You’re looking for a clean, tight connection when the switch is in the closed position. Nothing warped, bent, broken, and so forth. You also want to make sure that it responds as quickly as they should with no delay. So should you press the little button, the connection immediately snaps closed. When released, it should immediately go back to the open position without interruption.
Simple and easy. They’re very straightforward. 
The first thing you need to do is swap the switches for down and start, and see if that helps. If it does, replace the broken start switch with a new one.
Hahaha, oh yeah! Good point! 
http://img78.echo.cx/img78/619/stickdone6kh.jpg
here’s my shitty first attempt at making a stick! enjoy!
anyone has a link to info on the diff versions of a ps1 pad hack that will be compatible with magicbox?
Not too shabby for a first stick at all. :tup:
I really dig the red on black, too. With some extra sanding before you painted and, uh, a little more foresight {
) put into the wiring, it would have been golden, for sure.
yeah, thats EXACTLY what i SHOULD have done…
oh well, experience is the best teacher! thanks for the tips!
Im planning on a little summer project.I want to build a PS2 joystick. Just wondering what type of happs stick (if any) you would recommend. The arcades i play at are pro comps and i was planning on picking up one of those. Any ideas? i welcome your 2 cents.
O ya does anyone have schematics on a nice sized box? A dimmensions break down would be nice.
ParryPerson: i like your layout. got specs? if not can you just give me some rough dimmensions so i can get a feel for it? thanks alot.
I can give you all the measurements, I don’t have a fancy PS layout or anything.
It’s based on Spiffys design, but I freehanded it so it felt right to me, it’s only a few inches here and there that I took or added.
I used 1/2 MDF.
(all inches, Width X Tall)
Top Panel: 12 1/2 X 11
Sides: 9 1/2 X 4
Back: 12 1/2 X 4
Front: 12 1/2 X 3 1/2.
The stick is 2 1/2 inches from the side of the top panel, and 4 inches from the top. From center of joystick hole to center of first buttons is 4 inches.
Thats only what I used, just do what feels right, some people like the buttons further away, some like them closer.
From your numbers i gather it is hardly slanted. Does anyone have a good angle to put it at? i know at my arcade every cabinet is slanted. Thanks.
Right, no slant, I like my sticks better that way. You’d probably want to go 5 inches on back, 4 on front. Draw your line and cut.
I’ve found that I don’t like a slant greater than about 5.7 for my own deck. That comes out to roughly a 1" height difference over a 10" span. Someone said that a slant of more than 10 causes wrist pain, too… I think. Don’t quote me on that!
Anyway, here’s a great link for figuring out the angles for your cuts to obtain the slope you desire: Slope and Distance Calculator. Good luck with the project!
Where can I find those? I went to Home Depot and all I found were big carriage bolts like with a 3/4" head…is that it? They were really huge for a joystick. I remember seeing pics with bolts a lot smaller…where can I find them?
Hey I want an arcade stick and I’m not skilled enough to build my own. So what is the best one to buy? Holla!!!
Official Member of Team Death
You go against us and you DIE!!!..Simple as that
Well, this thread is the “CUSTOM arcade stick thread”, for info on those making their own sticks.
There have been MANY threads asking your same question, just a simple look/search around the hardware forum will give you your answer, if not, then simply make a new thread.
Hi all. Just wandering whether anybody knows a good source of arcade parts in the UK. I am loooking for a happ competition joystick and pushbuttons but Suzo UK have imposed a minimum 100 order limit.
aight guys i am starting on my first fully custom stick tomorrow
i have researched this for countless hours but still have a few questions
1)what ways are recommended to mount the pcb?
2)will a binding post?(strip of like 16 screw things for wires from pcb to stick and buttons) have any affect on input lag or a possible short?
3)what size lexan is preffered, what is the general price to expect, does it come tinted and if not can it be tinted?
thats all for know
any possible suggestions would be appreciated for these are pretty specific questions
thanks
joseph
Mount it any way you want, as long as it can handle some physical trauma (i.e. dropping the stick on the floor) without damage (solder joints breaking off and stuff).
No. Perhaps there is, but the delay will be lower than 10^-5 seconds for sure.
Entirely your choice. I got some Lucite (high-impact acrylic, I think - a 24"x48"x0.08" panel) for about $17 CDN. Lexan may or may not be more expensive. By the way, Lucite is hard to work with. 
I think Lexan comes in different colors, including clear.
thanks man
that answered that except when mounting the pcb can i put a screw through it or glue on the backside?
Yeah, you can put a screw in an existing hole, or hot glue it to the box.