The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

Swap one of the MC Cthulhus for the USB only Cthulhu or a Chimp (or some other PCB) as their ID is different.

@NENDOā€Œ

That depends on how you’ve got it set up. I can swing the coin door open on mine to access usb ports.

@PresidentCamachoā€Œ - Good point. I need to get a cab!

So there’s no way of running both together without unplugging? I feared as much. Windows really is a steaming pile isn’t it?
I like the idea of using a PC/PS3 only Cthulhu - if all else fails, that might be the answer - thanks.

I disagree on that point. When two devices have the same HID in the driver, some mixups will happen. I don’t think it’s a Windows issue. It’s possible to use a USB hub under the panel with a switch that cuts the USB signal to the PC. Plug one Cthulhu to the PC, and the other into the hub (turned off).

Power PC on, then turn the hub ON after PC is booted and player is established. It’s a pain, but it comes with the territory. Pres. Camacho is right, swinging the door open and plugging in the 2nd player isn’t that bad of a thing to do.

Yeah, I guess I can’t blame Windows for everything (worse luck :slight_smile: ). I guess my problem is that my cab, until recently, was built around a modded Xbox and, of course, they don’t have a problem with controller identities - there’s a port 1 and a port2. Simple.
Anyway, I’ve been playing about with my panel - I swapped out the second MC Cthulhu for a Dual Strike (which has turned out to be faulty, but at least it remained as Player 2 which is something). I’ve been offered an exchange for my Dual Strike of a standard Cthulhu. So before I say yes, they definitely definitely have different controller IDs to the MC Cthulhu, right?

By the way, thanks for all the advice. I’d have saved myself a lot of money and time by posting here in the first place.

I have an MC Cthulhu. Sanwa stick, Hori Kuro buttons. Problem is: Button 7 / 4K is always reporting as depressed in Windows 8 -> USB Game Devices -> Advanced window. This problem happened spontaneously. Did a search, couldn’t find a relevant answer to my problem. It looks like a couple of people have had similar issues, though.

Nothing changed in the wiring through terminals. I have a PS2 cable soldered to the #1 row, and I use that PS2 cable to connect to an eTokki PS2->360 converter (which I found out has been dropping inputs).

What’s interesting is I’ve removed ALL wires from the terminals, and button 7 / 4Kstill shows as depressed. I checked the PS2 cable’s soldering, and there’s no shorts or disconnections. I’ve tried different USB cables but they all are the same. Using PS2->360 converter, button 7 doesn’t show as depressed, but in USF4 I have to unbind 4K else no buttons will not work in chara select and beyond. I’ve also reflashed firmware v23 with the 10ms hex, 1ms hex, and RetroPie_XV hex. No luck.

The only other troubleshooting step I can do is unsolder the PS2 cable and try USB again, but after that I’m out of options ;_; Unsoldering… Nope. The naked PCB still reporting button 7 / 4K as depressed.

Any ideas??

Is there anywhere where there a strand of wire or a solder bridge making a short on your PCB?

Nahh, checked that. Again, nothing changed before a few days ago when button 7 is always on. I unsoldered the PS2 cable from the PCB. I removed everything from the terminals and had the PCB naked and it still had button 7 on. I checked for possible shorts, and I could find none. The only event that has happened is I switched to these Hori Kuro buttons a couple of weeks ago, but the issue just started now. I don’t think a naked PCB should be doing this D:

Yeah, if the pcb is doing it while disconnected there’s got to be something wrong.

Its been awhile, but I figured I’d ask…
Any news on the PS4 support for Mc Cthulu?
I’d be happy to donate some $$ to toodles.

Noting I heard of

kinda hard with this ā€œbluetooth verification thingyā€. maybe if he does something similar to what ps360+ is doing right now… but it’s not ā€œthe bestā€ solution :frowning:

Cthulhu 2.3 firmware bootloader isn’t detecting my pcb even though I plug it in with start and select held down. What could cause that?

edit: it works on both PC/PS3 no problem – just having trouble with bootloader. Shows up in device manager as HID-compliant game controller and all the buttons seem to work fine…

edit2: shows up as ā€œCthulhu PC/PS3 Controllerā€ in control panel device list.

edit3: oh… maybe PS3 ver doesn’t support firmware updates? :frowning:

The PS3 only Cthulhu cannot be updated. You will need to upgrade it to MC Cthulhu.

Maybe having the MC work with XIM?

How much power does cthulhu draw on a standard setup? I’m looking to split the usb connection so I can use both cthulhu and a usb memory card. Just worried if there is enough power from a standard usb connection.

USB splitter

Usb Card

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/81qNktsJcbL.SY355.jpg

Here is a really crude idea of what I want to do.

The USB spliter would not work. You need to use a USB Hub.

I can replicate this issue on a european ps1. I actually thought the memory card had died, and ordered new ones. When they didnt work either, i was at a loss. Stumbled upon this thread by accident.
The issue is both within games, and in the memory card menu. when a normal controller is attached everything works fine, when the mc cthulhu figthstick is attached memory card access doesnt work…

I have a custom controller I built using a mc cthulhu. I was wondering how to add ps4 support for it? is there a firmware update? if not, what else can be done?