You can read up on the discussion between me, futaris, and RDC here:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=5375949&postcount=710
If I can get enough info about how the chip communicates with the main microcontroller, and how the queries are passed over USB, its very possible. But with the fact xbox security chips suicide and that USB isn’t the most friendly thing to work with on a budget, it’ll be a bit.
Speaking of 360 pads and USB, can I solder the inside end of the MadCatz USB cable to a USB head, attach that to a Cthulhu, and use that cable (breakaway and all) as a regular USB cable for everything?
Sounds a lot like a question from about 2 pages ago:
You CAN do it, but I can’t think of any reason you’d want to. The USB cable that comes with 360 pads is top notch, no argument here.
If you wanted your stick to be only the cthulhu, then it’d be much more solid to solder the USB cable directly to the stick. Let me know if this is what you’re wanting to do and I’ll list up what goes where. Soldering directly to the board would be much more solid than jimmying up a B connector to the end and plugging that in.
If you’re wanting to dual pcb it with a 360 pad so you can use either the Cthulhu or the 360 pad over the same single USB cable, you can, but you won’t be using a B cable at all. You’d have to install a DPDT switch in your stick, with the D+ and D- wires from both pcb’s going to it, and the USB cable coming off of that so the switch determines which PCB’s D+ and D- wires are connected to the USB cable. There haven’t been any in depth directions on how to do this posted up yet, but many people have done exactly this. Check out the ‘2 pcb’s in one stick’ thread for a lot more information on how it’s done.
This sounds like what I want to do. So I want to just follow the documentation’s directions for the 360 buttons, and wire the D+ and D- from both PCBs to a DPDT switch?
Also, the Cthulhus you sent me (thanks by the way!) already have the USB connector attached, which is why I wanted to just stick a USB head on there rather than messing with desoldering the thing from the board. So should I just desolder it and proceed from there, then?
edit: one more thing, if I short the DISABLE_HOME pads it will work as a Guide button for the 360 as well, correct?
Sounds like you have the right idea.
You can, but I wouldn’t. Instead, connect:
Ground: Anywhere in the G column
D+ : anywhere in the E column
D- : anywhere in the D column
VCC: Look at the board where the ‘USB Only’ jumper is, oriented so the USB Only writing is upright. Put the VCC wire from the USB cable into the hole to the LEFT of the solder jumper; close to the USB jack.
NO. BIG BIG NO.
If you’re going to do a dual pcb with a Xbox360 controller, USE A DEDICATED HOME/GUIDE button. If you try to connect the guide button to the home button and short the home button to disable it, you’ll be connecting guide to home to ground; the guide button will always appear pressed.
Some news on the Multiconsole front, just to let y’all know I’ve been working on it. I had to take a break from working on the PSX for a bit because it’s really pissing me off. You guys have NO idea how frustrating it’s been, but I march on. Took a quick break to spend five minutes plugging in Gamecube and Xbox support; GC worked first try, 5 minutes work TOPS. Xbox didn’t work first try but I’d bet its something simple where I have the USB memory addresses spaced out wrong or something but it should be an easy fix.
So, yeah. PSX is a pain, but I’m busting my ass to do my best to get it working. Current plan is to rewrite the entire PSX module in assembly. sigh
So, uh, yeah. Gamecube works, so I got that going for me…
Thanks Toodles! Ya know we love ya (no homo), right?
And that’s exactly what it was. Cthulhu MC now has working PS3/PC, Xbox1, and GC support.
Back to PSX. :sad:
I’ll have to plug in Saturn, SNES, or NES whenever I need my next PSX break.
Yay progress.
You get that PSX support in and I’ll just keep the PSX controller that I was going to tear apart to make my stick and end up list ordering a Cthulu. (PS2 fighter support is a must for me)
Assembly code. Ugh. Fond memories of projects in that course.
Shameless bump.
Damn son, you make that look GOOD! Is that ‘bear’ or a new one?
Any chance you can post up details or part numbers on the mounting screws and/or standoffs?
The pics are from The Bear set. I just figured I put up the pics that show off the Cthulhu. =D
The mounting screws are standard 4-40 (5/8" or was it 3/4"?) machine screws, though the ones I used for the Cthulhu are the next size up (5-40 I believe… it’s all I had around at the time). Yup, I had to drill the mounting holes bigger.
I guess it’s time to let out the secret on the standoffs. I actually used Legos! If you go to www.lego.com -> Shop -> By Category -> Individual Bricks -> Pick a Brick and search for “Round Brick 1X1” you will see the ones I used. The color is “brick-yellow.” I had a ton from random Lego grab bags so I figured, “hey, why not? They are the perfect height!”
Those pics make even the LS-32-01 look like art. Nice pics.
Also, good work Toodles on the GC/Xbox1 support. I think I have a cable that would work nice with that :wgrin:
-Tim
ShinJN, sorry for the ignorance, but why do you have 2 pcb’s in there? I know one is the Cthulhu board, but what about the other?
The other PCB is for the lighting the LEDs.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3243/3140291732_78506b1fb4_t.jpg
Oh, I see - thanks
WOOT! Got my first break through in PSX today. I got the two test buttons I had connected working and read by the console just peachy. What’s even nicer is that the oscope shows the communication is working like it should and not the hackish way its been working with the UPCB (which has been reliable, dont get me wrong, but its hackish).
I’m torn between wanting to back port the code to the UPCB and testing it out there, versus pinning out my PSX&Xbox&GC cable and starting the Namco mod. 
Were those already drilled out or did you have to modify those little ‘bricks’? For 6 cents a piece that is perfect.
Michael
If you use 4-40 machine screws, you do not have to modify them. They have a hole that goes straight through. With the machine screws I used (the next size after 4-40), I had to widen the hole just a tad. It was late and the bolt shop I usually go to was closed so I used whatever bolts I had on hand. =D
And yes, they make the perfect PCB standoff. Pretty sure LEGO wouldn’t think someone would use their stuff for other purposes. Well, I did make a LEGO USB key. That was a fun project.
And CHEERS for PSX breakthrough!
Now that you have xbox1, gc, ps3 and psx support, how long till I can buy one? I have an old pelican cable that has been waiting for this board.
