with the button lag. Unless it’s the switch, it’s probably the connection you soldered to the PCB. Maybe. I dunno.
Anyway, instead of daisy chaining QCDs for a ground, you could alternatively just solder a single piece of uninsulated solid core wire that extends from one switch to the next. No breaks, and it makes finding a loose ground connection easier to spot, as well. However, QCDs definitely allow for versatility, should you ever wish to swap parts, boxes, and what have you. You might also be interested in using terminal strips, but then you’re needlessly complicating things by using an awful lot of wire for a simple common ground.
So yeah, there are other options. Perhaps even more than I listed. But each has its pros and cons. Daisy-chaining with QCDs may not be the prettiest or easiest to double check, but it is clean and allows for quick and painless part-swapping down the road.
pelican universal fighting stick to dreamcast/pc?
I just got a pelican universal fighting stick, the one on the right here (http://www.pelicanacc.com/). Go to universal, and its the yellow stick on the far right
Main thing I want is to hook it up to my dreamcast, I have this adaptor here. http://www.lik-sang.com/info.php?category=29&products_id=718& no work. It also didnt work with a madcatz pad I had a few years ago. I’m thinking the common thread is power. Works fine for dual shock ps1 and ps2 pads I’ve tried.
Also tried it with PC with this one
http://www.lik-sang.com/info.php?category=29&products_id=718&
No work here either.
Can someone that actually owns this stick please reply with a confirmed adaptor model? dreamcast is most important to me for 3rd strike and CvS2, I’m not buying a console till next gen 