well, after actually figuring out the situation I’m in with my t5 stick, I know what I need to do. My situation is like that of the doa4 stick mod. The JLF has a common ground and the pcb has 4 individual grounds for each direction. I need to break the traces to the pcb and solder directly onto the switches.
like this:
holy crap I’m learning a lot about electronics with this (small) project
If I fuck this up can I order more microswitches? also, is there something else you guys can recommend besides dremelling the traces? maybe a file? I don’t have a dremel so it’ll be hard to use one.
The only trace you have to break is the one for the ground. If you wanted you could leave the traces for the other lines as they are and still use the wiring harness for everything but the ground. And if you want to go even further, you could leave one of the grounds still connected and use the wire in the harness for the ground as the ground for one of the buttons.
To cut trace for the ground you dont need a dremel, its just that a dremel is the easiest thing to use. All you really need is a sharp object, like a knife. If you scratch at the PCB you will scrap away the top layer and then get down to the copper layer. Just scratch through the copper layer in the rigth spots to disconnect the grounds.
As for buying new microswitches, its possible to do so, but I dont believe that you can buy the microswitches that are used on that PCB. The switch itself is no different from others, but the contacts are made special so they can connect to the PCB. Although there is really no way to mess up a microswitch unless you open it up and pull out the switch mechanism. There are no electronics in the switch so you can screw anything up with the switch itself. But if you really really mess something up, it is possible to buy a replacement PCB, microswitches and all, for the JLF.
thanks man, I’m gonna try and just break the entire trace off. It’ll make it easier for me and I won’t have to worry about troubleshooting that later. Time to solder… wish me luck crosses fingers
i’m planning to rebuild the box for my custom stick sometime this week. i was wondering if anyone had byrdo’s blueprints for the boxes he made. i know that he used to have them on his website, but they seem to be gone now so i was hoping someone here might have them since they seem to be a pretty popular box type. thanks in advance.
I would like to start modding my namco stick. The ball top and buttons are pretty scuffed up and the joystick is looser than I would like.
I also want to go back into my mas stick and re-work the buttons to their correct assignments and replace most of the wires. I would also like to do new artwork for it and actually use plex or whatever this time.
Select your bg layer
Then go to Filter>Render>Clouds…
[note 1.] you can set your foreground and background color to match your main image colors, like blue/black or whatever. So the ‘clouds’ will show as blue/black or whatever you choose
If you aren’t happy with the pattern or want to repeat, just hit ctrl+f…
from there you can then let your imagination go wild; add lightning, tiles, wind blur…
pretty much just play around with the filter>xxxx>xxxx for desired results.
^all I did was created new…
filter>render>clouds
filter>artistic>dry brush…
filter>artistic>plastic wrap…
filter>artistic>smudge stick…
filter>artistic>neon glow…
filter>blur>radial blur (settings to zoom/best then I upped the slide to 88 or something
filter>render>lens flare…
save as…
(… refers to fooling with the settings then hitting ok to see the results) you can always edit>under xxx or ctrl+alt+z (step backwards)
So just play around with all the cool things filter has to offer or just goole, PS background tutorials or hit up image mishmash to ask there for help. :tup:
mod worked great. Went out to home depot and bought some size 4 3/4" long screws and screwed the stick down. the difference is unbelieveable. thanks for all the help
ok, after seeing all the sticks in the gallery, i’m anxious to start my first build. i want to use an xbox360 pcb, but i don’t know how big it is after i take the case off of it. is this enough room for it to fit?
edit: the rectangle is the mounting plate for Sanwa JLF; the three buttons above it are “back” “home” “start”; model was drawn in Google Sketchup by me.
double edit: buttons above the mounting plate are 24mm and the buttons to the right of the mounting plate are 30mm.
I am not sure if a 360 will fit since I havent used one, but I can tell you that a PS1 PCB will fit. That drawing uses the same length and width that I made my stick(12" x 9"x 2-1/8"). The height on yours will be a little taller than mine but that doesnt make much of a difference.
One problem you may find with your start buttons though, is that they may be too close to the edge. You have to remember that the stick will have a 3/4" frame, or something similar depending on the material you use. Therefore your top panel will be 1-1/2" shorter in both directions. If what you drew up is just the top panel then you will be fine, but if you meant that to be the top of the entire stick then you may be in trouble.
Then on top of the frame thickness, you also have to support the top panel some how and depending on how you do this you may have to move everything a little further in from the edge.
I’m modding out a DC Agetec stick and was wondering if anyone knows offhand whether Happ Competition buttons will fit? I’m gonna use a Sanwa stick, but i need my buttons to click lol.
so… this is my first sanwa stick and as I was situating it my first idea would be to pull off the square mountain plate.
unfortunately, I kinda fucked it up lol! one of the screws is stuck and my coworker and I did everything we could and ended up fucking it up even more, the plate aint coming out! I’ll have pics later…
is it still possible to mount the JLF with the mountain plate or will I have to get me a new one (since I cannot pull the plate off on this one)? I can still use the one I have now for sum built-from-scratch stick so it’s all good.
If one of the screws in stripped but you still want to get the mounting plate off, you can always drill out the screw. Just get a drill bit that is close in size to the diameter of the screw and drill a hole through it. Once you get through the head of the screw you will be able to get the mounting plate off.
woot! well my other coworker was able to get it off!! saved me like another $30 lol!
I’m gonna dremmel the T5 stick mounting screws after my shift to get them down to size!!
another question, how do you put artwork on the stick if you’re using seimitsu snap ins??
Lexan + metal plate is too thick, I highly doubt I can fit the tabs in between the two.
are there any cutting methods that will accommodate the two together? rite now I’m thinking just get sum artwork laminated and use that instead. No lexan, just laminated paper on top.
) is that too slim?