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I think a jumper would be much easier for that option and safer to understand. I don’t know if you have enough pins on the PIC to do that though. In terms of the code having to set that flag in EEPROM and programming that button combo for reset - it can be avoided if you have that jumper. From a builder’s perspective (having built 5+ MC+ TE sticks) I would much prefer a jumper method to do that. If you don’t, then your above option is the best one so far.
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You don’t have to worry about this at all. Most people turn on the console manually, or put the stick in after the console has started up. You shouldn’t have to do some advanced case statements or state machines to get it to recognize a 360 when it is off to turn it on.
Hmm, for me 1. isn’t an issue, that sounds fine as long as when I plug it in I’m still able to use the Home button’s functionality (i use that to make sure it’s switched to PS3 correctly). Since it autodetects I don’t really care what it’s doing before I need to use it though.
- I don’t really care if I can’t turn on the console with the home button, that’s not a deal breaker at all with me. I doubt there will be many people bothered by that, especially if you can leave your controller in the system after it’s off and then turn it on with the home button AFTER that.
Number 2 is no issue at all, most people who need that feature don’t generally need a dual modded stick (360 based home cab builds for example).
Dear SRK,
I fear I have driven Toodles insane. If we end up seeing reports of Toodles running around in black tights with Fruit of the Loom on the outside screaming, “I am the night!” I apologize in advance.
Sincerely,
jinxmitchell
It works. American parts own me, but let me atleast explain why. I was dumb enough to start changing QD’s around while the stick was plugged in and when I changed the connection from the NC to the NO line, everything started to freak out, and it seemed like changing was the cause. I think was threw me off most was that everything worked fine until the home button was pressed. Anyway, thanks for the help and patience. + Rep given
I just finished assembling a Cthulhu board tonight and everything seems to work fine except the 2p and 3p inputs.
I have checked the connections on the wires and they seem to be fine. Even if I take a wire and directly connect between the points on the board and each ground I still get nothing.
I have checked my soldering points on the board and I don’t see any places where I have shorted a connection or failed to make one. Is it possible I have overheated some component during soldering? I don’t see any black marks or cracks or anything like that. Everything on the controller behaves fine, except these two buttons simply don’t respond.
Help please?
Issue has been solved
I re-checked every solder point and noticed that two of the points were not soldered correctly. They were blobs of solder that had come loose from the pcb. I resoldered them and the inputs started working.
I think the start select = home/guide will definitely be a problem for Tekken players… we have our share or custom sticks and my 360 stick is dual modded for SFIV, but now Tekken is on both consoles. Start and select is a tekken soft reset which will bring us to the main screen… it’ll be pretty annoying if we have to go to the main screen everytime we need to check a message or something.
It’s not a problem if you don’t use the shortcut. Just wire a dedicated home button.
Just double checking you need a USB 2.0 A Male to B Male for the Cthulhu.
Just to remind people that might not already know-
Cthulhu products are ten dollars cheaper at gamingnow.net than I believe any other store right now.
Also, now OBSF-30s are only 1.99$
-Nareg
Hey Toodles I would like to congratulate you on making such an awesome setup. I just got mine working on first start up on an SE w/ Seimitsu hardware. I also think I played you on MvC2 and gave you a pretty good time tonight if your PSN is ToodlesDC… on your own dual-mod.
Damn you for not selling the kits anymore, Toodles.
Desoldering terminal blocks is quite possibly the most obnoxious thing ever.
Use a desoldering pump or desoldering iron.
if all else fails, theres always the dremel.
Believe me, i’ve used both. Desoldering iron was first up, and it gets the majority out…but the terminals hang on by what’s inside the hole. Also fuck radio shack’s desoldering iron, the tip is so huge you end up burning the PCB edges by accident. If it had more suction it would be pretty damn good though, maybe I’ll mess with it and try to change the bulb out for a big solder sucker to get that extra bit of sucking power… it may help.
so I reflowed, then used wick/pump with not much luck. A coworker just showed me a new way to try out, so after work I’ll be using the method he showed me, which is basically using the wick in a more finesse way (read: cramming a bit of wick into the hole to get the rest out), then a really broad iron tip to heat multiple pins at once and just kinda work the thing until it comes out.
He say she’s gotta do the same shit on arcades he works on, where there’s long strips that tend to hang on by a TINY amount of solder.
That crossed my mind as a last resort, but I figure I’ve got lots more desoldering to do, so I might as well grit and bear it to get practice instead of being lazy about it. Learning new techniques is always a GOOD thing, even if you have to curse and sweat to get to that point.
edit: That depends completely on how fucked up the PCB is by the time you’re done 
And what is it you’re trying to do that requires removing the screw terminals?
lol you dont wanna know. you might blush.
Just another fun project that requires stuffing small things into smaller things 
Although I’m not actually redoing your PCB this time around, just gotta remove the larger components (terminals and USB jack)
I completely ruined the contacts underneath the screw terminals when I removed them and I broke a resistor network. I managed to salvage it though but I have to go through the top 2 rows now, no biggie since thats what I was going to use anyway for a dual mod 360 TE
which diagram to use for dual mod?
I’m new here, but I’ve allready found a lot of usefull information here. I want to do a dual mod with a mc chthulhu, imp and madcatz xbox 360 controller. I’ve found a lot of diagrams and many different set ups. But I found this diagram and my question is this one right?
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/5363/wiringdiagram.jpg
If so then its easy. If not which one is correct?