Anyone can tell me where to find carriage bolts small enough to mount a joystick? I went to Home Depot, Canadian Tire, Wal-Mart and all they have are big ass bolts or little phillip bolts…Need help, I’m almost done with my joystick, but still looking for a way to mount the joystick on lexan only!
Lowe’s, Home Depot, and indeed, even small hardware store franchises such as Ace and True Value do not necessarily stock the same items from one store to the next. Even though the name of the store is the same. Get used to searching all around for whatever it is that you seek.
For instance, for me to find the exact FQDs that I prefer to use, I can only find them at one particular True Value, out of over ten other hardware and automotive retail suppliers in my area, and I pay $1.99 plus tax for only ten of them. The only reason I don’t buy them online is because it would be even more expensive after shipping if I ordered from Jameco or Parts Express or wherever else.
But that isn’t to say you should not search the web, too. You absolutely should.
Whatever you do, don’t ask here where you can find parts because there is no universal answer.
What are the sizes for the quick disconnects of Happs comp. buttons and stick? Im getting all the wiring ready before hand so i can just stick it on when its time. Thanks
This is my second joystick I made for my friend. I worked so hard on it that I didn’t want to give it to him. Decided not to paint it black as on the scheme but I kinda regret it, would’ve look good I think, oh well it’s too late, so check it out and tell me what yall think MastaPiece 2http://www.cardomain.com/ride/633543/3
Well, I first used two cheap madcatz PCBs, those that doesn’t even have joysticks on them that I bought 5$ each, this is for my 2-player stick. And for the 1-player stick, I used a serie A Sony controller, the one without soldering needed, works like wonders!
I’ve got three I’m currently in the process of making. They’re built, but need to be painted. Which is something I despise because I’m so completely awful at spray-painting. But I plan on posting pics of at least one of them in the next few days, when I finally finish painting the damned thing.
I used to paint cars for a living, and just remember,
Nice, even strokes, keep your hand level with the wood/whatever in one stroke, if you just swing your hand, you get more in the middle. Just move your arm from the elbow.
Spray only when you are making contact, and when you get to the end of a swing, stop spraying, if you just keep spraying, the end of your arm sweeps (on the wood) will have more then the rest.
Apply in 3 coats, one light(let it dry), one covered(let it dry a little longer), and lay it on last(let it dry longest), not enough to run it, but enough.
This is only what worked well for me.
You COULD prime the MDF, but thats almost a waste of time.
I was previously just swinging my arm back and forth and never letting off of the spray nozzle. So yeah, as you stated, it comes out uneven. And then I’d just go over top of it again (and again) trying to get it right. But then it gets too thick and it starts to get those little pin-prick dots. I’m pretty good at avoiding runs though.
Another thing that kills me is all the dust. I paint one side, and in the process, all adjacent sides get covered in fucking spray-paint dust. Then because I don’t want it to dry like that, I end up hitting those sides again really quick in a vain effort to balance things out. Leading to more pin-prick dots. Really frustrating.
I’ve been wet-sanding everything down in-between coats, and that helps, but fuck, does it ever take forever and a day.
Heh, yeah, I already primed it though. Why do you say that priming MDF is pointless? Or do you mean after sanding? I sanded everything down with 400 grit (after going through 60, 100, 150, 220, and 320 first), and I admit it was pretty smooth. But if I had not sanded all the edges with fine grit, it would have absorbed a shit-mother-load of paint, making primer a necessity…
Anyway, any other tips would be great. Again thanks.
What’s the best way of cutting plexi to make it the right size? I originally cut it with a router, but afterwards the area cut was all white (scratch marks). Is there a better way? Or should I be doing something afterwards?
Get a fine toothed saw blade, and you actually put the blade on backwards, and then you make your cuts. That way no chips at all. It still cuts it, but nothing digs into the plexi.