Easy access is great. I have all my instruments on wall hangers currently. And, as long as the thing is sturdy, it’s hard to imagine what can go wrong with a guitar stand. The only optin I can even imagine is the slide-over clip to keep the guitar from being able to fall forward.
Figured as much. I’m just gonna order one and be done with it. :tup:
Dont know if this has been asked before but does anyone know where to get tabs for the Guilty Gear XX instrumentals?
Its for my friend.
Thanks
You can find alot of them there. Otherwise, I think you can find Guitar Pro versions of some of the songs on Ultimate Guitar.
If you can’t I could find a way to send you the .gp4 versions of Holy Orders and Writhe In Pain.
uppa, need a real amp :sad:
Ok so after years of playing solid state amps, I’ve finally gotten myself a nice tube head. I went from an Ibanez Toneblaster head (with a Boss super-overdrive for crunch) to a Peavy Valveking. So far, it sounds pretty good without the Boss pedal, which is great, since I’ve been using it to make shitty amps sounds crunchy for far too long.
I’m under the impression that tube amps can be modified in certain ways, and I was wondering if it was possible to add more gain stages (I’m assuming more preamp tubes) to this head (it has four, whereas the 6505 has six IIRC), and how costly the procedure would be to do so. If anything, do any of you guys know a decent way to add crunch to tone without sacrificing low end or resulting in a fuzzy sound (ala the super overdrive)?
I own the Valveking half stack and have for a while. As far as MORE gain I have no idea why you would want to ruin a perfectly balanced head like that, and it would take a lot of ugly modding. FYI most tube amps have 4 tubes, some use rectifiers though.
If you want the “box of bee’s” tone nothing is going to get it but a 5150 (which you can find for much less than a 6505 and it’s the same if not better.) Also this head has 2 preamp tubes, and 4 power amp tubes, you might have been confused there.
If you wanted to add even more crunch (I’m not sure why it’s not going good for you now? It has more than enough if you learn the controls dampening/Class A/Class A/B knob in the back). Remember to a tube amp in general sounds the best cranked, (peavey’s tube amps probably sound the best at lower volumes, compared to others).
I’d say try a simple OD in front, see if that helps. I don’t know how much more “crunch” you want though, to the point of ridiculous?
:rock:
My amps: Marshall Valvestate vs102r and vs265r
FX : Zoom g2.1u , getting that Boss GT-8 Soon tho
Guitar : Washburn X-50 PROFE
http://washburn.com/products/electrics/x/x50profe.aspx
Not in a band atm 
Nice thread.
Anyone need any help in shredding let me know high five
Help me out, dude. I need shred chops.
In other news, I just priced out stuff for this bass mod project i"m about to get back on…I’m looking at $390ish because I’m going way over the top with this ish. Swapping all the chrome tuners, bridge, knobs, and control plate for black, stripping the black paint and refinishing in purple/black/silver, engraving the neck plate, getting new pickups, adding an Audere preamp. It’s going to be a beast when I get into it.
Thanks for the quick reply. Would you mind giving me a quick rundown of the dampening controls? I just have the class A/B knob all the way up for obvious reasons, but I’m not all that sure what to do with the dampening.
I like the amp a lot. The tone is great without the OD pedal (would prefer not to use it in this case because it would kill the warmth and add unwanted fuzz), but it feels a little weak for some reason (to be fair I haven’t yet had the opportunity to play this head on anything higher than like 2 or so). I still get damn good chug from it, and the sustain will be much better once I change my strings, so it’s not a huge complaint. I was mostly asking out of curiosity because I’m completely new to tube amps.
Also, would you recommend the Valveking cab to go with it? I’m stuck with my previous Ibanez cab for the moment.
dampening can make or break this head, so can the wrong settings in the back, may I ask why it’s on full a/b? Also when you do get a chance to dime it out (remember, this is a tube amp, it loves to be pushed, going to full out 10 isn’t going to hurt it at all as long as it’s not instant) you will see how “weak” it sounds haha. I have the cabinet, and I like it, not to say other cabs wouldn’t be good as well. Remember at low levels, don’t be afraid to max out your tone settings such as full on treb or bass or what have you, sounds corny loud but at low volumes on a tube head it’s one of the ways to coax out a good tone. If you have a “true” OD pedal then all it would do is “boost” the signal from your guitar a bit to overdrive it, I’ve heard some people like it to get more “crunch” but my fave bands include meshuggah/in flames/opeth and it gets more than heavy enough for me. I won’t “diss” your cabinet, but speakers have a TON to do with sound, obviously, response and lows being tight and highs keeping nice can also make a great head sound pretty pathetic.
Remember to hit your “boost” on at low volumes as well, helps give it a little more drive.
As far as dampening, just make sure at low volumes they aren’t any lower than 2 oclock imo, or else it sounds like you are playing through a pillow. They are designed to help with different speaker types, fine tuning the lows and highs, think of it as a more advanced version of a guitars simple tone knob. One for lows, one for highs.
I’ve had people ask if I was playing a 5150, no lie, it’s an amazing amp and worth far more then what they ask. I think change your strings, maybe it needs a retube (I doubt it) and dime it out and you will literally “feel” the difference haha.
I can’t play my bass (or any bass for that matter) with a pick for the life of me :X
What’s wrong with me? My brother took to a pick right away but if I try and use one I end up looking at my picking hand more than my fretting hand.
Good thing I like using my fingers more anyway shrug
Do you play guitar? (with a pick) Does your brother? Main thing is just practice and repetition. I’m the same way playing fingerstyle on a guitar. I end up looking at my plucking hand most of the time because it’s just not comfortable yet. I’m trying to force myself into it, and having mixed results. (it’d probably help if I wasn’t trying to play intricate Kaki King stuff complete with two-handed tapping.)
No I play 95% bass with some fingerstyle acoustic guitar mixed in, but when I try to play either with a pick it goes downhill. Fingers just feel more intuitive to me. Even when I’ve got a bunch of fingers going on at once on an acoustic, I don’t have to look.
Modding amps is both risky and expensive–unnecessarily so, in my opinion. It’s a trend that became popularized by Eddie Van Halen (who, incidentally, was lying when he claimed his amps were modded, sending countless aspiring tone freaks on a wild goose chase).
We now live in the post-Van Halen era, when it is not really necessary to slap together your own Frankenstein guitar or tinker with your amplifiers to get them to sound the way you want them to. Just about anything you can think of that you can get through modding can be bought off the shelf at much lower risk to your rig.
If you’re really dissatisfied with your sound, crank the amp all the way up and see if it helps. Playing a tube amp on 2 is like driving a muscle car on the highway in 2nd gear–it’s not going to feel right and you’re going to feel gypped on what should be an exhilarating experience. If you do that and you’re still not satisfied, sell it off for something else.
If you find that the amp is just too loud when it’s cranked, look into buying a power attenuator. It’ll reduce the life of your tubes a bit, but it’ll enable you to run the amp wide open and control the SPL at the same time.
To address your other question, more preamp tubes can definitely slather on the fuzz, but the real tone is coming from the power amp stage. That’s why tube amps sound best when they’re cranked.
Hi, do you own a Valveking?
Also the current lowest cost attenuator is almost the cost of a new valveking head, if he’s in a budget (like most guitarists I know) then thats probably not an option for him.
No, but these are rules of thumb that apply to most tube amps. I don’t imagine the Valveking is any different.
If he’s on a budget. I figured it’s better to make an unfeasible suggestion than to leave him without a piece of information that he might find useful.
Thanks for the help, guys. I’m gonna stick with it as is because I realize it will likely sound much better in a band environment, which is why I bought it in the first place.
Parry: Yeah, I play mostly melodic death/doom stuff, so it’s not like I need crazy crunch or anything. I must have had the wrong impression of what the A/B knob does though, because I figured the sound would be crunchier/heavier with it left up. I’m not entirely sure what it does, so feel free to correct me.
I personally don’t have any experience with them, but I’ve only heard good things about Weber attenuators and they’re pretty reasonable. Just something for Azagtoth to consider.