500W RMS @ 4 ohms, no not the hatchback, 4DR sedan
Niceness. Do you ahve a brand preference? For me personally if I’m not ‘going for broke’ I want JLs. I think they are the best high-low-end and high-middle range company when it comes to SQ for any kind of driver/woofer. Morem oney than I go JBL. Boston Acoustics is solid, but lost alot of points from me with the actual ‘design’ of their woofers a few years back. Flames are so faux pas with vehicles. Anyways you have a few options. You can look at getting subs to crank up the volume, it takes up mroe room in your trunk, will ahve a smaller frequency range, but will give you more oomph. You can go for better actual SQ and go with a SINGLE high quality 10" woofer (its late so I’ll look it up another time, but see about finding one of the older generation JL W6s, they hit almost as nice as W7s - I think your amp can power it), this wil ltake up less room, give you a larger frequency scale, but won’t necessarily be as potentially loud as two drivers would be. Once you figure out which way you want to go in regards to # of subs then you know what kind of budget you have for box/subs and what lvl you can afford, as well as what subs will match or come close to the amp output.
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i want some a nice system with 1 12" sub for about 400-500 i got grand prix gtp older model and i dont want my car to start falling apart just some really nice music.
A 12" woofer can sound every bit as good as a 10" SQ-wise.
The main differences between a 10" and 12" woofer is the frequency band in whisch you get maximum performance. 12"s don’t oscillate as fast but move more air when they do, so they are better for low lows verse 10"s which are better for higher lows. ITs why rap and trance are better off in 12s while everythign else sits better in a ten (a case can be made for 8s w/ classical, but not worht it).
SQ is more a function of the engine/cone shape/cone material than actual size.
As for a 12 for that price, do you already have an aftermarket head-unit or are you riding stock?
And for those wanting to hear how good their system is, play OUtkast ‘Speakerboxxx’ intro at the highest volume that doens’t give you distortion. IF the lows don’t change much, or is silent for more than like 5 seconds - you failed the bass test.
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The element isn’t the pilot (Which is 10 grand more and has a V6, 250 HP) The element is the xB of Honda. (Always has been). I admit the HP on the element is weak, but its not like I am pulling a boat or anything like that. I shouldn’t be speeding with gear in the back in the first place. LOL
Mastermind is right though, the xB did get a engine upgrade to the current tC/Camry one (Camry has ~160 HP as will if you don’t get the V6 version) Seems like ~160HP is the highest for a 4 valve engine.
As for playing out my car…Nope. It can be done, but its not necessary at all. Wiring and speakers wouldn’t be the expensive part, its the modding of the actual car and the DJ equipment. A damn coffin for CDJs is 300 bucks!
Modding of the car? You don’t needt o do anythoug for it outside of speaker placement. Again, you’d just need to setup your stand outside of the vehicle. But to each is own. Just letting you know its actually a mroe affordable alternative than it looks.
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Got a question, really hope someone can help. My dad’s car sound system isn’t modded or tricked out, and has the factory stereo. It’s a 2000 Altima. The cd player took a shit 8 months ago, but that was no big deal. Now the radio makes this sound, no matter what station/band it’s on, and there is no sound level control. It’s either off, or full-blast crickets on crack trying to kill you with a sound wave. Can anyone here tell me whether or not we should take the car to a Nissan dealership to try to get this fixed, or just buy a new radio, and have them install it for us? Neither of us know how to install a car stereo so it won’t be a home-fix.
If its under warranty, Nissan is a no brainer, especially if everythign is stock.
Hmm yousaid 2000 though…doubt its under warranty.
Your best bet is a new setup…the system is ‘fried’, its not a loose connection or anything. Is it a BOSE setup? If not it isn’t too expensive and actually not difficult to do yourself for that model. Scoop a $100-$150 pioneer head-unit, grab the wire harness adapter and trim-kit from Walmart, then if you don’t want to do it yourself, take that stuff to Best Buy. You’ll save around 20 bux if you get the parts from walmart, and the performance difference is NOT a factor between the different sources of parts.
I’m sure you can find a tutorial somewhere on the net for 2k Altima though for a head-unit swap on a non-BOSE system.
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EDIT - I would avoid the dealership at all cost…they’ll slap you with an insane bill for the work/parts to keep it stock.
My turn to ask a question. I’m finally clearing out my long list of ‘to do’ projects, and one of them thats coming up in the next few months is my car audio system. Right now I’m riding with a pretty hairy system due to finances and the work needed to do work in my car.
Alpine 9881 Head Unit (I think thats the model)
Rockford Amp set to 400W RMS @ 4ohms
Rockford HX2 (1)
everything else is stock (Nissan Murano 05)…
In order of importance
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Where can I get a red top battery for cheap? I need a new battery as my current one is taking that fall in cold cranking amps, and I’d rather swap it out with something GOOD ahead of time, instead of something ‘bleh’ after I couldn’t start.
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Anyone ever use Stinger alternators? I know they make some crazy ones, but I’m not trying to dig too deep in my pocket for a 384A alternator.
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I’m thinking of finally looking at a double-din head unit. More than likely an Alpine, any advice on which models are good right now and at a good price?
Thanx
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- craigslist or ebay
- stinger makes good alts but expensive or go this route http://www.ohiogen.com/
- ugh a double din alpine i dunno
btw if you just running that one sub why not just use 1 channel amp?
There are two answers, one is a secret, the other one is simply I didn’t like the 1-channel amp I had access to at the time. I really need 200W more continuous to actually really push my woofer, but its no concern as I’m finalyl going to put in the second sub (its been in the box for like 4 years now un-used) so I’ll need a new amp anyway.
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What are your goals for the system and what are you looking for in the HU? I’d just get a nice battery for the trunk if possible, assuming your alt is up to the task.
Dont forget the Lexus SC… my stock speaker sound piff!! :bgrin: I
just replaced the stock sub…
JL can out-pound pretty much anyone if you can afford their shit.
Powers handling =/= sound quality. D-Class HD amps from JL are the best.
Clarion has the most reliable head-units. The DXZUSB is incredible.
Dynamat is good for dampening and enhancement.
Don’t buy from Best Buy, their stuff is junk and they don’t know what they’re doing.
LOL! 
JL is good but costs too much. Digital Designs, Sundown Audio, RE, Incriminator Audio, Fi, Ascendant Audio, DC, etc. all have a sub that can hang with or beat the W7 in output. HD amps are NOT the best. You can get more power for less. You want a supposed great “SQ” amp? Go buy a McIntosh. Sundown, Arc Audio, DLS, Zapco, and many others make GREAT amps that I would take any day over a JL HD.
I dunno about Clarion being the most reliable. I love my DXZ785USB, but it’s got a motorized face.
Dynamat is good, but Second Skin is the best.
Please, not every installer/car-fi associate at BB is an idiot. I work at BB and have to say some of these guys can be pretty knowledgeable. Also, Pioneer, Rockford, Alpine, Kenwood, and JVC are all junk?
What is sound quality?
difference in preference i suppose. like i said, 600w on a d-class circuit is gonna have way less fatigue. sure, a 2000w kenwood/alpine amp will pound for a few songs, but its gonna get hot and kill about 35% of your sound.
sound quality to me is equally textured lows, mids, and highs that don’t pop or break up at certain volumes, which happens to alot of BB brands I’ve listened to.
gotta love those jl audio aristocrats does that spent all that money think its the best thing rolling out . and lol at those brands being garbage head unit wise
You never said that. Might wanna lay off that crack.
Well yeah, I think the people in this thread know that a Class-D is more efficient than a Class A/B. That’s not the point. Kill 35% of the sound? How’d you get to that percentage? What are the audible differences between Class A/B and Class D?
Really, I wanna know why you think JL HDs are the best amps.
I have a JL 10W6V2, but only because I got it used for cheap. JL’s shit is way expensive.