about 7 psi nets around 90 hp, that’s all I know or heard.
Sounds about right.
Wait a minute, new axles?
on most cars you need to buy upgraded something when adding more than 40 lbs of tq. a car has a weak point. some cars are over engineered ( looking at you Germany and US) for the addition of more power.
the 370 axles and transmission break with stock power. same happens to gtr and its drive line with 30-40 lbs of tq.
the 5.7 challenger r/t amd charger require better axles when adding something like a supercharger.
what a lot of peoe fail to understand is that with moe power you need better equipment than oem.
those 2.6 sec gtr cost what the car costs and you double that price because moat of the car has to be rebuilt or issued new parts.
Yeah, most people don’t take into account that you must upgrade other parts to support other modifications. When you start modding, it becomes a slippery slope, since you end up modding the whole car so that it can run reliably.
I’ve never heard of anyone changing their axles. Iunno it’s not like I’m an expert. The FRS looks like it can be redlined pretty well.
Yeah, I have never heard anybody needing to upgrade the FR-S axles yet. It may or may not have sturdy axles for increased torque.
a quick google search shows increased power leads to broken axles. a decrease in height compounds the problem…
rule of thumb is that axles are usually the firat to go with increased power. unless its a pos nissan. then eveything breaks.
if you consider the tq characteristics of this car, its obvious that the axles could present a major issue when increasing actual power. this car doesnt produce tq or power at all.
The idea that the car does not produce much torque is a likely sign that the axles are likely a weak link. From my research of the Lancer Evolution, axles are a 500 dollar upgrade, and that does not include installation fee.
you shouldnt even buy that pos Lancet because after 70 mph a geo is faster. it has horrible milage that a 6.4 hemi does it better… and launching two or more times ina. row eats your clutch and could break your tranny.
adding any more power to that car results I. have t to upgrade clutch, transmission, drive line, axles, etc.
Yeah, I am actually thinking of getting a used C5 Z06 as well. How much do those go for? That car upgraded to 500whp is more than satisfying. A C5 Z06 is already a super car in stock form. I agree that most American sports cars have overbuilt/strong hard parts that are meant for more power and torque.
Edit: Wow. A used C5 Z06 can be had for less than a brand new FR-S. Man, the C5 Z06 seems to be a no-brainer choice.
Okay, I have question about the standard C6 Corvette. Would it be better to choose that or the C5 Z06?
Man, a C5 Z06 can be had for just 15K. Holy shit!
This 01’ Z06 goes for a smooth 30k. Non Z06’s go for about 10k less.
Man, a 30K super car is where it’s at, but that is not within my budget. I would get that if I can afford it. I’m sure a good quality supercharger installed onto a C5 Z06 will equal it to a C6 Z06 in terms of overall performance.
nope z06 c6 handles in ways the z05 wished it could.
stock to stock
Yeah, I wouldn’t really know, but thanks for the insight. I have not really followed the Z06 that much since it was always beyond my budget. I know that the C6 Z06 has an all aluminum body. The C5 is mostly steel, correct?
I don’t really mind that the C6 is better. The C5 is more than enough for my performance wants in stock form. With a 3,115 pound curb weight, 425hp, and 1.03g on the skidpad makes this car ideal for me. Add a supercharger, and you will get up to 535 “wheel” horsepower. Of course I’m not just going to add a supercharger, I am also going to install a highly tuned suspension that is tuned to handle the extra power. I doubt it would it be hard to surpass the C6 in terms of performance with additional and careful modding to the C5.
With less overall money spent, I will have a car that is superior to the C6.
well remember that the max potential is going to be great or than that of a heavily modified last gen car. in general Zarga, c7 stingrays performs really hood, almost c6 z06 good (1st stage)
also @facemeandbebroken or any other individual with honda experience regarding boost applications.
I want to make a fun daily driver (ima keep it for a long time) and I am looking at the rsx 2005 2006 base, or prelude last gen. i am curious as to which one handles boost better. I would assume the low rev k20a3 would handle ir better. im also need to know of possible drive train upgrades that are needed when boosting these cars. transmissions, axles, possible differentials, clutch, etc.
the most id want is 220-240 to the wheels (any more seems redundant for a fwd car). the more the better, and if I can have more power than that safely that’d be cool. but id like to k ow what the stock chassy can handle safely without compromising safety and stability.
thanks
I would imagine that the rsx would handle it a tad bit better, but the 5th gen prelude has some viable options as well. Why a rsx base and not a type s?
Because shelling out 2 to 4 grand more isn’t worth it for boost applications. Usually the Type S are ran harder, no biggie for me, but that means more mileage. So the suspension for the Type S needs to be replaced due to the high mileage, so why shell more for a suspension that needs to be fixed regardless. Although I think the Type S has a differential. Another issue is the introduction of the 6 speed for base RSX, stock 5 spd RSX do 0-60 mph in about 6.8 sec, while the Type S always does it in around 6.0 sec. But the 6 speed RSX base 6 spd manual does it in 6.3. Lastly, because i’m looking to do forced induction, if I introduce boost, it makes no sense to buy an engine that revs to about 8000 rpm, because boost lowers the over RPM’s.
Granted, the Type S would make for a superior N/A vehicle than the base RSX due to the heads on the K20a2 if I want a K20AX motor in there.
So IDK what to do. The base RSX is the “cheaper” route, but I always prefer the reliability, aesthetics, and instantaneous power of a N/A. I could buy the base RSX, and then use the K24ZX or K24A2 series engines, but they aren’t cheap. Cost as much as boost (maybe not), but it’s N/A power.
NVMD, was running through the finances, and total cost. It would end up costing around 12K, if not more. That’s half the price of a Focus ST, or a Genesis 2.0T, or a used C6/C5 z05. It wouldn’t make sense to drop that much money on a car like that when I could be patient and buy something faster and more reliable. I guess keeping it stock would be the sensible thing to do.
Ermm… axles? No, not a chance on this car. That usually happens when you put someone insane on a Miata or small sports cars that weren’t made for performance. Your suspension might crack the chassis so you might need to reinforce it on the FR-S but it’s more than likely already reinforced. With all the testing I would have to check the integrity first hand before I could say for certain.
As for fun daily fwd, get a Golf, just expect electronics problems. If you buy more recent if you can get an automatic it’s going to be more efficient.
eww, Golf looks so nasty, and it’s overpriced. Maybe I have prejudice against VW in general…
But that’s what I’ve read, folks breaking axels on FRS’s that are boosted.