The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

[Cowdisease]

Hey Toodles,

I’m planning to gut my dual-system modded VSHG and put in a Cthulhu board to replace the VSHG PCB. How difficult is it to connect the 360 Mad Catz PCB to your Cthulu board and the switch that’s already on there? If I connect the buttons to the 360 PCB first and then connect to Cthulhu, will I be able to use the 360 trigger buttons? That was one of my pet peeves from the original akuma001 dual-system mod.

Also, I’m thinking of replacing the stick and buttons with all Seimitsu. Do you know if a Seimitsu LS-32-01 will fit in a VSHG, or will the S-mounting plate cause problems? Also, does the stick use snap-in or screw buttons? I don’t have my VSHG here (it’s on route from across the country), so I can’t verify that.

Also, if anyone has pics of a Cthulhu board inside a VSHG (bonus: along with a 360 pcb), please post them.

[akuma001]

snip

i forget what kind of pcb i put in your stick but you would be basically taking these wires out http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n5/akuma001/360moddedvshgwiring.jpg and figuring out what wires correspond to how you want them to go onto the cthulhu.

i think if you get an assembled cthulhu kit you can just use the screw terminals to put each input from the 360 pcb as well as the wires going to the buttons for each input. for example wire from lp button and wire from lp on 360 pcb would go to the cthulhu lp screw down terminal, etc. for each button/direction. i never tried it that way but it should work.

i think the only soldering you would have to do on the cthulhu is d+ and d- from the switch to cthulhu. the d+ and d- from the 360 and usb don’t need to be unattached since you aren’t changing them. wait, i think you would also have to solder to the long pcb board to access the ps/select/l2/r2 since that wiring is soldered to the smaller pcb. sorry i’m typing fast because i’m almost out the door here.

sorry i don’t have any pics or a clearer way of explaining things but you can pm me if you have any questions on it.

i think there is a pic somewhere recently in the custom stick gallery with a cthulhu in a vshg but i don’t remember if its a dual mod.

as far as ls32 in a vshg it can’t fit with the stock mounting plate. you would have to find a way to remove it and mount direct to the top metal plate. vshg uses snap ins but screw in seimitsu will work fine.

[Fulaani]

lauries dual pcb VSHG mods http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=5983056&postcount=7154

[Toodles]

News on the Multi-Console Cthulhu front.

I finally figured out how to get the bootloader and program code together in one burnable .hex file. What this means I can finally offer upgrade chips and unassembled kits that already have good running code on them. I also have the PSX detection working. Gamecube and Xbox support are in, but require you to hold right or left (respectively) when plugging in; I’ll have them autodetected as soon as possible.

Upgrade chips, unassembled kits, and full boards all come with 4x diodes to put in place. More information on this shortly. The diodes aren’t really required, but help prevent stupid mistakes if you try to plug it into more than one console. The Playstation may require a different diode; I’ll be looking into that tomorrow.

So, upgrade chips and unassembled kits are available.
Multi-console upgrade chip: $12
Unassembled kit : $25
Optional USB jack for kit: $3
Optional screw terminals for kit: $8
Fully assembled MC Cthulhu board*: $45

Shipping is a flat $5 for the continental US, $11 to Canada/Mexico, $13 everywhere else. If your order is huge and requires more than a small flat rate priority box, I’ll let you know and give a better price on shipping, but I should be able to squeeze 10 boards into one box so I doubt this will happen much.

Fully assembled boards come with a free custom USB string as a perk for early adopters. I’d love to do the same with upgrade chips and kits, but I just can’t technically do it.

I have PSX, GC, and Xbox extension cables en route. They’re $5 each, and if you get an assembled board, another $5 if you’d like for me to install them and test them out. The nice thing about these is that each is identical and from the same manufacturer, so I’ll be able to put up instructions like “red wire here, green wire here, black wire here, done.” for installing them along with pictures. However, there is no requirement to get these from me. If you can pin out which wire goes to what pin on the console end, you can still follow the directions without problem.

Yes, again, PSX support appears to work well with converters. I can’t say it works with every, but it does work with every one I own, including Pelican (PS3) and Innovation (Dreamcast) converters. It should work 100% on any converter that works with a digital PSX pad and/or Hori Playstation stick. But as always, should. I’m looking forward to more feedback on this. But for me, the Innovation is the important one.

Expect updates over the week with directions for installing cables, pictures, instructables, and all of the normal good stuff you’re used to.

Let me know if there are any questions.

[Jinfactor]

This is great news! I’m looking forward to seeing more information regarding installation instructions and especially the pictures along with them. When I finally decide to set some time aside to build another stick, I’ll definitely have to pick one of these up.

[poonage]

Let me know if there are any questions.

Sorry, but a few things were unclear to me–

So does this mean PS2 will be supported? You say “PSX” which to me implies possibly just PS1 support.

You also mention upgrade chips. I already bought two assembled Cthulus a few weeks ago (haven’t installed them yet); can I upgrade these via software to add PS2 support or do I have to buy a whole new pair of Cthulus?

Thanks for clarifying!

[Behemoth88]

You also mention upgrade chips. I already bought two assembled Cthulus a few weeks ago (haven’t installed them yet); can I upgrade these via software to add PS2 support or do I have to buy a whole new pair of Cthulus?

Thanks for clarifying!

Same question here. Keep doing what you’re doing Toodles, I’d love to upgrade my custom to include DC support VIA ps2-converter.

[gns]

EXCELLENT news!!! looking to order when the extension cables come in.

[Toodles]

So does this mean PS2 will be supported? You say “PSX” which to me implies possibly just PS1 support.

Ah, good point. The MC Cthulhu pretends to be an original Playstation 1 digital controller, and pretends very well. As far as I know, it works on everything that can use an original Playstation 1 digital controller; you should be able to use this successfully anywhere you can use, say, a Hori or Namco PS2 stick. It works quite well on both of my PS2’s, and I’ll try to get a PSOne hooked up if you’d really like a test on it.

In other words, it works everywhere you’d expect a stick with a Playstation cord end to work.

You also mention upgrade chips. I already bought two assembled Cthulus a few weeks ago (haven’t installed them yet); can I upgrade these via software to add PS2 support or do I have to buy a whole new pair of Cthulus?

-There is no software upgrade of the original PS3 only Cthulhu’s possible. It doesn’t have a bootloader.
-The chip in the original PS3 only Cthulhu is not capable of talking like a Playstation controller. If you’re into nitty gritty details, check the data sheet for the chip in the original Cthulhu, the 18F2450. It doesn’t include an SPI module, which is what we need for Playstation. The MC Cthulhu uses a bigger, buffer chip in it which includes an SPI module.

-If you have an original Cthulhu, and want to upgrade it, you need to buy an upgrade chip. It’s a replacement black chip. Take a small flat blade screwdriver, pry the existing chip out, pop the new chip in. You can install the diodes and cables (Playstation, Xbox, and/or Gamecube) you want and that’s it.

[Behemoth88]

I have a proposal for you toodles. After I get my TE, If I send you my complete Cthulhu, Would you upgrade it and install a PsX Cable, and possibly solder my usb cord to it? I would pay for shipping both ways and for any parts and labor. Also, you could keep the old Cthulhu chip. Let me know if this is possible.

[System_1]

Just out of interest, I’m thinking about modding an old agetec/sega DC stick in the future. I have little/no experience with this sort of thing - would it be quite easy to convert it to a full sanawa, cthulhu-board setup?

[poonage]

-If you have an original Cthulhu, and want to upgrade it, you need to buy an upgrade chip. It’s a replacement black chip. Take a small flat blade screwdriver, pry the existing chip out, pop the new chip in. You can install the diodes and cables (Playstation, Xbox, and/or Gamecube) you want and that’s it.

Great, makes perfect sense now. As for the PS1 compatibility, don’t bother testing unless you’re interested yourself–I don’t care as long as it works on PS2!

How much of a pain in the ass will it be to install the diodes? Will I just have to solder a couple of things? I am trying to decide if I should just buy two new assembled MC Cthulus or upgrade my existing ones.

Do you know if LizardLick have the upgrade chip + PS2 diodes for sale in one package?

Next, can you clarify this sentence?

Fully assembled boards come with a free custom USB string as a perk for early adopters. I’d love to do the same with upgrade chips and kits, but I just can’t technically do it.

What is a free custom USB string? If it’s something I want, then it would be more incentive to get the full, new MC Cthulu kits.

Finally, do you have an ETA on these, and I am still going to be purchasing from LizardLick, not from you directly?

Thanks again and sorry for the barrage of questions! Just trying to prep my X360 Madcatz TEs like everybody else.

[System_1]

Thanks for all your work Toodles. When adding ‘tentacles’ to the MC Cthulhu, does each controller cable need to be connected to the board? Or can you cut off the connector end of each controller cable and attach it to a single cable to connect to the board?

[Toodles]

How much of a pain in the ass will it be to install the diodes? Will I just have to solder a couple of things? I am trying to decide if I should just buy two new assembled MC Cthulus or upgrade my existing ones.

I can’t make that decision for you, but I can give you all the details you could want.
Soldering the diodes in is about the easiest possible thing you could do with a soldering iron. Two legs go through two holes, solder, and clip the remaining legs with clipper.

Do you know if LizardLick have the upgrade chip + PS2 diodes for sale in one package?

I haven’t felt comfortable with the idea of handing these to LizardLick yet because aside from myself, no one has used it yet. There were a lot of PS3 Cthulhu users before Chad started carrying them, and I was 100% confident in the build quality; it’s pretty damn idiot proof. After I get some feedback from users, I will work the details with Chad, but I need some early adopters before I’d feel comfortable having him carry it. I don’t want someone who doesn’t speak any English to run into a problem with one of my boards; I want users who I can work things out with and describe any problems, so when it does show up on LL, it will just as bulletproof as the PS3 only Cthulhus. But, to answer the question you asked, when LL starts carrying upgrade chips, they will include diodes.

Next, can you clarify this sentence?

What is a free custom USB string? If it’s something I want, then it would be more incentive to get the full, new MC Cthulu kits.

See how the PC in the background shows the device as ‘Handcrafted by Domz’? That’s a custom USB string. When it’s connected to a PC, the device name it shows up as can be anything you want. “poon-stick”, “If found call 1-800blah blah”, “Toodles’ Big Stick”, whatever you want. If you can tell me the unicode characters for what you want, I should be able to do foreign characters as well, but please don’t abuse this; I haven’t done foreign characters before. It involves modifying the code, so there is some extra work for me involved, but I thought it would be a nice touch\perk for those who trust me enough to be early adopters. I won’t try it unless I can test it out to verify the board works, which is why I will only do it for full boards.

Finally, do you have an ETA on these, and I am still going to be purchasing from LizardLick, not from you directly?

Lizard won’t be carrying them until I get some feedback from users, and I doubt there will be enough time for him to start carrying them before SF4. I have everything on hand right now, so if you want one ready for when the TE’s are released, you’ll want to order from me. I can start mailing stuff out as early as tomorrow depending on what you want.

Thanks for all your work Toodles. When adding ‘tentacles’ to the MC Cthulhu, does each controller cable need to be connected to the board? Or can you cut off the connector end of each controller cable and attach it to a single cable to connect to the board?

The original intention was to have each cable for the console you wanted soldered directly to the board and hanging out tentacle style. You COULD technically wire everything up to a DB-9 connector and make individual UPCB style cables, but then you’d be going through all of the hard part of having a UPCB without the additional benefits a UPCB provides. If you’re wanting detachable cables, I’d really suggest the UPCB as the way to go. (yes, I know, I’m out, I need to improve the layout, get more boards made, etc, but Im kinda cramped for time…)

[System_1]

The original intention was to have each cable for the console you wanted soldered directly to the board and hanging out tentacle style. You COULD technically wire everything up to a DB-9 connector and make individual UPCB style cables, but then you’d be going through all of the hard part of having a UPCB without the additional benefits a UPCB provides. If you’re wanting detachable cables, I’d really suggest the UPCB as the way to go. (yes, I know, I’m out, I need to improve the layout, get more boards made, etc, but Im kinda cramped for time…)

I didn’t mean for each controller type to have it’s own cable. I’m saying instead of the tentacles splitting off at the joystick housing, they would be splitting at the end of a single cable. This would be a cleaner looking install, imo. I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, but I don’t have any electronics background besides installing modchips, so I’m not sure if I’m missing out on something. Of course, the single cable would have to have enough wiring for whichever controller type has the most wires, and only one connector would plugged in at a time.

[System_1]

I didn’t mean for each controller type to have it’s own cable. I’m saying instead of the tentacles splitting off at the joystick housing, they would be splitting at the end of a single cable. This would be a cleaner looking install, imo. I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, but I don’t have any electronics background besides installing modchips, so I’m not sure if I’m missing out on something. Of course, the single cable would have to have enough wiring for whichever controller type has the most wires, and only one connector would plugged in at a time.

And it depends on whether or not the autodetection depends on the fact that each console cable is soldered in sepearately.

[Toodles]

I didn’t mean for each controller type to have it’s own cable. I’m saying instead of the tentacles splitting off at the joystick housing, they would be splitting at the end of a single cable. This would be a cleaner looking install, imo. I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, but I don’t have any electronics background besides installing modchips, so I’m not sure if I’m missing out on something. Of course, the single cable would have to have enough wiring for whichever controller type has the most wires, and only one connector would plugged in at a time.

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/4450/dsc03201smallji7.jpg
You mean like this? That’s my current testing stick. One cord with PSX, Xbox, and GC ends. The cable is from one fo those butt ugly, suck ass Perlican or Nuby ‘Universal’ sticks from a couple of years ago. It’s fully pinned out, I even pinned out the color and purpose of each wire in a post not too long ago. If you can get your hands on one of these type cables, oh yeah, they work fine. On the right is the Xbox->USB adapter I use for PS3/PC play and using the bootloader.

[Toodles]

And it depends on whether or not the autodetection depends on the fact that each console cable is soldered in sepearately.

Not really. The console detection can’t assume whether the cable for that console is there or not, and a lot of the lines go to multiple cables. One line is all of the gamecube data line, and used for the ACK signal on PSX. The D- line is one of the USB lines for PS3 and Xbox, but is used for the ATT signal on PSX. The detection is along the lines of:

1. Try USB. If we get some working USB packets, golden. If not, goto 2.
2. Try PSX. If we get some working PSX packets, golden. If not, goto 3.
3. Try GC. If we get some working GC packets, golden. If not, goto 1.
   Each steps takes about 1/4 of a second, so detection should take less time that the console takes to boot or to walk back to the stick. At least that’s how it will be in an hour or two when I implement it.

[System_1]

You mean like this? That’s my current testing stick. One cord with PSX, Xbox, and GC ends. The cable is from one fo those butt ugly, suck ass Perlican or Nuby ‘Universal’ sticks from a couple of years ago. It’s fully pinned out, I even pinned out the color and purpose of each wire in a post not too long ago. If you can get your hands on one of these type cables, oh yeah, they work fine. On the right is the Xbox->USB adapter I use for PS3/PC play and using the bootloader.

Yeah, that’s the idea. I plan to make my own cable though. Do you know any place that carries a ‘boot’ (I think that’s what they’re called - at least for ethernet cables) with multiple outputs to make the point where the connectors branch off look nice? If not, I’ll just use heat shrink.

[System_1]

Hey toodles,

Just got the board from Lizardlick, perfect size and everything should work perfect for me!

One question though, if I was looking to use it for a PS2 (without plugging into a PS3 for backwards comp) would it be able to do this?

And if not, do you have any tutorials on making your own PS2/PSX cable? I’d really like to be able to create one with a PS2/PSX hook-up on one end and something like a 15pin connector on the other attached to the stick so the cord isn’t hanging off the box at all times.