thanks so much it worked now to get the picture running smooth in wirecast
What kind of device to I need to stream PS3 via HDMI? I’ve tried using this HDMI to Component converter, which is purportedly HDCP 1.2 compliant, but all I get on the capture output is a blank screen even though the capture software detects that something is connected via component.
did you turn the switch on the converter from vga to component
edit: nvm your using a different one then me
There is no switch or VGA input/output on this device. One HDMI in, one component out. The indicator light turns on when I have HDMI connected, and my capture device can detect that something is hooked up via component, but no signal gets through.
I’ve heard that other people have used similar converters (HDCP 1.2) with success on PS3, so I’m wondering what’s up.
i just want to ask is there a reason y nobody uses wirecasts screen capture ? you just launch desktop presenter and change selection to screen region
Is your PS3 set to 720p?
That’s a really good question. I wasn’t aware that you could change it to screen region. I was always under the impression it always captured your desktop.
Yes. Here’s a summary of my situation. Any advice would be appreciated.
My 1st setup:
PS3 component out > Component splitter > …
Splitter output 1 > Component to VGA converter > Asus monitor VGA input
Splitter output 2 > Matrox MXO2 Mini
This setup works, but players say it lags. I defer to their judgement on this, as I do not trust my own and have no solid way to test it.
My 2nd setup:
PS3 HDMI out > HDMI splitter > …
Splitter output 1 > Asus monitor HDMI input
Splitter output 2 > HDMI to component converter > Matrox MXO2 Mini
This one doesn’t lag (I do have the means to test the HDMI splitter), but the HDMI to component converter does not pick up the signal, despite being HDCP compliant. The Matrox can detect that something is connected via component, but no picture is displayed. I did further testing with an Xbox 360 (which does not use HDCP during gameplay) and without the splitter involved (Xbox > converter > Matrox) and it still didn’t pick up a signal. After removing the converter entirely (Xbox > Matrox), thinks work fine, despite the screen resolution and framerate settings on all devices being constant in all tests (720p 60fps). So I guess this converter is junk.
So… What’s a good way to stream from PS3 when the monitors you’re using don’t have component inputs? Or is there a solid way for me to test the lag on the equipment in the 1st setup so that I know for certain I shouldn’t be using it? What do other people use? I’m starting to get tired of accumulating video hardware that I can’t really use.
SCPH DSF is more intuitive and low on resource usage
I have this hdmi-component converter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SFT3ZI/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=sr_1_3&qid=1315359420&sr=8-3
I haven’t tried it with my ps3 but it works with my 360. Other than that, my setup is the same as your second one except I use a hauppauge instead of matrox.
Hi everybody,
I’m AntiDazzle, the person who have tested the HD80E on Youtube.
I wonder why most of you looking too far for streaming video…
I just want to say to you that the AVerTV CAPTURE HD H727 (in Europe)/ AVerTV HD DVR C027* (in USA) is able to stream throught HDMI by passing HDCP.
** AVerTV CAPTURE HD is an AVerTV HD DVR with a digital tuner integred*
To do an HDMI capture with theses cards, you have to use first an older drivers like the 1.21.86.21 for a 32 bits system or the 1.21.64.21 for a 64 bits system then you laucnh your streaming software and select “BDA secondary analog” then after that, you launch “AVermedia Center” and select the HDMI channel to valid the handcheck.
After the handcheck, HDMI input will be displayed in the first software who have select the card.
With the same trick, you can capture HDMI video from the PS3.
Look this video of mine under another name:
Sorry for my bad english, hope to still understandeable ^^
- I can confirm the perfect of the HD80E for playing without lag and record over HDCP.
I will make a little test to stream over Xsplit with that card.
Have a nice day everyone 
Edit:
I confirm the perfect works of the HD80E for stream PS3 via HDMI on justin TV:
http://nsa28.casimages.com/img/2011/09/27/110927023510777429.png
Streaming at 4000kbps for a 1280x720 (x264/ fastest/ quality 6 with XSplit at 25fps).
Edit 2:
Streaming made with a Laptop ACER Aspire 5315 under XP Family SP3
Intel Celeron MonoCore at 1,86GHz
Chipset Accelerator Intel Graphics 965 (8Mo)
2Go RAM
HDD SATA 120Go 54rpm
I know some people here also use the C027 with a desktop set and I actuallysuggested and linked to your video of the HD80E after seeing it. I would have tried to buy this but I have no money and am not really sure where to get it. Thank you for showing that it works with xsplit
Picked up one of these and I still have the same exact issue. The Matrox detects a component input but nothing is displayed.
I don’t even have a TV with component inputs so I can’t test whether it’s the Matrox or the converters that are the problem in this setup.
EDIT: Okay, I was able to test out my stuff on one of the venue’s HDTVs in the back. These converters appear to be working fine. It seems that the Matrox just can’t pick up their output for whatever reason.
This fucking sucks.
Anyone have any insight on using USB headsets rather than 3.5mm jacks? Is the quality the same/better/or worse?
Quality is dependent on the headset, many headsets come in both 3.5mm and USB variants with the same features and quality. USB generally is more expensive than the 3.5mm counterpart while many higher end headsets tend to be usb.
Most PC’s can only handle one incoming mic signal so most of the time USB is preferred.
EDIT: The following post was, as FunkyP has pointed out, bad information for using with standard PC headsets. It is left unedited in it’s entirety, as the considerations brought forth are useful if you’re using a dynamic microphone/something else that will work more appropriately with a mixer. ::END EDIT::
I’d say it depends on your setup. If your audio path is primarily digital (say, you’re capturing HDMI audio), then USB is certainly easier to work with, because you’re going to have to mix in software anyway. However, if you are capturing audio via analog, or if you’ve got a capture device with a significant amount of latency to it (say, an HD1212), mixing the audio in hardware (thus using analog mic’s and a small mixer) is probably the way to go. Analog means you will need a small mixer of some sort, which is just another piece of hardware to worry about, so if you can manage digital (USB) that could actually save some money… but you lose the flexibility that analog provides.
I know a lot of people (myself included) opt for analog, even when digital is available as an option, simply because an analog mixer is easier to adjust on the fly – If you need to make an announcement, you can cut the game audio instantly by the turn of a knob or flick of a linear pot. In software, you either have to switch to your mixing program, or bind a hotkey to do it (worth doing)… but it’s still a bit frustrating. Any other level adjustments (say someone adjusts and is now further away from the mic, or you get another, louder shoutcaster on) are similarly simple.
So yeah, for a mobile setup, or one on the cheap, you might be better off with a USB solution… but if you can afford an extra device, you get more flexibility with analog. Also note that an analog mic can be “turned into” a USB one with a fairly cheap USB ADC, but the reverse is usually not true. Sometimes you can find a headset that actually is an analog mic with a USB ADC bundled in; that might be the way to go, so you can experiment with both options to find your preferred method.
We’re talking about headsets here, most microphone headsets cannot run into a mixer, USB headsets solve that problem because you can run multiple USB headsets into a PC, but not with 3.5mm mics.
Sure you can run headsets into a mixer; if it’s a single 3.5mm TRRS connector (like a phone headset, for instance) you’ll need an adapter to TRS stereo + TS mic connectors, but most computer headsets are TRS+TS anyway. If your mixer only takes 1/4" jacks, you’ll need an adapter to that as well; if it only takes RCA, different adapter. Sometimes you may also need to extend the length of one of the cables, as well; it depends on where in the audio path you want to monitor (I usually monitor the master mix for simplicity’s sake, as it’s right there on the mixer). It’s certainly workable; I do this myself with a couple Razer headsets for some of my own recording stuff as it is.
Another thing to keep in mind is that, if you mix in hardware, unless you do some weird stuff (split to a secondary card, or pan all game audio to one side and all commentary to the other), you’re pretty much SOL if you want to remove the commentary track later, or adjust relative levels. It’s all trade-offs, but lots of people find that hardware mixing does allow for more flexibility and less headaches (once you get good with it) for live scenarios.
Running a PC headset into a mixer will get you a impedance mismatch. Using adapters without any kind of transformer to level out the signals is a good way to get either really bad audio or fried hardware.
You know what, you’re right. I’ve been using such a hodgepodge of equipment, and I’m still fairly new to the audio stuff, that my setup actually isn’t just adapters; been using a secondary “mixer” that was designed for PC mic’s (it was part of a POS podcast recording bundle) to mix down the multiple microphones into a single line out into my mixer. It must be designed for PC electret microphones; I’m now glad I didn’t try to eliminate that piece from my equation. Going to have to experiment with alternative solutions. Thanks for pointing this out; you taught me real good. I’m a digital circuits guy, all this analog stuff is a foreign language to me still. 
TL;DR: Please, ignore the scrub; he knows not of his nubishness.
–UnderWing