After seeing everybody great work on there customize stick i have decided to modified my FS3. I looked at the FS3 modding thread and I have a question. can anybody show me a pic of wires I might need? I have never mod a stick before or solder. Basically whats the easiest way to mod this thing? I plan on using the stock PCB, clear buttons and might put in another stick. Only stick I have because the HARP3.SE,TE sticks was sold out at the time. I preordered the tekken 6 bundle to mod so I might as well start with my FS3. Your comments are greatly appreciated
Something like this:
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html#WIRE
Through if you keep stock joystick i think it would be possible to not use any wire just solder new buttons in place of old ones.
If I was to use a sanwa joystick will they come with wires? I can start to tell my buttons aren’t responding like they used to.
bump
Joysticks do not come with wires.
Modify the Hori Fighting Stick 3, you can use the wires already inside if using stock PCB.
Or still even if use the stock PCB, you can buy Sanwa JLF-H (Wire Harness) and solder that onto stock PCB.
You can replace the wires on Hori PCB with the wires of Wire Harness if you want.
Or you can connect them to Terminal Strip.
Really, there are so many ways to do.
Here what I did with a Namco.
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v253/236/106/720471515/n720471515_604468_766.jpg
If you replacing the Hori PCB with something else, like a PCB from Controller, then it is cool to use Wire Harness.
Which ever the easiest I’m going with that.
Terminal strip’s probably the easiest way to hook the wire harness to the PCB.
No soldering needed for the stick or harness. Just like the T5 mod. Only concern is the space in the FS3 case. It’s pretty tight as it is…
Personally, I like QD’s better on the buttons in case they need to be replaced. Again, the issue is clearance within the existing case. You’d have to have ultra-short (1 inch?) wiring for QD’s and/or the PCB mounted on plastic pegs or something else nonconductive.
I think some have modified their FS3 sticks by adding “height” to it with additional plastic.
The weak point of that case has to be the metal bottom. At least the HRAP’s have a good 1/8 inch of plastic between the inner stick case bottom and the metal plate that screws into the bottom. Electrical shorts are a far greater possibility with the FS3 casing if that PCB isn’t kept separated from that metal bottom.
thanks for that? What are quick connects?