The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

just wondering, is there a tutorial that deals with replacing HORI EX2 PCB completely with Cthulhu? How hard would it be to do? (I have basic knowledge of soldering but would not be capable of doing it if the solder points are too tiny.) if so, would anybody kindly point me towards it?

Just like to say the board is superb! very nice work and so simple to work with.
Thanks to toodles for making it and Per for sending it :slight_smile:

There isn’t any such thing that I know of. First thing you should check out though is the instructions on how to mod the DOA4/EX2 with sanwa buttons and stick. That’ll give you a good idea what’s needed to remove the two green boards and give you an idea of the what the wires from the stick and brown daughterboard do. What you’d have to do is desolder the two green pcb’s out. Take a peek at the brown daughterboard that is under the small pushbuttons at the top to figure out what each wire does, and identify which color. Then, find a spot inside to mount the Cthulhu; that may require dremeling. Solder wires to the buttons and to the wires hanging off of the joystick and top brown daughterboard. Run the wires to the appropriate spot on the Cthulhu and screw them down.

And again I doublepost in my own thread.

ahem WOOT!

Got PSX working on both my PS2 and with my converters flawlessly. There is always the possibility that some model of converter may glitch, but fuck it; the fact that it works as well as it does with all of my converters, and the fact I know HOW it works and that it is working properly gives me damn high hopes for most of the converters out there. I should mention though that it emulates a Digital Sony controller; if your converter won’t work with a legit digital Sony controller, chances are it won’t work with this but I don’t know of any converters that don’t work with a Sony digital. If it works with a Hori or Namco stick, it’ll work with this. The big one, the Innovation DC converter, sure as hell works just fine.

There will be the inevitable question about lag, so I want to be very clear about this:
**There is NO lag on the Cthulhu when using the PSX mode. **
(There isn’t on any of the others, either, but I need to be focused.) The buttons and stick are checked when the request for information from the console or converter is received, each and every time.
If you experience lag using a particular converter, then you will also experience it with a regular Sony pad; the lag is caused by the converter and not the pcb!
Converters with no lag will continue to show no lag with the Cthulhu.

Whew. It figures that I wouldn’t get this nailed down until the last damn weekend of my break.

I need to throw together some detection routines for when the board first gets power, but otherwise I’m ready for some beta testers/pre-orders.

I have 6 MC Cthulhu boards ready to go out, full boards with screw terminals, USB jack, and the power diodes already installed. You will need to provide your own cable(s) to connect to it, but otherwise it’s good to go. I will upload the most recent firmware I have when sent which will include PS3, PSX, Gamecube, and Xbox1 support; you won’t have to use the bootloader before use, but testing out the bootloader is something I’d like to be tested as much as possible.

As with the original Cthulhu pre-orders, all pre-orders can specify a custom USB string, so when the stick is connected to a PC you’ll see your ā€œMyName’s Stickā€ or whatever else you may want as a string.

I know it’ll be asked, but at this time I can’t do pre-order kits or pre-order upgrade chips. This isn’t a shake-down but quite intentional. See, I can’t upload the firmware to the chip unless it’s connected over USB in an assembled Cthulhu board, and if I send out a chip with just the bootloader on it (which I’d have to do for a kit or for an upgrade chip), then the person getting it is screwed if there is a problem with the bootloader client software on their machine. If I put the full firmware on it, then at least they still have a working stick until the bootloader client is fixed, but that requires the board to be fully assembled.

Cost is $45 + $5 for priority mail shipping. Add a buck if you want a delivery confirmation number. This is for testing, so no more than 1 per person please. Please include an email address you check regularly so I can send you the bootloader software. I expect to mail them out by Wednesday.

Please feel free to post any questions.

That’s awesome. Best news this year! Sorry can’t help you out with the testing. I work to damn much. But can’t wait to get my hands on a finished product. Three cheers for Toodles!!:lovin:

This is such great news!Sounds like I’ll be able to get a MC Cthulhu into my X360 TE stick before MWC.

Toodles you are amazing.

This is amazing news. You’re a godsend Toodles.

is the soldered installation method still compatible with a pre-assembled solderless cthulu board? basically i want to know if it’s safe for me to order a solderless cthulu board now and still have the chance to do a soldered installation for a PS360 stick.

Yup. As far as I can think of, there is nothing you can do with a kit that you can’t do with a fully assembled board.

thanks for the confirmation. i figured as much was true (already put in the cthulu order :)).

Not a question, but a big thank-you. I’ll be getting one as soon as you have kits available!

hey toodles, markman just posted a pic of the insides of the regular 360 Fight stick coming out soon. if things stay the same till release, I’m assuming the Tournament Edition will be required to install a Chtulu pcb? don’t know how big your pcb is, however…

PCB measurements are in the first post; Per made a great image with all of the measurements.

Thanks for the pic of the fightstick; from what I can see, it’s also common ground, so dual’ing a Cthulhu in there should be possible the same way. I’m basing that guess off of the fact the main pcb looks the same as the TE version, the stick uses a 5 pin harness, and all of the button wires leave the distribution block in 11 wires (start, select, 8 play buttons, and common). Its possible that I’m wrong and its actually common high, but I doubt it.

It looks like the best place to try and install it would be in the upper left of the case top; it might be a good idea to pickup some nylon bolts and nuts or arcade pcb ā€˜feet’ standoffs, and use modelling glue to glue the nuts or foot to the plastic there where possible. But of course most folks will likely just use hot glue.

Its a little hard to guage depth in the picture; maybe it could be installed vertically against a side? I don’t know, but the procedure to install a Cthulhu in there side by side should be same.

Wow. That’s a solid stick for the price.

So lizard lick just sold out because i was putting off ordering until today and it shows they’re out of stock :(:(:(. Is there anywhere else to purchase an unassembled cthulu? I want to be able to finish a stick before sf4 comes out.

More stock is already heading towards Lizard Lick. If you absolutely gotta have it ASAFP, I can mail you one directly tomorrow, but if you can wait 2-3 days LizardLick will have them back up.

Thanks for the update.

I’m looking to get my stick setup for dual systems (PS3 and 360) by piggybacking one of these mini controllers http://ak.buy.com/db_assets/large_images/512/202119512.jpg to my Cthulhu board seen here http://www.joystickvault.com/showphoto.php/photo/1010/cat/676 . Is this possible? Has anyone done this before? I’ve looked around but haven’t seen this model yet. Someone please point me in the right direction. Oh and thanks Toodles my stick works perfectly on my PS3. BTW I plan on cleaning up the wiring this time around, something more like my other stick http://www.joystickvault.com/showphoto.php/photo/1003/cat/676 :wgrin:

Update Mad catz Gamestop MicroCon

The pcb you connect to the Cthulhu must be a common ground pad. I don’t know if the one you are thinking of is a common ground pad or not. Good pictures of the pcb from that pad would help, or you can ask in padhacking if it is common ground.

Cool thanks done. I’ll post some pics later when I get home. Also is there a list of known common ground controllers for the 360 I can look at? Some pics of a piggyback setup would help too. I’ll keep digging around here to see if I can find one.

The big ones are from MadCatz. You can see the common ground pad on slagcoin’s site, but the freaky Atari stick looking controller works too. There’s a newer model of the MadCatz pad out that is also common ground, but the triggers are backwards; you have get kinky with those using a a total of 4 resistors and 2 transisters to invert the signal if you plan on using triggers.