Thanks again, Rei. You are a Godsend in this thread.
This thread reminds me that I seriously need to buy a new digital camera. =\
This may be a stupid question, but exactly how do you go about doing something like this? Iām intrigued.
That light sculptures stuff is coolā¦ Iāve noticed them on other photography threads on different forums. I know it should involve a slower shutter speed, but how do you not get a blur of yourself in the photo?
You just have to set the camera to a long exposure. You can do this on some regular point and shoot cameras, too. If you set it for a long enough exposure (30 seconds or more), and make sure you donāt stay in one place too long, you wonāt show up in the picture.
This is how I did it:
- wait till night
- Use a tripod
- set f/stop to 11 or more
- Use a low ISO setting
- set shutter speed to 30 seconds or higher
- use a timer to start the shot
- use a flashlight to make your sculpture, but keep moving so you donāt show up
Tip: because I find it hard to write backwards, I held the flashlight like a pen but with my back to the camera and the light facing my direction so I could write regularly.
I saw the technique in a UK Photography mag. They made some cool stuff, like at an actual halfpipe they made some stick figures skateboarding.
I suck at art though, so I didnāt get good results. Iāll try again this week. If anyone else tries it out, post up some pics!
yo!
i didnt know we had this
heres some of my work
i like your in studio work.
thanks
its a bitch doing that stuff when u have like 18 units - parttime job - crazy photo assignments - being brokeā¦but i wouldnt want it any other way man
im digging the end result of my studio stuff
but i still have alot more to learn
SF back then was what i put my time and energy into
now that im olderā¦my craft is where its at
Damn Fuson!! You have seriously leveled up. From us babbling about meaty combos at 4 a.m. to doing some serious good work. Congrats man.
Derek Daniels
i know son i know!!
when im done with school and i get a real job ill be back up on the scene omni
BTW can i run mirc on a macbook?
So, I have another flash questionā¦
Iām using a 550ex and a Canon 20D. Do you need the STE2 wireless transmitter to use the 550ex as a wireless master, or is there another way? I only have one flashā¦ Alternately, if the transmitter is the only way (which is kind of expensive for me) to do it wirelessly, isnāt there some accessory I can use to take it off the camera (albeit wired)? Thanks in advanceā¦
On a side note, I just read some pages on DIY light tents, and I think Iām going to try to ghetto rig one so I can take pics of my baby daughter. Iām kind of excited to see how ghetto I can get with this.
I think that you got your verbage mixed up there. The master is the thing that controls the other flashes. The slave is the one that gets controlled. So, you have a few options. I will list them in order of price, (high to low)
-
Buy a pair of Pocket Wizards.
http://www.pocketwizard.com/ -
Buy any other canon flash that works in slave mode and use your 550 as a master.
-
Buy a STE2, and use your 550 as a slave.
-
Buy a TTL extension cable.
http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CF0024/ -
Buy an Optical Slave and a PC to Flash Hotshoe Adapter and use your pop-up flash to trip the Optical Slave.
http://flashzebra.com/opticalslaves/0050.shtml
http://flashzebra.com/hotshoes-shoes/0065.shtml -
Buy a PC cable and a PC to Flash Hotshoe Adapter, and use the PC port on your 20D.
http://flashzebra.com/hotshoes-shoes/0065.shtml
http://flashzebra.com/fivemetersync/index.shtml
I recommend that you do number 6, because it is cheap and reliable, but it means that you canāt use TTL.
Full disclosure, I use 2 and 5. I have x2 580, a 430, and x2 420s, so I can use either 580 as master and have up to 4 off-camera slaves. I use this for most quick set-ups, because it will still work in p-mode with ttl. However, the canon system doesnāt do well outdoors, so for outdoors and more complicated setups, I have two Alien Bees (w/vagabond) and several Nikon SB26s. The Alien Bees and the SB26s have optical slaves, so I can run a PC cable to one strobe and trigger the rest using the optical slaves.
Let me know if you have any questions about any of the methods above, and I will answer to the best of my ability.
Thanks again, Rei.
5 was interesting to me, but I noticed it said that the only EX model it will work on is the 580, so thatās a no go for me. Iām interested in 6, but I wanted to ask, how much am I losing out when I donāt use TTL? If TTL makes a huge difference, Iāll go with 4.
Actually, the optical slave will only plug directly into the 580EXII, and not any of the other EX flashes. However, the optical slave will plug into a PC to Flash Hotshoe Adapter that you can put on the bottom of your 550, which is why I posted both of those links under 5.
Realize that 1, 5 and 6 all donāt use TTL, and 2, 3 and 4 use TTL.
Also, using TTL vs not using TTL is like debating the differences between pad and arcade stick. TTL will fire two flashes that are milliseconds apart. The first flash is so that the camera can meter the light and tell the flashes what to do, and the second flash happens when the shutter opens. So then the flash output is automagically dialed in by your camera. You can go plus or negative on the output of the flash using the dial on your camera, but other than that, you donāt have fine tune control of the output of each flash.
So, in my case, I use TTL for simple p-mode shots that I know the camera is not going to mess up. However, when I need to get more precise, and complicated with what light is going where, I move to non-TTL with better strobes (like the alien bees).
I wouldnāt say that one was better, just that they are different.
Soā¦i minor in photography.
i know i still kinda sux but, i wanna know what u guys think of this pic.:wonder:
i would crop it tighter. cuz the backdrop really doesnt do too much for the photo. i can see how youre trying to use the elements of the graffiti on the wall but then you dont use the entire wall either. its alright.
beauty dish used
bathroom gave good reflection
a little bit of ambient light
hot model
good times
+1. I agree 100%
I like this photo, but the model seems to be too bright.
So I just go t back from the JACC state conference, which is basically a collection of various workshops and on-the-spot competitions for all community college journalism programs in the state of California. I get close to no sleep the three days I was there, but I did manage to snag fourth place in the on-the-spot feature photo competition and an honorable mention for sports. Photos are pretty āmehā, but I write some pretty decent AP style captions, which were also judged.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2102/2394643333_ca278e33f0_m.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2393/2394649759_83f078314c_m.jpg
Here are some pics I took at another bboy event. I made one of the variations of āa better bounce cardā and it worked pretty well for the most part. Still need to mess with it some more, but Iām still pretty happy with the resultsā¦ the room wasnāt very well lit and the ceilings were very high, so if I didnāt make this homemade accessory, the shots would have come out a lot worseā¦ Especially since most of these were taken from a pretty good distance away.
This one came out really dark, but I was really far away for this one. I adjusted the flash for the next one.
And now, my favorite shot of the weekend:
Constructive criticism welcome. I know some of the shots could have been framed better, but it was hard to get a good spot to take shots without blocking someone behind me, especially with the huge flash accessory. Thanks!
shit i took this past weekend
a band called the mattson two
they were playing for the opening reception of the andy warhol photo collection at cal state fullertonās grad building
and then some OC debauchery at memphis bar in costa mesa
