There’s a layer that says Holes outline… Its pretty accuarate.
I’ve lined up artwork that I did before based on the stick placement using an overhead picture I took of the stick and working from that, because the top was too big to scan. In both of these designs I incorporated the stick into the art, so the placement had to be perfect
impressive work. It looks like the screws mounting your happ stick lay in flat with the metal plate, how did you make the mounting holes like that for your happ stick? and how did you remove those 4 awfully small mounting plates for the joystick on the T5? I’m thinking of putting a Seimitsu stick in there.
I’m debating wether to put them in their old spots, put them on the back, or maybe two more 24’s on the opposite corner. Regardless I’ve also gotta wait til i get my toggle switch in there. No accidentals for me.
The plate is really thick, so if you’re careful you can drill the top and bottom halves seperately. So drill the top half the diameter of the screw head, drill the bottom half slightly bigger than the screw threading, and then apply pressure so the bottom half sinks into the controller base. You may need to widen the top of the stick holes a bit too to make room for the bottom half of the metal plate that’s sinking in.
You would just drill thru the 4 solder joints on the old mounting bracket to get that off, but again you can do it really slowly so as not to go all the way through (not that it matters really).
Heh, thanks man. 'Preciate it. It kind has to be around that area to clear the inner plastic. I guess I could have cut the base plastic if i wanted to, but I learned from the doa4 mod that a lower stick is actually way more comfortable since your wrists lay along the same line. Plus I didn’t like how close the stick was to the buttons since I think happ players wouldn’t like the bunched up feeling with a higher resistance stick.
DH020, I mentioned there was one in a local store (one I actually returned) for the $30 deal, but I don’t know how much shipping will be for it to the UK. Within the US it’s around $15. I unfortunately don’t know the weight on it so I can’t even do a reasonable estimate. Just did an estimate for it at the USPS website: http://postcalc.usps.gov/intl_speed.asp?CID=10150&MailType=package&Pounds=8&Ounces=0
I used 8 pounds because I think that is at least close. If someone has a better idea, you can readjust it. But right now for airmail you’re looking at $40. That’s $30 plus tax for the stick. Then there are other costs like packaging and maybe PayPal fees. It’ll be coming close to $80 or more.
I’d honestly be willing to do it as long as I don’t lose money on it, obviously, but I can’t do that unless I know the true shipping weight after packaging and such. Anyway, just contact me on AIM and we can see if we can work something out.
I got a USB weight scale that hooks to my pc and grabs rates from USPS, UPS, FEDEX etc. I haven’t used it yet but I can boot it up and weigh my unopened tekken bundle. What say you?
Hey everyone, I’m going to mod a tekken 5 stick as well and I have a couple quick questions. I plan on getting a Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y ball top stick with seimitsu PS-14-K snap connecting buttons.
Do you recommend getting a mounting plate with the stick or is it easy to use the current mounting plate in the tekken 5 stick?
Besides ordering the buttons, do I need special cables for those? Or once I disconnect the current buttons will the connections just need to be resoldered to the seimitsu buttons?
Finally, can anyone tell me how thick a plexiglass cover needs to be in order to fit snug at the top in order to cover up my new printed art work? I just want it to be flush with the sides.
Thanks so much for reading and for any advice you can give me!
, the downside to living out of the us :@
