I have the JLF with very little use in this stick and noticed in training mode of SSF4 that UP, DOWN, LEFT and RIGHT directions will stay in either direction constantly until another input is registered. Kind of like it is holding down a certain direction on its own. If I input any other input including buttons, while it is holding down a particular direction by itself, it will then release the hold and go back to neutral position in the game. Sometimes if I crouch it will stay crouched, if I jump it will keep jumping, if I go left or right and even dash it will stay stuck at the very last registered directional input.
Is there a common problem with the original PCB’s? I double checked my CHIMP connections and looks fine in my eyes, and works fine while on PS3 mode but the problems happen while on Xbox 360 mode.
Anyone else encounter a similar issue, with or without a CHIMP installed?
That’s the same exact tutorial I used. =]
Except used hot glue instead of electrical tape.
Will triple check all solder points.
Thanks.
Hey Toodles,
What Slide Switch; where?
Will triple check all my work again.
Orientation: Well I purchased the CHIMP assembled w/o USB
Snap shots will be posted later today with an update.
Thanks for the quick reply.
The LS/DP/RS slide switch at the top fo the stick. It should be in ‘DP’ in the middle. If not, put it in DP and test again. Next, plug it into the PC with the three buttons down to force 360 mode. See if you can recreate the problem in the game controllers applet of the control panel.
what is the easiest way to bypass/disable CHIMP so i can test the madcatz pCB? trying to avoid desoldering wires. i can deal with screw terminals hehheh =p
My apologies. I didn’t have time yesterday to disect the stick.
I just tried to bypass the CHIMP on the TE (1st gen) and the green circle of light flashed once and Win7 (32-bit) failed to install the driver, confirming ‘unknown usb device’.
I plugged in my TE ‘S’ and the driver installed flawlessly, confirming it as ‘TE Fightstick S’. I then opened up Game Controller program and all the inputs check out good for the TE ‘S’ (stock, no mods).
Any ideas why Win7 is failing to install the driver when the TE (CHIIMP) is plugged in?
Will take a look inside the stick and triple check connections and take snap shots.
Have a cool weekend~
P.s. I have the CHIMP screwed down into the black plastic support brace next to the main PCB; without any plastic legs to elevate it. Plastic isn’t conductive so I assume this is safe to do?
OK, pictures added at the very top of this thread.
After inspecting the insides I noticed that four of the button wires leading to the CHIMP (4k, 4p, 3k, 3p) were at the wrong locations, so my button config in the PS3 were incorrect. I did fix it and PS3 mode works correctly. I did notice that now one of the red lights for Turbo 3K is always on and the rest are not; all of the green sectors on the guide button are fully lit (but it has always done that in PS3 mode).
I tested again in 360 mode and the false directional inputs seem to have gone away for now (which I am really relieved about). But now I realized that in Win7 and Win XP (32-bit) cannot recognize the stick; even when holding down 1k, 2p, 3k and plugging in the USB (solid Guide button flash, 3 sec, and then off). And I get that ‘Unknown Device’ message.
All solder points look good, clean and not touching eachother.
I soldered the thick black wire from the USB to the CHIMP, including the other four wires, and I left the ‘SGND’ unused on the main PCB per the tutorial I used.
Should I just solder a lead from ‘SGND’ to the point on the CHIMP where I soldered the thick black USB lead?
What is the purpose of the thick black wire coming from the USB cable?
Mind you: My stock TE ‘S’ gets recognized in Windows 7 seamlessly…is there an updated PCB?
I wonder if the main PCB is intermittently malfunctioning causing random glitches, shorts…
Wow, looks like the ChImp design changed a little bit? I didn’t have those 4 USB connections off to the side.
The thick black wire is just another ground, and my instructions said to solder it to the larger opening on the ChImp. You can see it in this picture (click for full size on Flickr):
How much exposed wire do you have on the Xbox 360 PCB where the new USB wires were run? It either looks like there’s too much insulation missing (the black/ground in particular) around those (perhaps movement is causing them to touch) or maybe there’s too much solder/messy? The pictures are pretty blurry. Since your camera is decent resolution, it’s better to take it from farther away and just crop out the unnecessary parts of the photo.
That’s all I can guess from looking at the photos. Do you have a multimeter? If so, check to see if you have any lines crossed (put tip on 1 connection, touch it to all the other connections and make sure only the proper one beeps, then move on to next connection).
Most likely, a wiring issue of some sort. It’s not a software thing on your PC, if that’s what you’re thinking. The USB communication wires aren’t properly connecting ot the USB cable that plugs into your PC.
Nah, that’s fine.
The lights on a TE are very erratic in a dual mod. Sorry, there’s nothing I can do about it, nor any useful information to gleam from it.
That’s very odd, I take back what I said about it being a wiring issue, since if it works on a 360 it must be wired right. Any chance of trying a different PC with a different USB chipset? I wonder if they finally fixed the USB chipset problems they were having, and you have one with the problem and one without.
SGND (the thick black wire) can be either clipped entirely and ignored, or soldered to a ground point. Doesn’t matter in normal operation.
Shielding against interference.
Possibly.
Yup, that’s a 1.1 board that’s been out for a number of months.
I used a multimeter to check continuity on pretty much every combination at each point to point I can think of…
End of USB Cable to CHIMP tested good
CHIMP connections to Main PCB tested good
CHIMP connections to all 10 buttons tested good
Main PCB to Turbo/Guide PCB tested good
Tested TE stick in PS3 and 360 playing SSF4, no false inputs detected (very good thing)!
I tried switching from LS and DP and tested for differences and it feels and looks like LS may be a bit laggier than DP (DP is almost instant 'Input and Neutral", LS holds about a frame longer then goes to neurtral)
I popped out the larger micro chip out of the CHIMP (with everything still connected as a Dual Mod TE) and it is still unrecognized by my PC. I assume my Nvidia Chipset isn’t compatible with the 1st generation TE PCB’s. I will see if it will be detected on another PC with different chipset. So it seems as though 1st gen TE an more current TE’s on the market have a more modern PCB/Firmware.
Basically, the TE is working well now for PS3/360. I am left with a TE stick that is probably picky about which PC it’s used on.
So overall, the CHIMP isn’t the culprit. It looks to be that the 1st gen PCB and my motherboard are the gremlins in my situation.
I appreciate all the help and info that you guys were able to provide and chime in on.
Thanks a lot Donovan and Toodles~!
Your tutorial and CHIMP saved me some money, time and possible troubleshooting. =]
I seriously don’t understand why you’d ever want to use the TE board on the PC instead of the Chimp. Chimp works fully on all three USB chipsets, on all operating systems, and uses both the XY axis and POV hat to report directions, meaning better compatability with games than any other stick out there. The ONLY things I can think of the Chimp wont do that the TE can is turbo, and the ability to press the guide button in PC SF4. For anything else, Chimp kicks its ass three ways from Tuesday.
Ok, I am back to square one: With the CHIMP installed why is it that my PC still cannot recognize it, even when auto detect is not bypassed (1K, 2P, 3k)?
I get a flash of green light at all for sectors for half a second.
At my first dualmod with a chtulhu and imp, I had a problem that the chtulhu was easily recognized by my computer but not the madcatz pcb, the problem was in the wiring of the usb cable to the imp. To fix that, I had to solder some extension cables in the imp and solder the usb cable to this extensions, since then have been working great.
I popped out that large chip and that didn’t fix it. Should I pop both large and small chip out and see what happens?
Okay, so because you soldered the USB wiring directly (nothing in between) to the IMP/CHUTLHU, your PC had a hard time recognizing the MAIN PCB when you would bypass the Auto-Detect/Bypass feature?
And what do you mean by ‘extension cables’… did you simply cut/splice/solder new leads in between the USB wires and the IMP/CHUTLHU and that fixed it?? Wow; if so what was the technical problem? =]
Edit: When in PS3 Mode and playing on a PS3 console the joystick works fine and the same goes for playing on a X360, so I assume my USB wires soldering job is fair enough.
My PC just won’t recognize the joystick in either PS3/X360 Modes…
Perhaps your drivers got corrupted and when it goes to use them (on USB plug-in) they don’t load properly. Are you using any weird 3rd party stuff (controller drivers/apps/random software)?
It looks like your running Windows 7. Is it a real licensed up to date copy? What version (home premium, pro, ultimate)?
Have you tried it on any other PC, a friend’s perhaps? That would rule out any wiring issues if it works on other computers.
