If it’s paint, you could try nail polish remover.
What is making these buttons stick? I have used mine for about 4 days now and they are pretty darn springy and responsive. If they do go to shit then I’ll just get a head start by ripping the guts out while I wait on my sanwa goodies.
Sorry for offending anyone. I wasn’t very clear at first about the difference between a 4-Gate and 8-Gate. I had originally thought the the 8-Gate was the octagonal kind and that the 4-Gate was the square box. Also, speaking for myself and my friends, it is not a matter of “riding the gate” or using our arm, but it is just a matter of what most Americans are used to playing. All of the SF type arcade sticks that were made back for XBOX and PS games were octagonal as I remember. Even the original cheapy Capcom branded stick for SNES was octagonal and not the square box. So for us, after playing SF games for almost 20 yrs. we are just used to this feel when moving the stick. The same goes for using a BAT style stick.
I do want to replace all of the buttons. This was going to be the next questions I had. Looking at pictures of the Seimitsu PS-14-KN 30mm Pushbutton it is not clear toi me if these are the concave style which is what I want to get.
No,no offending me. I just thought it was funny that literally the exact same question got asked and answered 3 seperate times on 1 page. Just funny that’s all. & if you aren’t riding the gate it shouldent matter what shape it is since you never touch it. Basically what I’m saying is that you are using the guide as a guide. Which is how American sticks are used. It’s what is making the qcf mitions feel clunky. I don’t believe there has ever been a retail lap stick that comes stock with an octo gate that was worth buying.
I am not saying that riding the gate or using your arm are bad habits. It’s just from personal experience that when I was using American stuff they were WAY too stiff to do anything but put your whole body into it. You can’t really use just your wrist on happ parts you will pull a muscel. So when iswitched to a square I kept getting fought in the corners. It makes the transition easier to get an octo. Then once your used to the very light spring tension I the JLF you coup throw the square on & will feel natural.
Riding the gate, that’s what it is. Last night I was playing a realized that I hardly even feel the gate, so players who don’t like it must keep the stick pressed forward or back all the time. I try to play so I just touch the switch, I usually don’t feel the gate actually.
Nobody seems to know the answer, so I’ll just ask if the wiring harness that comes with the JLF has stranded wires?
You could also try Citristrip, the stuff works wonders. I’d recommend testing it on the inside of the case shell just to make sure it plays nice with the plastic.
Hey, new to sticks, been looking through the forums and stick FAQS/stickies on this site an others, and havent found the answer to this question. Do the Sanwa/Seimitsu sticks rotate like the SE stick does>? By rotate I mean actually spin the ball and shaft (not move left/right up/down, SPIN). This is extremely annoying since I use the bottoms of my fingers for movement. Sometimes instead of getting the desired input, the ball will rotate a tad and throw it off. IF there is a way to fix this, feel free to let me know. =) Otherwise this is my main reason for ordering some new parts.
The JLF does to a lesser extent. I’m not sure about the LS-32 but I would expect it to as well.
So does anybody know if the JLF wiring harness is stranded or not? http://wpcontent.answers.com/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/74/Stranded_lamp_wire.jpg/180px-Stranded_lamp_wire.jpg
GAH that really stinks. I hate that movement. Know of any way I can make it stop? Although I guess they are designed that way for a reason…
I don’t notice it at all since switching to a bat top. With a bat top you hold the stick differently and there is less fine-wrist-action, instead using your whole arm, so that seems to make a difference.
Great demonstration…I was on the border about whether or not I was going to MOD my SE Sticks, but looking at that has convinced me. Just one major question, for anybody that knows the answer.
The madcatz joystick has been known to scratch the PCB, or whatever it’s called, because of a loose washer. If I were to replace the stock joystick with a sanwa joystick, will I also be replacing that PCB? Or is that something that needs to stay?
Thanks in advance for any answers.
Shaboogawa, yes that would also replace the actual joystick’s scratched PCB. JLFs have a little PCB inside with microswitches on it.
The main PCB of the SE itself is not affected by the faulty joysticks and you won’t need to mess with it.
Great thanks Bomberman, I’m definitely ordering my sanwa parts when I get off of work today!!!
Just got my parts from lizard lick and modded my stick. I never would have had the balls to do it without this guide. I’ll post pics a little bit later. Thanks Sileighty.
Heres my modded stick. Couldn’t have done it without help from you guys. Thanks a lot.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/ebpoll/IMG_0916.jpg?t=1235853165
Hey WarthogWHeelman, how long did it take lizardlick to send you your parts from the time that it was ordered?
I ordered on the 15th in the morning. I got my tracking number LATE tuesday night and the stuff shipped out Wednesday.
The orange and yellow buttons are really cool, Warthog.