Alright, finally back home from a kick ass Evo. Now to see if I can catch up. If I end up missing your post, feel free to point it out to me.
I’m back, so I can ship out after its paid for. All of the orders that have come in since last Wednesday will go out asap.
- It connects via USB.
- Umm, I’m not sure if there’s something specific you’re asking here. If you got the disassembled board, you’d have to assemble it. But more on this in #4
- If you get the PS3 only version, you’d have one USB cable coming out of the stick that works on the PS3 and PC. When playing PS2 or PS1 games on a PS3 that supports backwards compatibility, it will work just fine and plugs into the PS3 via USB like normal. If that’s all you need, then just get the PS3 only version. You should get the MC version if and only if you want more than one cord coming out of the box. If you want both a USB and a playstation cord that plugs into a PS2 system, then you’d want an MC. Definitely read the first post of FAQs to see if it helps with any confusion.
- Alright, HRAP2. Installing a Cthulhu in an HRAP2 is really easy, especially with the assembled version. When you open the stick up, you’ll see a crap ton of wires all going to the little board under the turbo switches. Cut the wires close to that little board, and screw them down in the screw terminals. Then:
For PS3 (USB) Only: Unplug the PS2 cable from the little board and remove it from the stick. Find a long USB A-to-B cable, run it along the same path so the B end is inside the case, and plug it into the Cthulhu jack. Close up stick, you’re done. You’ll notice that there is no soldering involved here.
For both PS3 (USB) and a playstation cord: Unplug the PSX cable from the little board. Cut the small white connector off of the end, pull the cut end so it is inside the case with the cord’s little ‘pull stop’ thingy still in the notch in the back plastic. Follow the ‘How to install a PSX cord on an MC Cthulhu’ instructable to pin out the cord and solder it to the 7 holes listed in the instructable. Find a long USB A-to-B cable, and work its way through the holes under the switches so the B end is inside the case and plugged into the Cthulhu. Use a pocket knife or dremel to make a little notch the PSX cord plugs into a little taller, so the USB cable comes out on top, and the PSX cord with pull stop helps keep the USB cord snug. Close up and you’re done. Minimal soldering involved here as long as you start with an assembled board.
Hehe. Glad you caught that. For those keeping score at home, the answers are:
- Always.
- Yup
- Honestly, they’re pretty tough chips. Just get in, solder, and get done, and you wont have any problems.
- Not really. Its really a ‘Warning: Coffee is hot.’ kinda label.
I will look into this when I can. I have never used a swap magic before so I have no experience with this, but I’ll see what I can do.
The easiest thing to do would be to get an assembled cthulhu, cut all of the wires close to the ps2 board that’s there, strip a little insulation off of the wires, and screw them all into the cthulhu screw terminals. You’d need to get an A-to-B USB cable, and you’re done. If you get the unassembled cthulhu instead, you can do the same thing, but you’d have to solder the board together yourself, and solder the wires to the board, or buy screw terminals to install on the cthulhu so you can screw the wires in. Since it sounds like a custom and not a mod of a retail stick, I HIGHLY recommend you get a USB jack as well if you order an unassembled cthulhu, so the USB cable can be plugged in properly instead of cut and soldered in. The USB jack is already present on the assembled board.
- It sounds like the ‘2k’ button is shorted to vcc. You need to locate where the short is and fix it.
- There’s always a voltage reading, even if the voltage is 0.00
Two golden rules of dual pcb mods:
- All pcb’s must be common ground.
- All pcb’s must be powered at all times.
At a guess, you probably violated rule #2. Make sure both boards are powered no matter which ones is plugged in.
Or perhaps whomever told you there was such a thing as a first party wired common ground 360 pad was wrong. They don’t exist, so you’re violating rule #1.
It’s an N4148 diode, very cheap and easy to replace from any radio shack or Fry’s. Or if you order again some time in the future I can throw a few spares in.
Let it be a lesson; don’t fix something if it isn’t what’s broken. Figure out piece of the puzzle isn’t working before trying random things.
‘but the cable was plugged in’ worries me. If it was plugged into the PC first, it’d go into USB mode and never try to talk PSX. The PSX also uses one of the lines used by USB, so if the USB on the computer is sending data, it’d be useless to the PSX. Never plug into more than one console at a time.