Spark/SparkCE Optical Joystick Sensor for JLF

I just got these in and couldn’t wait to put up pictures. I’ll be assembling it and testing it over the next coupla days, but this is just too pretty to not post. BatchPCB did a kickass job of cutting to spec, and it fits in the JLF like a dream, even the four holes the little stubbys poke through.

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/6703/flashpcbxv2.jpg

Since its looking like the DC-DC converter wont be on the flash itself, the final model will be even simpler by far. Im still trying to fit it in, though.

niiiiiiiiiiiiiiice.

As far as a DC-DC converter, you can use a 4004 or similar IC.

The only datasheet I can find for a ‘4004’ chip dealing with DC is a PWR-4004. If that’s what you mean, then I can’t use it. The chip is over 1" x 1", and has a minimum input voltage of 4.5v. If this isnt the one you’re thinking of, link me a datasheet and I’ll definitely check it out.

err

LM78M05.

http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM78M05.html

Count me in for a few of these.
Looking superb!

Input voltage: 5v < x < 15v. Doesnt do what we need it to do. We need to kick up low PSX voltage of 3.x up to 5v.

Woot!

Well, let’s start with the bad news. Somewhere along the way, I got my directions mixed up. Up is down, left is right, and visa versa for both. Not a big problem for now, since putting it in 180 degrees makes it perfectly usable, but something I need to tweak on the pcb.

The good news: It works. I’ll be a sonuvabitch, it works. The measurements are slick and pristine and it slides into the JLF like Sanwa made it themselves.

The minor bad news: I get one to two directions that ‘stick’. Im not certain yet, and will test some more tomorrow, but I think it is being caused by the pcb flexing from the pressure it is under, especially the 5 pin connector. I dont have a 90 degree connector like normal JLF or flash pcb’s use, so the one I have goes straight up and bumps into the clear restrictor. Getting a 90 degree connector, either by removing one from one of my JLF pcbs, or waiting for the one MKL is supposed to send me, may fix this, in which case we are VERY VERY happy. Which leads us to…

The awesome news: The JLF is an amazingly well engineered piece of machinery, snugly accepting and holding pcb’s in a range of thicknesses. This range happens to include PCB + IC socket + IC thickness. I know I’ve said recently that just having something thick wouldn’t be clean or reliable enough. Testing it in my hand proved me wrong, and also that Sanwa engineers are some smart MFers. I’m feeling very confident that 2 IC’s plus sockets on opposite corners will make the whole thing perfectly solid when installed, and leave the LED’s and detectors safe from harm. The 45 degree display of the LED’s and the 15(?) degree acceptance range of the phototransistors means that I should not need any kind of partition between parts…ln english, there is a good chance I can do this without a plastic housing. That would drop the price of the kits dramatically.

Edit: Dramatically over the cost of a flash+DC-DC converter piece, and about the same as a flash+housing would have cost. Since the second PCB will likely be the DC-DC converter, pretty much all of them would have to have one.

Dang, once you fingure out all the kinks man, I’ll definitely order some.

If you can get this figured out before Evo, I will love you forever(no homo).

I would love you too (with homo if need be)

lol…Laurie we would should make deal & get shiz load these!! lol

Great Work!

Honestly when do you think you’ll get these up and ready for sale? Because you’ve hit the goldmine, I’ll take 3 outright once you start selling them.

The biggest delays so far have been with shipping, especially the pcb’s. Those two from BatchPCB took fucking forever to show up, and within a day of getting them, I’ve got them tested and revisions ready to go for another prototype. Im prolly gonna be kicking in the extra bucks for faster delivery, and get the next protos from the pcb house I will probably get the large run made from, so I can get a feel for the pcb’s they make, and their ability to cut the pcb to the right shape.

If I can go without the plastic housing, then this could be done soon. My only worry is that it wont feel ‘professional’ or worth their money without the housing. At this point, if I’m right about the IC + socket being solid enough, then the housing would be purely cosmetic. Look at this side-by-side:
http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/3141/flashcomparejo5.jpg
Which one in your gut feels more valuable? My gut says the left, even though my brain knows the one on the right has a DC-DC converter on it, and is functionaly identical in every other way.

When do I honestly think they’ll be ready?
IF I decide to go without a housing,
IF there are no mistakes in the next proto pcb,
IF there are no delays in getting the parts,
(those are some big if’s)
About two months/end of May.

No doubt man! HYPE! I’ll definetly order at least 2 - and other players around me will most likely follow suit which could lead to around 10 or so. I hope this works out for you and everybody can support you to keep it up! What a great thing…

Why not drop the voltage going to the rumble motors?

One thing, will I be able to use the HRAP PCB?

has a price been confirmed or suggested?

cant wait for this…woot woot

Too unreliable; the voltage from the center pin is the only one I can count on being there, since the rumble voltage has its own set of fuses, and may not be given power by a converter. The center pin HAS to be there.
Anyone that wants to wire it up from the other voltage pin can certainly do so, and would require nothing more than a few diodes in series to drop the voltage. I want a single pin on the flash that can properly handle either 5v or 3.x volts. No worries, the max chips Im testing (731/751) seem to do the trick nicely.

Lots of suggestions from people in the beginning of the thread, but nothing from me on a price yet. I wouldnt be going through all of this unless I was pretty damn sure I could beat the suggestions given in the beginning, but other than that I can’t confirm a price yet; too much still uncertain.

Sure. I’ll be putting one in my HRAP2 as soon as I can, and will post up a tutorial on exactly that.