The Link: The Quick-Disconnect JLF Shaft!

Sounds like something isn’t back in correctly or misaligned. Mind posting up some shots of the assembly?

this is the order i reassemble it in

i keep this part on top

this part likes to get caught on the microswitches on teh way down, but i make sure it goes behind them

Your pivot (the semi-sphere thinggie) is upside down.

You’re also assembling it in the wrong order.

  • Hold the shaft (har har)
  • Put pivot (the semi-sphere) on, with the rounded side towards the BOTTOM of the shaft (ie, towards the E-clip).
  • Put that assembly into the body housing from the TOP
  • Put the pressure base on, from the BOTTOM of the housing
  • Put the spring on
  • Put the actuator on
  • Put the e-clip back on

wow i don’t know why that didn’t occur to me, thanks that fixed it :smiley:

Ok, so I am gonna install a link pretty soon. I didn’t read this entire thread, but do people cover the hole when they take the stick out with a 24mm plug? Or do they just leave it open?

Both

It depends on the person and if the plug fits on your stick.

  1. Why didn’t you read the entire thread?

  2. a 24mm plug will work, but you’ll need to cut the tabs; otherwise it’ll get stuck

  3. Phreakmods offers a plug/cap/cover as well, I believe.

Probably because it’s 21 pages at this point?

Yeah it just depends on the user. A 24mm button cap works just fine if you have something with a diameter that works for it. A TE, for example has a hole that works, an HRAP doesn’t. Just do a quick measurement, but if you do definitely snap the tabs off… that’d be such a bitch to remove if you don’t, lol.

Otherwise, I keep forgetting to add this to the first post (going to do that now), but you can get a cap I did a quick design for here… it locks to the base piece, and ignores the hole size. The only catch is it sits a little taller so that you can put the dust cover underneath and be as thick as the custom plexi ones, so if you don’t have one it wobbles slightly.

Which really reminds me; I had a custom plug that I started making back when you released your first V1 batch. Never did get around to finishing it, but I always thought a button plug that was made to look like a standard pushbutton would be hilarious.

The only progress I’ve gotten on it since that pic was taken was having the thing sanded and primed…

I ended up ordering 2. I lost the cap I got from you any ways from the Kick starter.

Has anyone had any problems with a Link that gets a little stubborn about loosening itself? I have one installed that suddenly decided it wanted to be a regular shaft again and I can’t remove it. Lifting the collar doesn’t do anything.

It’s happened before and I remedied it by opening my stick and straight up pulling it out myself. I cleaned the inner shaft since I thought it was a jamming problem, but it coming up again so soon tells me otherwise. Any solutions?

What happens is the ball bearings dig into the base, causing ruts that can make the unit get a bit more finicky on release, sometimes completely stuck. You can (for now) remove it if it gets stuck entirely by engaging the collar and then tapping the lower section on the edge of a table, rotating the entire thing so that you can shake all 3 bearings loose.

The current solution is just to get you a new base, next batch I’m looking into fire hardening to alleviate this, but I have a lot of bases to get through until the next batch :stuck_out_tongue:

Just a head’s up for those who don’t have twitter or facebook (although I rarely use FB since they started killing organic reach).

I finally got a quote back and have my parts with me today. I should be dropping the remaining Link bases off to a local spot to get them all fire/induction hardened up to a WAY harder rockwell spec.

Benefits: Should quell the “stuck link” issue, where this would occur when ball bearings would literally dig into the base, a side effect of the increased grip strength.
Cons: They may come out slightly discolored?.. I actually don’t know yet, I’m getting them glass bead blasted which should help with that.

It’s really damn cheap to get this done, so if I get the stock of them back and it didn’t have any weird effects of note, I’ll be doing this for any future runs outright.

Once I confirm they’re OK, I will offer them to people who have had issues as a separately available item. I don’t really like doing that normally since sometimes the mechanical tolerances require me to find proper matches before I box them up, but this is probably a faster alternative for some that have been waiting.

Again, I wanted to say thanks for the continued support on this project. It’s still evolving, even this long after the launch.

Just heard back. I messed the order up slightly and found it’s more expensive than I thought… although really for what they’re doing and what it can offer it’s still a pretty inexpensive process.

At any rate, problem cleared up and they’ll run them tonight, so unless there’s crazy issues I should have them back with me shortly and tested before the week is out. I’ll let you guys know how it goes.

Well if they come out with a different finish / colour I may be persuaded to buy another one. I think it’s a great product, my only complaint is that it doesn’t have a nice finish and I can’t cover it up without defeating the purpose of the device.

Do you have any plans to sell link tops seperately from the bottoms? I have a few different ball tops of various shapes and sizes I like to switch between depending on the game. Would be nice just to swap them without having to use an alan key. I don’t need another bottom piece, but an extra top piece would be handy.

@RosserRooster used to powder-coat Link shafts; doesn’t seem like he does it anymore. Besides, he hasn’t logged onto SRK in almost a year, so I’m presuming regular-life got in the way.

I have a semi-gloss-black powder-coated Link top-part that I got back then that I still cherish greatly, among my 3 other “regular” brushed-aluminum Links. Unfortunately, my main lever has been the LS-40 for a good while, so my Links haven’t really seen much action lately…

I was wondering if it was possible to have one of these fit in a Crown 303-FK. Is it possible to just remove the shaft and put one of these in?

I doubt it would work. I think the crown has a different length shaft, or possibly a different diameter. I’m not sure, I don’t know myself.

Anyone know anything about powder coating these on our ends? If phreak can start offering them in different colors, awesome. If not, I wanna give it a shot.

My black link from EVO2012 is cool, but I’d like to bring the links I got from the kickstarter up to sexydom and stick them in a hayabusa.

The person who was power coating the LINK hasn’t been heard of in a while.