Microsoft doesn’t make a common ground wired controller, so you should really determine what it is.
If it’s a madcatz, then yeah, you only need to join the ground in one spot.
Can you take a pic?
Short+strong+roundhouse forces 360 mode. There isn’t a ‘force PS3’ mode, its where it goes if its not connected to a 360.
So I found out it is a madcatz controller. Here is a link to some pictures to help find the problem.
Did you remove the trigger pots from the back of the pad, and did you use resistors to neutralize them?
:wonder: I had this stick built because I don’t know how to mod. So is there something I could check for myself to see if what u said about resistors and trigger pots is true or not?
Try to get a good close pic of the back of the pad for us.
Here ya go.
http://img267.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=pcb001.jpg
BTW, how do u put full size pics in the thread and not just links or small thumbnails?
I don’t see any resistors to neutralize those triggers…
It doesn’t look like they’re wired up though.
It’s a 6 button hack, I don’t believe the triggers were hooked up at all.
Yo Toodles. I was wondering if you were ever going to sell un-assembled Cthulhu boards again? I don’t really want to pay the extra money when I prefer for the mod to have a more solid connection anyway (IE soldering). I am interested in trying your ChImp out, but at the same time, I am not sure how great of a tester I would be considering I have terrible attendance on the internet right now thanks to current events.
Let me know, great work on the ChImp by the way, the shit sounds to be solid to the max. IF you don’t mind the lack of reliable input part of me being a tester., lemme know, I’d probably pick one up.
Thanks!
-Jeremy
Yes, they do.
Not all models are common ground (like how not all wired Mad Catz pads are common ground), but I’ve used enough official wired pads in dual mods to prove this, as have many other modders - there’s only a few places where you can tap the CG point in a Microsoft wired pad, but they can be found.
Toodles - I’m sure you get enough of this question, but for the Hell of it do you know approximately when your next batch of Cthulhu boards and IMPs will be available on Lizard Lick?
Thanks,
I received the replacement chimp and chip. Was able to wire up the 4066 chip to the first chimp board and tested it. First I tested it on my laptop and it recognized it as a chimp board only (like expected). I then went to test on my xbox. At first it wasn’t recognizing it. I then tried to do the forced switch which worked and then I logged into xbox live. After I had done that and replugged the stick, it would auto switch like it should (yay!). I then tried it on my xbox again but this time being logged out of xbox live, it still worked correctly. I switched back and forth between my laptop and xbox and it auto switched fine.
I’m going to wire up the other chimp to my custom stick and test out the inverter aspect of the chimp with a madcatz controller.
here’s a pic of my TE setup with the chimp.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/projects/P1030108.jpg
That is incorrect. There is a common line wired Microsoft pad, but that’s not the same thing as common ground. You may still be able to get it to work in dual mods, but it can also cause issues, too.
Source:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=635462
That’s really cool, I can’t wait to order a Chimp for my TE stick!
Toodles,
I have a custom stick that has a madcatz Xbox 360 pcb and a PS3/PC Cthulhu pcb using a dpdt rocker switch to select which pcb is active. There is a picture of the inside of this stick in this post. I know that it isn’t the most elegant wiring, but it seemed to work.
I have been using the stick like this with everything working perfectly for about 4 months. I tried to play on my PS3 today and the Cthulhu wasn’t recognized. No inputs worked at all. I then plugged it into my PC and windows did not recognize it either. Everything still works fine for the Madcatz 360 pcb both on the 360 and on my PC.
Do you know what could have happened for it to suddenly stop working? Can you think of anything that can be done to get it working again?
Thanks,
Ox
just finished wiring up the 2nd chimp. This time testing out the inverted 3k and 4k. Worked perfectly. Didn’t have to remove the trigger pots, just wired up the inv 3k n 4k wires to the middle pins of the pots.
Also had no issue with the auto switch when plugged into my laptop and xbox.
NEC is in 2 weeks, so I’ll be taking the two chimp modded sticks with me to get a chance for lots of different system testings.
Answered in detail in the FAQs, first post.
It’s not like I have any way of long distance punishing someone for not reporting how it went 
I’ve got 7 of the open beta chimps still unspoken for. If you’re cool with the ‘If you can’t get it to work, tough titties.’ support policy, feel free to pick one up.
pics or it didn’t happen. I’ll believe it when I see one for myself, or a post from RDC about it. I don’t know of any model of first party 360 pad he hasn’t documented yet, and he hasn’t documented a common ground wired pad.
I’m putting together a box for him now, so hopefully within the week.
I seriously cannot think of anything in the chimp that would cause it to not work until X happens. There’s no storage, no saved states, nothing. But I am glad to hear you got it working. Thanks again for pointing out the chip mistake I made.
No need to wait, I got some available now.
Nope, but there’s a lengthy troubleshooting guide linked to in the first post. You should start there to see if you can make any headway.
Please please please, don’t say that. You can handle and troubleshoot your own issues, but the rule needs to be that the pots should be removed.
The 3KINV and 4KINV lines are old fashioned output pins from the PIC, driven high or low. If the pot is perfectly centered, you’re probably pretty safe. But if the pot is turned to one end or the other, then there is a low resistance between the wiper and that end; If that end is high voltage and the wiper is forced low by the chimp, short. If that end is low voltage and the wiper is forced high by the chimp, short. Sure, the current will be limited to about 25mA per pin by the PIC, but its still a bad thing, and you gain nothing by leaving the pots on.
So please, for anyone reading this, and anyone you tell in the future, yank the pots.
But I am very glad to hear that the inverting works as it should.
Ah, didn’t know I should have removed the pots. Thanks for the info.
I got my chimp installed with a 4716 pad and everthing is working good. I used the built in inverter, removed the pots and they work like a charm.
One thing that is strange though…I tested the start+select option for guide and I works fine on the ps3, but on the 360 it only works one time. If I turn on the system and press start and select the guide will come up, but once I exit and try again…it wouldn’t come up again.
I’m not sure why this is, but I just wired select to home for the interim.
Systems tried and tested working:
60 gig ps3
elite 360
Dell laptop w/ vista
Good info to have.
Can anyone else with one chime in on how the start+select works on their 360? You can test it out, even if you have a Guide button, just dont press it