Thanks, that sounds good enough for me, guess I’ll be dropping you an order sometime before christmas 
Guys, the response has been overwhelming. All of the stock I have on hand has been spoken for. There is a number of boards currently en route to Chad at LizardLick, so with luck they should be available to buy from LizardLick.com in the next day or two. Having the boards available to buy from the same place everyone will be getting their parts from anyways seemed the best option for everyone.
If you’re interested in getting a board, watch this thread for a little bit and I’ll announce and link to them when Chad gets the boards.
I am extremely happy at how well received these are becoming. Thank you all. I just ask you post up pictures of the board installed, and write up any feedback, good or ill, for everyone to see.
I would like to give mad props to Toodles for designing such an awesome board. I received my kits on Friday and immediately ripped into the box.
Packaging - A++
Toodles throws in all the parts for each kit into an anti-static bag. As an added bonus, he even dry mounts the IC Socket for you. lol.
Quality - A++
All the components are quality parts. Toodles ensures that what you get is a grade A product. Do not doubt this product.
Assembly - Too easy, but always double check before applying the solder.
Assembling the board is a cake walk. All the solder points on the board are pre-tinned so all you need to do is apply the iron to the point and melt your solder to seal the hole. I recommend you get rosin core solder, lead or lead-free. If you can read and follow directions, Toodles’ Instructables assembly guide is all you need for reference. It’s an easy solder job that no one can mess up. After all the soldering is done, let the components cool down for a few minutes, especially the USB port. That sucker gets HOT. Inserting the chip will take a nice firm press to get it lodged in. Don’t baby it but don’t Hulk it in either.
Side Note: I picked up some lead-free solder from a local electronics store and was told is had a rosin core (the packaging didn’t say so). So I began soldering the board using the lead-free stuff and hated it. The solder joints did not come out shiny and made my solder job look like a hack. I found some scrap lead rosin core solder and was only able to solder a portion of one of the screw terminals. These joints came out nice and shiny. Woot. I think I’ll take my chances with the lead stuff.
Testing:
I plugged my board into my PC and it immediately recognized it. No drivers needed. Before testing, I made sure to tape off the VCC terminal. Then I screwed in a wire to one of the grounds and then began touching each of the screw terminals to see if the buttons and directions were engaged. As expected, everything worked. I have yet to test it in an emulator because I am currently constructing my joystick cases. I do not want to gut my old ones because I am lazy lol. I will post gameplay testing results another time.
Pictures! http://www.flickr.com/photos/shinjn/sets/72157607768788327/
I personally recommend the Cthulhu board. I’m pretty anal when it comes to products and have a high expectation level. This board meets all expectations. This product gets the ShinJN Seal of Approval. GO GET ONE!
I appreciate the kind words and pictures; hope you stay happy with the boards.
Lead-free solder requires a higher temperature to use than leaded, and will typically not come out with a shiny surface. So long as the surface is at least smooth without cracks or ripples, that’s good enough for lead-free. It’s just how it is.
I always thought I was doing something wrong with my soldering =P. Ah well, everything I soldered together with lead-free stuff hasn’t given me problems yet.
LOL. I wish I knew this before being so judgmental on the lead-free stuff. I did notice the higher temp requirement. I thought my iron was being flaky on me. Thank you for dropping some knowledge on me.
It says that start and select together make the PS button, but what about games such as T5DR that require both be pressed to exit whatever mode you are in?
Start and Select bring up the in-game menu ONLY if you have the home button disabled. If you use a dedicated home button, that’s not a problem.
wow this is totally amazing. So this is basically an interface to wire up standard stick buttons and a stick to a PC or PS3 via USB connection? Awesome! I have been wanting such a circuit board for a while now but didn’t know anyone that made one. I like the simplicity of your design Mr. Toodles. I will definitely be ordering one from Chad ASAP.
this looks great, so basically i can play ps3/xbox360 if i dual PCB with the common ground right?? and with the upgrade you’re doing in the future it will be PSX/PS2/PS3/Xbox360 by just inserting the new chip?? im really tempted about this i have a HRAP that i’d like mod so i can play mostly next-gen and ps2 instead of having 2 or 3 sticks :tup: :woot:
Yup. Keep in mind, it still takes a bit of work to get it going, so that is NOT a project for a n00b, but if you’ve done a dual pcb setup before, you’ll find it easier to do with the Cthulhu because the points you need to connect up are easy to access.
The Cthulhu will never support xbox360, so that would only be true if you have it dual’ed with a common ground xbox360 pad. If you dual the PS3 Cthulhu with an xbox360 pad now, and then the multiconsole version comes out, to support PSX you would need to pop out the old chip, pop in the new chip, and solder a PSX cable to the Cthulhu board to the points marked on the grid close to the USB jack.
Man am I late to the party. I just found out about these being offered on LizardLick. Figured that I need to subscribe to the thread. I’ll be using these for sure in some of my builds. Too bad about the darn MS security though.
wait wut, pop out old chip??
does the Cthulhu board have usb updating?
The current PS3/PC version does not. The future multiconsole will.
First of all, huge props to Toodles for making this awesome little board that could.
While it won’t win any beauty awards, this board can be made to be ps1/2/3 and xbox360 compatible. Just wire up a ps1 pad to a xbox360 like you were going to do a dual pcb, then wire them up to the ps3 board like you were going to do a dual ps3 and xbox360 via DPDT switch. I stuck the ps1 pcb to the back of the xbox360 pcb with double sided tape to reduce the amount of room the pcb will take up inside the stick. Here are some pictures to show you what I mean.
Front shot
http://lh6.ggpht.com/wliu0912/SOw0iUzMVAI/AAAAAAAAB_4/GzOXP7R0sCo/s400/IMG_0333.JPG
Back shot
http://lh5.ggpht.com/wliu0912/SOw0i8NpPUI/AAAAAAAACAA/DNiiRBLc2aU/s400/IMG_0336.JPG
And if you think that looks messy, you should see my first one, way worse wiring in that one.
Holy shit zombie haha that’s amazing.
Well done, man. You’ll be adding the D+ and D- wires from the Cthulhu board later I assume? It looks like you have everything connected except those.
The part I think is cool about doing that is you can still use the easy to access points on the side of the Cthulhu to connect to the buttons and stick; even with screw terminals. 
Yes sir, took me about 2-3 hours to get this point and I decided to call it a night. I will finish it up and post the finished picture soon I hope.