Anybody got some closeups of their soldering joints on a DS1? I’d like to see how a proper joint on a copper contact should look. I’ve been testing on old controllers and I feel satisfied, but I need some sort of comparison. I’m using the Radio Shack Soldering Iron ($7.99) on 22 gauge wire.
Oh that reminds me…on the square, X, Triangle, etc where the jagged contacts are, the guage I’m using is a bit too big I think, is it safe to strip away about half of the strands and it be able to still conduct properly?
Sorry reminded myself of another question. Do I need to make sure that the solder is on the copper ONLY and not touching the trim of the board at all? In between some of the contacts is some dark green, darker than outside the contacts. A couple of joints I did seemed like it might just barely touching the trim, but it’s hard to tell. Thanks, and sorry for all the newb questions.
(Sorry for EX post, buttons are coming soon and I’m getting paranoid)
Find any open space inside your box and put it there. If possible try and find a place that also looks cool & balanced.
Find some small rigid plastic tubing (or a plain bic pen) and cut it into 1/4" pieces with a hacksaw. Use that as a spacer and put a screw throught the pcb, through the spacer and into your box.
I feel your pain, I searched for weeks for these bits online with no luck in ordering them. I finally called around to all the tool shops in my area and was able to find what I was looking for. I would recommend you to do that, serious tool shops should have what you need. Also remember that 15/16" = 24mm (very easy to find)
and 1 3/16" = 30mm (harder to find)
Kabal>>> I secure mine with hot glue. jus glu that shit down!!
DarkManX>>> are u using japanese buttons? 1 1/8" make perfect holes for happ parts but I hear on this board that jpn parts have a slightly larger girth making them fir into those holes extremely tight. What u can try is jus drill the 1 1/8" hole and carve the hole a bit bigger. Likewise for 24mm I would try the 7/8" spade and carve if necessary. Those two sizes are rather easy to find.
can you please help me to wire a 360 stick from happ to my Street Fighter 15th Anniversary Edition Arcade Stick . just need to know where to put the power wire to and the ground. thank you DONGETTO
Ace Hardware actually makes these size hole saws. I had this same issue until recently discovering that Ace hardware has the more non standard hole saw sizes thean say a Home Depot. I found 15/16", 1 3/16" and 7/8" whole saws there.
Thanks Timoe and Sambao for the answers
Can someone please tell me where it is safe to drill a DualShock1 Model H PCB?
Because I think I’m going for that solution
And what drilling bit (I think that’s the name) should I use
thanks guys for all your tips. I found what I was look for last week. Couldn’t get any wood boring bits, so I had to opt for the hole saws…I rather have the bits, but I guess it will do for now.
I will be putting my custom together soon, so when I have it ready, I’ll post some pics. =)
quick question for everyone…What’s your preference on wood type??? Do you like solid or plywood???
I like solid just because it feels right when you pick it up…ply feels too flimsy to me…Also, I don’t have to worry about the pieces splitting at the edges like plywood.
I used MDF on my box…medium density fiber board at 1/2" thick. The only problem I had with the wood splitting was when I put my hinges on. I used thick wood screws with no pilot holes, so it’s my fault, it could have been avoided.
High-quality void-free plywood is really nice stuff. It’s much stronger than MDF and can actually hold screws, but it’s a little tougher to finish, depending on how you want it.
Anyone know what are the dimensions are for the base plate of the Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT Joystick? Also, how wide should the placement be for the joystick base to fit? If you look at the pic below, just what are those dimensions. I don’t have my parts as of yet but I would like to get started on the buliding the case and cutting the holes. Also, I forget to ask this but how deep should the lip for the metal button plate be?
That’s the plan I use for Happ parts. The button layout is perfectly suited for my right hand, not yours, but it should be comfortable for just about everybody with normal-sized hands. Print it out at 100% - if the 6" line measures 6", you’re good to go. (the 6" line does NOT indicate a dimension)
The solid circles for the buttons are the edges of the buttons when looking from the top. The innermost (smallest) circles are the 1-1/8" holes. The outermost circles show the nuts for the buttons on the inside.
The Competition, Super, and Ultimate sticks have the same screw layout. The Competition (convex) and regular (concave) buttons have the same diameters.
Last thing - the joystick hole only has to be sufficiently large, and I would just use a 1-1/8" hole saw/Forstner bit for it just so you can do it all in one pass. Unless the wood is thicker than 3/4", that should be wide enough. Make sure the shaft doesn’t hit the wood when the stick is mounted, though.
Do you guys use a guide or something for ‘finishing’ the boxes?
I’m perfectly fine with the electrical aspect of putting an arcade stick together, but I’ve never been a particularly good craftsman. I don’t understand how you go from having chunks of plywood to having glossy, feel good surfaces.
Is there some guide or tips I can read somewhere for actually working on the -case- itself, not the electrical portion?
Was this directed at me? Because I was wondering about the Sanwa stick, not the Happ. I know the button measurements won’t work for me, but will the Happ joystick measurements be the same for the Sanwa joystick? I found this on the same site - http://www.rootminus1.com/howard/stickbuilding/sanwasticken.GIF
