Take your JLF, disassemble it, pop the covers off of the micro switches and take out the small red tabs. Put the whole thing back together and there you go. That’s exactly how this should feel.
Don’t need to remove the Actuators of Microswitches.
Just take out the whole Joystick PCB and assemble Joystick without Microswitches or PCB.
Yeah that works too, but aesthetically if you’d like to judge by how it would look fully “assembled” even though it’s not much different, it’s not a bad idea to remove the actuators either. Also it makes the stick feel “complete” since the gate doesn’t have a little room to wiggle.
That’s amazing stuff Toodle’s. I’ll have to invest in one in case my Ascii PCB ever decides to die.
im in for 1 for sure just to see how it feels… if i like it i’d be in for more.
i would hope the power soldering would be kinda easy though.
it’d be nice if someone would figure out how to get one to work w/ a paewong pcb (as i just soldered one up earlier today and it was pie easy)
Digital, might want to re-think wearing that around the neck, especially if you happen to be white and bald, unless you are dressed up like my avatar, lol.
would this fit in the Madcatz JLF clone?
Just a suggestion if you are going to print out a bunch of PCBs Will the holes off the side be JLF harness compatible and in the same order? I have access to 90 degree pin headers and would like to have the same order for color coding as the JLF so I would not have to get a battery and multimeter to figure out the joystick orientation.
True.
Nope. I’ve learned my lesson about kits; its just a bad idea.
Uh, show me any other shape that will fit into the JLF.
That depends on the pcb you use it with, and has nothing to do with this board. Cthulhu or Chimp with screw terminals: No soldering.
Which part is confusing? The 5 pin connector is the exact same as the JLF. The three pin connector has one wire that connects to power from the USB. If you can solder a JLF header to the paewong, then soldering a power cord as well would be a cinch.
I’m not sure, but I would imagine it would since its a direct JLF rip off. However with the washer problem present on most, it’d put the pcb in serious risk of damage. You’d be putting a valuable stereo in a some POS Tercel, or a diamond in a dime store setting. I’d really have to recommend putting it in a real JLF.
Yes and yes. Pins already match the JLF, and are spaced 2.5mm apart so the exact same JST connector used in the JLF will connect perfectly, and without rewiring.
That housing looks really sweet! If everything is successful, I’m definitely in for 4 of them!
By the looks of the housing, could you play without the JLF gate and use the housing as a round gate? Not that I would, I love square gates, just an idea. Also if this all works and gets some sort of release is it going to be a limited run or a production thing like the cthulhu?
The angle on the housing would probably wear down/damage the actuator. I wouldn’t recommend.
The actuator isn’t affected by this because it isn’t making contact with the housing. A square or octagon gate would be placed over the pcb’s shell.
im just joshing dog
Awesome! Looking forward to this being released and may buy 3 of these!
PCB was tweaked to remove the DC-DC power fluff and use surface mount components. Betas ordered, should arrive in 2-3 weeks.
I’m pretty sure this project will go under the name of Spark, and the boards I ordered have a yellow soldermask to them; I hope to end up with a matching yellow housing when they’re done. I think it’d be nice to have spark in it be visible and obvious when you get a peek inside the stick.
I touch the Toodles Spark.
Spark sounds like a good name!
awesome name! toodles, you’re doing a great service to the community 
Can’t wait for it !!!