The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

Just placed an order for a few ChImps, can’t wait to try those guys out. :tup:

Is there an FAQ for the chimp? what exactly does it do? sorry just looked through the first post could find anything regarding the functionality of the chimp.

done.

Cthulhu + Imp
For dual modders it’s one less step in getting your case put together. Also this should help make thing look a bit cleaner on the inside of your case. Ordered mine Friday and am super stoked to get it all put together.

Toodles,

I have been out of the loop over the long weekend. Is there an update to the ChImp? Can I update it through USB or do I need a new chip? Wish I had a 360 to do some testing with. I could ask my son to call his friend over with his 360 and there are a few around so I should just get on the ball. Too much to do though. Hopefully after the end of the year I can get things in order.

TTFN
Michael

Hey Michael,

Marcus already stated that there will be no update via USB. Direct chip replacement only.

What’s the issue with your ChImp? I have it working on multiple 360s without an issue.

When I was at the turny a few weeks ago it wasn’t recognized on the 360 consoles but worked fine on the PS3 consoles. It did work fine on my desktop but not my laptop. I’m thinking my laptop may need a refresh and Win 7 installed.

I need to take some time to dig further and see if I had the 360 pad wired up right first. Got to deal with customer orders first though.

Michael

Hmmm…when you get time, I would definitely check the 360 wiring to make sure that is correct. I’ve tried 4 different versions of 360s now and all worked like a charm.

Unfortunately, I’ve only tested the ChImp on Vista x64 and XP Pro.

On my stick the 360 guide doesn’t activate when i press both back and starts. The ps3 xmb work fine. Also the 360 turn on when both buttons are held but doesn’t bring up the guide that’s all.

That’s a known issue at the moment.

hey toodles, just wanted to say sorry i’ve been out of the loop on the beta testing for the chimp. been busy with real life to get much posting done.

anyways couple things.

i had the chimp dual’d with a madcatz arcade stick pcb for a couple weeks (nothing unusual to report) but switched it out to a 4716 about 2 weeks ago for use at ncr.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n5/akuma001/IMG_0813.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n5/akuma001/IMG_0814.jpg
into this
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n5/akuma001/IMG_0735.jpg

i used the 3k invert on my roundhouse and had no problems during all tourney and casual play. played on a buncha ps3’s there (which a good half was used at evo since mr. wizard was kind enough to lend them to us for the tourney) and had a bunch of other players borrow my stick. no complaints. 4k invert is on one of the top buttons but doesn’t get much use since my stick is a 6 face stick.

also played on 3 different 360’s including my own over the last 2 weeks with local players. no problems with the stick not instantly recognizing whatsoever on powered systems.

as far as the start + select to get the guide button i didn’t check till a couple minutes ago but it doesn’t work on my arcade 360. ps3 works fine though on my 60 gig launch system.

i’ve pretty much tested the setup with every usa ps2, ps3, backwards compatible xbox, and xbox 360 fighting game there is. if it’s a fighting game that can be played on a stick, it’s 99% i’ve tried it. haven’t had any problems or anything unusual happen.

but yeah, glad to see you’re getting them out there and good luck with the chimp sales and all future projects. :tup:

For those of you who got the ChImp or will be getting it soon. Here is a pinout chart I made after I discovered mistakes in my wiring. This is the two rows of holes at the end of the board. 1-11 & A-K. I color coded the types of connections so it is easier for me at least to keep track. I also included the standard button mappings for the 360.

Michael

Thanks for testing it out akuma001.
Kaytrim, it wasnt explicitly stated, but I hope that means you got everything working. If so, then we don’t have any known stragglers except for the Start+Select Guide problem, but we’ll know if I got that fixed in the code shortly after Spektrum gets his new chimps.

If anyone has any feedback, good or ill, especially about tweaks that should be done to the chimp, please speak up; right now, the start+select problem is the only thing I’m waiting on hearing about before I take go gold with the code.

Hi, I know no drivers are needed for Mac, but I was wondering what programs Mac users use to test the Cthulhu button inputs?

Everything is great and the only concern I have is with the usb through hole spacing. Well more so the contact pads on the bottom of the board. Now that they are square shaped, they seem closer to each other than before. I’m a bit paranoid having the 5v so close to the other pads and having a nasty short.

I also hope you do decide to sell a kit form of the ChImp.

You know…I thought those holes were a little close as well.

Hmm, I’ll have to take a look at that when I get them myself.

I suppose a temporary workaround for a bit of paranoia would be to take an exacto and cut between the pads, so it’ll have a + mark in between the 4 holes. I don’t mean cut all the way through, just a tiny bit so that it ensures separation.

I haven’t finished rewiring the 360 connection but yea that would be the source of the problem. I had the data connections and a few of the others mixed up.

I thought so as well. I know that you wanted to keep this board small for production reasons, Marcus. Why not just have the USB connections and the inverter connections there. The rest of the wires from the 360 pad can go into the screw terminals then to the buttons from there. This is how I normally wire it up anyway.

You don’t want to do that you could cut the traces on the board braking these connections. See my comment to spektrum.

I agree, I don’t mean cutting anywhere except in between the 4 lines that are specifically for the outgoing USB (square pads now), there shouldn’t be traces running between those anyhow.

Cutting’s a bad idea anyhow, I wouldn’t do it myself…just use a small amount of solder and you should be golden, but that’s a last resort that someone told me as a tip to stifle shorting between pads. Looking at the board again, the pads don’t look any different than they were on the cthulu, and just a bit bigger than what was on the Imp.

Kaytrim, are you suggesting removing the end header section in lieu of having the 360 D+/-/invert lines a direct solder close to the front where the 360 D+/- lines are now w/ the screw terminals being the only way to connect the 360 button data lines? I dunno, I really like having that end header capability…it really keeps things clean.

nah, I was referring to the two rows of holes at the other end of the board. Heck if there was room you could have screw terminals there for the 6 wires. But I don’t think there is room unless you stretch the board a bit or use smaller terminals. I am just thinking about the end user here. Trying to solder 19 wires into those small, close set holes without raising the solder pads is a bear. Not everyone is going to have the best soldering iron for that job. I have already lifted about 5 of them myself. I just don’t have the dexterity I used to. Of course I am 42 and have injured each hand trying to build these cases. :wink:

Michael