I have a few questions about a Suzo Inductive Joystick. Would I be able to use it in a SFxT Fightstick Pro? I placed it inside the case and there’s enough clearance, but it looks like I would need to drill holes in the stick to line it up with the mount.
Would it be the proper height if I did this? Finally, how would I go about connecting it? The Fightstick’s harness does connect to the Suzo, but the Suzo has an additional pin which is for power.
If I’m not mistaken, Suzo Inductive Joysticks use the “american” style mounting holes/layout.
The SFxT casing has “Japanese” mounting holes/layout, which is different.
I’m not sure if anyone makes a mounting plate to put in American-style sticks into a natively Japanese-only casing; maybe one of the “universal mounting plates” that are sold might do the trick. Otherwise, you’ll have to get creative.
For the last pin, you’ll just have to find out where your power/VCC point is on your PCB, and do whatever you need to connect it (solder, quick disconnect, pin-header, etc)
Electrically its easy, you just need to tap into a source of 5 Volts, I would get it right from where the USB cable connects to the PCB. I would just run over to the joystick an extra wire. I assume you know how to solder? If not, there other ways to splice a wire in place, but soldering a wire to the solder point where the VCC or +5 volt line from the USB cable connects to the Stick’s PCB, its usually the red wire.
Now physically? I seen Happ and IL sticks fitted into a Mad Catz TE with heavy modification to both the case/ panel and the joystick it self. The Suzo, I don’t know how much you can get away with or how to go about it. I might suggest you find a stick with much more clearance than a SFxT Pro Fightstick.
I was under the impression I needed an alternate power source, good to know I don’t. The Fightstick Pro has a bit more clearance than the TE and the middle section doesn’t divide the button and joystick sections, so I was able to get the bottom panel back on with the Suzo sitting on the metal mount. Would properly mounting it require risers or something that would make it not fit? I can’t seem to find information or even pictures of it properly installed, but Suzo’s home computer / Atari joysticks seem to be much taller than Japanese style sticks.
As long as you can get the correct voltage and Amps. For example the PS1 and PS3 only supplies 3.3 volts. Then you ether need a DC to DC converter or a separate battery power supply.
Same here, or I would of provided links.
I am not sure to be honest.
And alternative if you haven’t acquired your Suzo joystick yet (or willing to use it in a different project or sell it), the Magenta Joystick from Paradise Arcade Shop is also an inductive joystick that uses the Sanwa JLF as a base. You will still need to run a separate +5 volt wire for power.
I got the Suzo because it’s supposed to be great for shmups, with its high good tension and low throw. I’m assuming the magenta is based more on a JLF, it sounds great otherwise.
I forget the diameter of the joystick hole, I think it needs to be 1 1/2 inch For that base. I have a Custom modular case, with a suzo inductive, but I had to 3d print a panel, this is one of those weirdest to mount joysticks and I’m not aware if there is a recommended spec on how to mount it. I just figured it out. It is late now but I’ll try to take pictures of how I have mine mounted.
Looks like that took a lot of work. That collar really is the most obnoxious part of mounting it. I wonder if a thinner part could be 3d printed to take its place, I suppose there’s not much a demand for it since these sticks have been out of production for years.
That IL solution looks nice, I’m just not sure if I would like the feel of their sticks. The Suzo feels like it would be perfect for shmups, which is mainly what I’m looking for. IL’s magnitic stick sounds promising though, do you know if that would work with it?
The very bottom of the collar at the base of the joystick has that .5 mm raised base that would prevent it from sitting flush. The washers made sure the stick was level without me having to widen the hole and 3d printing another mounting plate.