So I purchased a used for parts arcade stick off Ebay thinking I could fix it since it was indicated that the only problem was the Joystick. After spending some time investigating the issue I have not found a solid answer to my issue. Using proper drivers and having checked the joystick PCB and even the wiring from the PCB to the Joystick Is till can not get it to default to neutral. I’ve seen that there is a possibility that the USB cable itself could be having issues, but other than a random post on reddit have found nothing to back this up. Is there a fix for this I’m just not finding or do i just need to replace the control PCB it came with?
imgur.com/a/n57Y6
That isn’t a USB cable problem. if you had the stick would not connect, have trouble connecting or have no power.
The issue ether lie in your joystick or PCB
Inspect the joystick, if you got a multimeter, use it to test each switch.
Once we eliminate the Joystick, lets check the PCB
Inspect the board make sure there no shorts and there no damaged or missing components.
I already checked the joystick PCB by simply swapping it with one I normally use in my 360 stick. I checked the PCB earlier and didn’t quite know what I would have been looking for so I’ll re-check it. Anything in specific I should look for? Not too familiar with how PCB’s work.
Use a 5k pull up resistor between left signal and 5v.
Or remove the diode that connects left signal and ground.
I just purchased a te2+ off ebay that is supposed to have this same issue. Interested in what you come up with.
First option requires a soldering iron, resister, and wire.
Second opinion needs just a soldering iron to desolder the diode or just a small flathead screw driver to break it off.
http://imgur.com/a/dprtR In those picture is the diode in question at the bottom of the board where I’ve highlighted it in red or at the top where the connector is. I just want to clarify so I don’t absolutely screw it up. When breaking off the diode would I just break off the ground pin? @Gummo
It’s in the bottom picture. They are near the connector. They are tiny black specs. Label is D followed by a number. If you can’t figure which of the 4 diodes is for the direction that is having issues you can just break all 4 off.
Lots of TE2s on Ebay advertised as non-working or for parts only. I also had this issue, but with a pushbutton signal—did the pull up resistor fix and it worked. If you are willing to do this fix, then you can pick up a TE2 for $40-60.
@Gummo thanks for this tip. I had one of madcatz defect pcb’s with down input active. Removed the offending diode. All good! Why are those diodes there anyways?
I believe the diodes and capacitors are there for button signal debouncing.
Not sure if it’s a case of a damaged diode something else.
@Gummo Do you have a mapping of the diodes for buttons, as well? I see lots of cheapo deals for slightly messed TE2s on eBay. Thanks!
Hey so I have a problem
My L3 wasnt working. I took the main board and removed 3 or 4 diodes near the l3 pin. or so i thought. turns out those were tied to the home button, the lock and the LEDs
After doing that I ended up finding the L3 diode right next to the button on the daughter board 
So what kind of resistors can I get to replace those?
edit: nvm i figured it out