Plugged it into my ps4 while already being in training mode and my character just starts jumping for no reason. Plugged it out and back in same problem. Thought maybe the joystick was acting up so I disconnected it from the stick. Still jumping. It jumps in LS and DP mode but stops in RS. I made a video to show it. Has anyone else had a problem similar to this? Hope there is a way to fix this bullshit. I don’t wanna have to wait all over again for a new one smh.
Swap the micro switch PCB or the whole joystick with your other TE2 over there, if the problem is the same then it’s most likely the TE2’s PCB and you need to exchange or return it.
Also check the microswitches maybe somethings stuck in the up direction one.
He already said he disconnected the joystick, so why would he check the microswitches? Are you saying the joystick was still sending inputs while disconnected?
yes. i disconnected the joystick from the stick. i even showed it in the video and it was still jumping. it has to be the pcb cause it jumps in LS and DS mode but not in RS.
i disconnected the stick at 0:16… i agree on it probably being a pcb issue. just annoyed now cause i now i gotta wait for another one and im selling my old stick so i have nothing to use smh.
@DARKHOKAGE
You said that you unplugged the joystick. Just a question: did you try unplugging the other side of the cable too, assuming it is NOT soldered down? Where the cable attaches to the PCB, not on the joystick end, but on the other end?
Can you try that?
Keep in mind the TE sticks (and the special edition VS edition) were when madcatz still made great sticks. Their quality went down when the TE2 came out. I guess this is around the time that one longtime madcatz employee who also posted on SRK finally left the company…
The only real beef I had with the TE sticks was the USB cable being soldered or hotglued to the PCB instead of using a proper JST connector, and the JLF’s case side mounting bracket being welded to the casing instead of screwed in (even though the JLF’s own mounting plate screws into that piece anyhow).
(then again, Qanba used raised dimples for their version of mounting the JLF’s plate to the case, so whatever).
clean, just action buttons on face plate, looks badass even in stock condition, plenty of palm space, easy to mod, hex screw top access, easily available plexis and art templates, and even panels with different layouts, like noir & mk
also forced hori to step up their game, and we got the hrap V series, the VLX and the FE, and also brought more competition in to the stick market like qanba/eightarc and omni, joytron etc