perfect, cheers 
Basically I appear to have it wired up OK for my PC and there are inputs for 11 buttons as well as the stick…
That’s plenty for what I want, just making sure I wasn’t doing something stupid
I see now the ??'s are actually grounds too
I just got my kit, and my stick. I just need to start wiring up the stick. now I’m guessing A) VCC coming off of the last pin on the end is +5v? B) The tiny .1 nano farad cap can go in either direction? This is the first time I’m building something that I’ve seen something this small, and I’ve also been really out of practice, I just want to make sure I won’t blow the little bastard.
edit: n/m
A) Yup. VCC is the power from whatever system its connected to, and USB is always +5v.
B) The small .1uF cap does not have an orientation. If I neglected to mention this in the Instructable, please let me know.
BTW, I just got notice that the next batch of boards has shipped. LizardLick will be restocked ASAP, hopefully in about a week from today.
okay
awesome. Sat down and finally did it. this is one really awesome board that made me wish I had really did the measurements inside of the damn thing.
Internals:
I’M READY FOR SF4 BITCHES.
edit: seeing as how many of us have boards in hand, wouldn’t it be more prudent to state, CTHULU BOARD THREAD or some variation as the topic?
Could I grab one presoldered except for the USB jack? Or should I just get one from Chad and desolder the USB myself?
Chad’s out at the moment, and the boards should be arriving here tomorrow. I can get an assembled one -USB jack for you if you need: $37+$5.50 priority mail. If UPS keeps to their estimate, I could have it out to you tomorrow.
Can do. I’ll send payment tonight.
one day i’ll get one. hopefully sometime soon.
yes they can both use the same connector. You just need a DPDT switch, I have a diagram on how to wire it, if you would like a copy of it just PM me.
:u: if you have a diagram, can you post it up here. I bet a lot of people would find it usefull. :woot:
hey toodles…if i were to order the cthulhu board. may i order it from you or should i wait until liz. lick is back in stock?
I’m boxing up the stuff to send to Chad right now, so he should hopefully have them by Monday. Pretty much always get them from Chad; only come to me if you’re looking to buy in bulk of 10+ or 50+. Besides, since you’re probably getting parts from him, you’ll end up saving quite a chunk of money on shipping. He should have them in his hands and ready to order in less than a week.
Thank you for the news on this board. I can use my HRAP again and not have to worry about possible lag from the adapter. This will rock indeed and it gives me a damn good excuse to install the octogonal gate for my RAP1.
Since I haven’t had time to construct my latest joystick cases, I decided to bust out an old T5 stick that I modded with Sanwa parts and a PSOne Dualshock H. Ok, for those that connected a 2nd/3rd PCB to the Cthulhu. I only intend to connect the PSOne PCB to the Cthulhu. Do I need to connect the VCC of the PSOne PCB to the VCC of the Cthulhu? Essentially, the pinout (A-H, 1-9) on the Cthulhu would be:
A - VCC from PSOne PCB
B - D-Pad down
C - Common Ground
D - Select
E - D-Pad right
F - R2
G - R1
H - Square
1 - D-Pad up
2 - L1
3 - D-Pad left
4 - L2
5 - Start
6 - Circle
7 - X
8 - Triangle
9 - none
YES! Absolutely, the VCC line must be connected between the two.
That looks perfect.
As always, any pictures or details would be appreciated by all.
Just adding: go through Chad, unless you’re looking to trade for one. Stuff I’m looking for added to the first post.
sent you a pm toodles. =)
So with this I wont need the pelican or radioshack ps2 to usb adapter?
Can somebody make a xbox 360 add diagram?
Im really interested in this thing, im good at soldering but bad at reading english.
If anyone can answer to this questions will be appriciated.
thanx.
toodles im not an electronics guru so im probably on a whole other level of wrong but the doa4 pcb adding on the cthulu we discussed before.
i was wondering. since it doesnt have a common ground would putting a grounding bar between the ex pcb’s grounds and the cthulu’s singular ground solve anything.
it probably wont work but im just checking
Like this?
http://www.stormcopper.com/design/Electrical-Ground-Bars.htm
I dont really get what you mean by grounding bar, but I highly doubt it. The way the matrixed pcb’s like the DOA4 or EX2 pcb work is way way different. I still stand by the statement that there is no way to use the DOA4 pcb with a common ground pcb that wouldn’t be cheaper or easier than just getting a common ground xbox360 pcb to begin with.