I had a button issue pop up with my TE fightstick that is a little bit different. I was in mid battle and all of a sudden my lower row buttons would no longer register (X, O, R2, L2). X seems to work when I’m in the PS crossbar and selecting something but once I get in a match with someone, nothing. So, to troubleshoot a bit I found out that when I turn turbo on the L2 button registers right away and keeps blinking and if I’m in game will keep on registering it as if it is being pressed even though I haven’t touched it. The button isn’t stuck in the down position so I’m at a loss as to what is going on here. I’m wondering if anyone here might have any suggestions for me.
So…was it determined that it was a static problem?
Have you guys with Plexi on the top and bottom panels ran into this problem?
Because mine did it once today, and my SE did it quite frequently, but only when I was at a certain friends house, which is completely carpeted.
spoke with a madcatz guy and he said the static theory is bull… so anyone know what is the reason why RT/LT randomly stop working?
Because the PCBs are terrible. Was it a madcatz service person? Did he provide an alternate explanation?
It’s definitely the PCB board. I swapped the buttons AND wires for the RT button and this cutoff still occurs. The shameful part is my warranty is voided.
I think the only worthwhile solution for this WITHOUT sending it to MadCatz for repair is to assign the RT button to another input, like LT, or LB. My fightstick has the LT and LB buttons removed, so I can do that easily. Pretty much change the wiring so that the RT buttons are going into the LT or LB slot and then during play change the button config accordingly…
LT has the same issues. I swapped it with LB for a long time, but even then I have problems. Occasionally an entire row of buttons cuts out. Still waiting to hear from Mad Catz
Has anybody recorded this and posted on youtube? I just can’t see it happening…
Go into training and push all the buttons simultaneously with your flat hand rapidly for 30 seconds to a minute. Usually if I do this it generates enough static (maybe?) to screw up the board. Try it on your 360 TE and see…
Seems I got the same problem with my TE round 2 stick, LT/RT suddenly stopped working. Then I shut the xbox down and saw this thread, turned it on again and now they work.
But man, this sucks, I just got mine 2 days ago.
You would think they would have known about this problem before they released round 2.
i have the same problem i bought my TE for 360 back in july and and around early november my “Y” and “RT” button stopped working. At first i thought it was the button or wiring. But when i had a friend check it out it turned out it was either the terminal board or the PCB. So now im just going to use my Shit Edtion for spare parts for my brand new Hori EX-SE. Last time i buy anything from madcatz
did they ever send you a new pcb? I just emailed a request to them for a new pcb too.
shakes head And to think that Madcatz made a good product…so, so close Madcatz…
Still waiting to hear back at all… probably should call them
Eh, they wanted me to mail it in. There’s no way I’m going to do that 1) for the shipping, and 2) it is modded with a cthulhu
On a related note, I haven’t seen the issue since grounding the top and bottom plates… could be coincidence
It is a coincidence because the static electricity thing is a bunch of crap anyways. I’ve been through 3 TE PCBs and all of them have the same problem. The reason they stop working is a fault with the production. There really isn’t anything you can do aside from requesting another TE PCB hoping you get a good one or buying a new pcb all together. The pcbs they sent me as a replacement were all busted up anyways. One of them wouldn’t even turn on.
I just saved myself the hassle and bought a fight pad pcb. Haven’t had any problems ever since.
glory:
What system did you have the TE’s for??
Are you sure? I used to be able to reproduce it every time in training mode after about 30 seconds. After grounding the plates I can no longer reproduce it.
I’m not saying the PCB doesn’t suck (it does). I’m not saying a better PCB wouldn’t fix it, but it could be static that is causing the crappy PCB to malfunction.
Also HRAPs ground out the metal plates using the screws IIRC
i was going to get a TE since my SE’s rt and lf triggers are always dying. but looking through this thread i can see that they have the exact same shitty pcb. if they release new TE’s when super hits i’ll only get it after seeing if no one has problems here on srk. fucking mad catz.
Nick: Xbox 360
JMRO: If it was a grounding issue why doesn’t the problem occur on PS3 PCBs? Plus, I already told you. I use a fightpad pcb in my stick and I haven’t had an issue since. I haven’t grounded anything.
Also I know people who have had the same issue on SE sticks.
I’m agreeing with you man, the fightpad is a better pcb